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pw50 issues

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I recently bought a pw for my daughter, I think its a 98, not sure. 10-14-98 is stamped on both rims, could this be the year? I ordered piston and rings for it just to be safe and in process of doing a tune up. The old piston and rings look ok I think but going to change it anyway. The head and cylinder also look ok but have a carbon build up. Whats the best way to clean off the carbon? I read in a few other posts guys talking about honing the cylinder. Do i need to do this if im putting in a standard size piston.?? Before I started taking it apart my daughter was riding it and it likes to run on choke only, carb issues I would guess. Oh, the transmission/crank case looks like it had a mixture of trans fluid and regular oil, whats recomended for this, gear oil,10w-30 or trans fluid. Sorry for all the questions. Im just trying to make sure this bike is squared away before we take it to the track. Thanks

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Hi us2b,

I will try and answer some of your questions.

I recently bought a pw for my daughter, I think its a 98, not sure. 10-14-98 is stamped on both rims, could this be the year?

I doubt that is the year of your bike. Look at the steering head of the frame. It should??? list the year there, not positive though.

I ordered piston and rings for it just to be safe and in process of doing a tune up. The old piston and rings look ok I think but going to change it anyway. The head and cylinder also look ok but have a carbon build up. Whats the best way to clean off the carbon?

Carb cleaner and a soft brush maybe even steal wool, will be your best friend.

I read in a few other posts guys talking about honing the cylinder. Do i need to do this if im putting in a standard size piston.??

Yes, it is always best to hone the cylinder (deglaze actually) It is a must to get the best ring seal. You need a crosshatch on the surface. Some use a Scotchbrite pad, I used a local Napa shop and they used a brush on a drill - took 30 seconds.

Before I started taking it apart my daughter was riding it and it likes to run on choke only, carb issues I would guess.

Pull apart your carb, and take out the jets. Use carb cleaner liberally and compressed air to blow out the jets. Make sure the tube on the gas cap flows air too. Also check all the breather tubes coming out of the carb. Clean your air filter and oil it if you haven't already

Oh, the transmission/crank case looks like it had a mixture of trans fluid and regular oil, whats recomended for this, gear oil,10w-30 or trans fluid. Sorry for all the questions. Im just trying to make sure this bike is squared away before we take it to the track. Thanks

Not going to touch the oil question :banghead:

Good luck :)

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Any oil that does not say "energy conserving" or something to that effect in the round seal on the back will do fine. I wouldn't use ATF, it's more expensive than oil and provides less lubrication. ATF is more of a hydraulic fluid, where as motor oil is solely a lubricant. I have used ATF for a short period of time mixed with oil as a detergent in an engine, run it for let's say a week in a daily driver before an oil change to de-gum things. I really doubt someone would do that for a dirt bike, let alone a kids dirt bike.

In the past I've also used various other things to stretch automotive fluids but only in the short term (as in hours) before an oil change. I wouldn't think anyone but me in really desperate moment would do this. (i.e. it's 3:00 a.m. I'm two hours from the nearest town and my power steering pump is leaking, all I have is brake fluid - it's close enough for two hours as opposed to burning out the pump and being stranded).

The odd color could be mixing another brand such as Royal Purple or Marvel Mystery Oil (deep red). I wouldn't worry about it, if it makes you feel better, change the oil. If the oil you have does not have a circle seal on the back, I wouldn't use it since you have no idea what it is. 10w40, 10w30 is fine.

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