can this be welded? 2007 WR 450 left engine case. (I need help)

can this be welded? 2007 WR 450 left engine case. (I need help)Saturday, April 11, 2009 1:10 PM

From: This sender is DomainKeys verified"reed haberer" <

Dirtbike friends:

I have attached 2 photos of my left engine case which has a piece of the aluminum broke where it goes around the clutch shaft and seal. There is also a small piece at the top that is missing. It is my hope to possibly weld this section back in and possibly fabricate the missing section. Keep in mind this surrounds a seal that will need to be reseated in after the welding or the shaft will leak oil.

I am pulling the engine now. If this welding is not possible I am also looking to find a used left engine case . I have already found a swingarm on e-bay. If you all know anybody with a used left engine case or even entire engine or parts bike (WR 450 years 2007 - 2009) please check around and let me know.

Any help will be greatly appreciated and paid for. The replacement of the case would mean having to buy both sides of the engine case, bearings, seals, gaskets, and a ton of labor, very pricey.

This is a grave situation as I find myself currently bikeless, depression is starting to set in, I also find I am susceptible to panic attacks, and fits of uncontrollable sobbing and crying.

Your fellow riding buddy (Reed) 619-954-8416 Sometimes I do not check TT for a while so if urgent contact my cell or yahoo e-mail account listed at the top.



im not to sure about that one, the same thing happened to my friends bike exept it didnt break anything, just rapped the chain around the front sproket 1000 times lol, if i was u id buy a new case to be on the safe side.

I bought one in a similar condition and managed to weld it back together myself insitu. I need to add at this stage that I can weld but not a welder by trade, alloy welding (with a hobby mig) is not easy. Mine seeps a bit of oil through a bit of porous weld but a covering of araldite (or similar) has taken care of this.

My opinion is, it is fixable. The picture looks like you have the important piece that snapped off, this piece is where the seal and bearing locate, the rest can be built up and filed back down so the shaft fits. My advice would be to pull the engine,

drain the oil

take off the clutch casing

remove the front part of the clutch and the clutch rod (runs through engine to clutch shaft)

This will allow you to remove the clutch shaft, take of the outer stator casing for greater allround access. Most important thing is to clean the area to be welded from oil contamination.

Next, do some local research and preferable find someone who repairs this type of thing, but I think this is an easy repair for a good alloy welder who uses a TIG welder especially if they have an engineering backround.

This would be the cheapest option, if you could strip the casing off then there are companies who specialise in casing repairs, one point to remember is to take along your front sprocket and chain to get the clearance right, I built mine up too much and had to grind quite a bit back off to run a 14 tooth sprocket.

Sorry for the long post, hope my opinion helps.

Thanks Chris,

Today I cleaned up the area and the broke piece is a bit bent but may be able to be cleaned up with a dremmel and JB weld the piece back in WO pulling the engine cases in half.

Does the following mean I have to split the case?

"take off the clutch casing

remove the front part of the clutch and the clutch rod (runs through engine to clutch shaft)

This will allow you to remove the clutch shaft, take of the outer stator casing for greater allround access. Most important thing is to clean the area to be welded from oil contamination."



your engine issue choked me up, boy do I feel sorry for you! NOW PUT DOWN THE JB WELD AND SLOWLY BACK AWAY FROM THE BIKE!

A few years ago my son had torn the drain plug (along with a small piece of engine case) off of his TTR after hitting a rock. I flushed the motor and plugged the hole with a small freez plug and filled in the rest with JDweld. The hole eventually started to weap and weap and weap some more. As a matter of fact I did the same thing after finding out how much it would cost to replace the engine case, LOL.

When it was time to upgrade the bike I knew I would have a hard time telling a buyer about the JBweld job I did. The constant weaping would only make it worse.

I got some bad advice about welding engine cases and wrote that option off. I say bad advice because a very skilled welder told me, "no problem, I have done that many times in the past." You wouldn't believe the headache I went through trying to get all of that JBweld out of that hole. While grinding it out a pice " bigger than the hole" slid into the inside of the case. I spent many hours trying to break it into small enough pieces to pull it out.

Bottom line is that if your going to try to repair instead of replace do it the right or best possible way the first time. I would give a good welder a crack at it before splitting the case. I would spend the $75 or less to try to save over $1,000+. By the way, the weld job worked perfectly on the TTR. I should of went that route in the first place.

Good luck, S/T.

No one is going to be able weld that and make it perfect unless you spend more money than a complete new engine costs.

The engine must be dis-assembled

TIG welding done

Clutch pivot shaft hole needs to be re-machined (do you have the specs??)

Engine assembled.

Finding a used engine and combining parts, selecting the best from both is the cheapest route to go. You must use and keep case halves as pairs, no mixing and matching.

Sorry but Willam! is right. I had the same thing happen to me the second ride after I bought my 03 wr450. Some one else had cut the rear chain guide off and but another on with only one bolt, well of coarse the one bolt rattled out and the chain wraped up and broke at basicly the same spot. I removed the engine and took it to the local welding shop and they tried to weld it for me but where the case broke had alot of stress cracks in it so everytime they tried to weld it another piece of the case would brake off, so I guess with out sending it to a shop that does it all the time is that no it can not be welded. And good luck finding a used case, just bite the bullet and shell out the $500 dollars to buy the new case. :p:lol:

It could be welded. It just depends on who is doing it and what they are comfortable with. I would find a guy who can weld it.

I've gotta ask, were you using a case saver, whether it be the stock one or aftermarket? If you had the stock one on there and it ripped through it, then I think I'm going to fork out some money for a nice case saver after seeing this.

Williamm1 is very wise and cubby faced the same thing with bad results from welding. It doesn't look good for the cheap fix. I would still take it to a good, no, great welder and see what he says. If it doesn't cost that much for a "chance" at a possible cheap fix I would still give welding a try. A great welder with a good mechanical background should give you a decent guess of the failure rate. They might also say no way.

The downside to doing it the proper way (new cases) is the time and or cost involved. If you can change out the cases yourself the saving$ is clear. Just don't forget to add the up the other costs like a full engine gasket set plus bearings and seals, ect... Not to mention the cost of specialized tools needed. If you farm out the job, stand by for that cost, ouch!

What ever happends keep us posted. I for one would like to know how your nightmare ends.


It can be welded! I am an aviation welder, and have done lots of this type of repairs, worse in some cases.

Find a good welder, and the proceedure is not to try to weld the piece back on but to weld repair the broken off area, then get the bore remachined...good as new...shouldnt cost more than $250.00 ish with machining....

I had the stock OEM case saver and it broke. I have been looking for solid steel ones (the oem has a hole cut in it and is weak there. The heavier aftermarket ones are all aluminum which I worry is too wek.

Thanks everyone for the input, here is what is being done:

After showing several welders one said no and two said yes. All said do not use JB weld. I have removed the stator cover, starter, ect and am pulling the engine.

I was sent to a really good welder in Lakeside CA and he said he must have the engine out to work on a bench as the arc travels and he must move the engine around. He says he has done this before.

I will let you all know how it turns out, I am taking more pics.


The way to have this done now that you have a welder is to take the engine apart, remove everything, then bolt the 2 cases back together then have it welded. This is to insure there is no warping of the cases. After all has been done check for flatness on a surface table. any warpage should be able to be lapped out. Any short cuts can end up costing twice as much. It really sucks to simply not do it right, put it all back together then have a leak and get to take it apart again. I have had to repair a few engines like that done by other companies.

Also by removing the clusters you eliminate the chance that the bearings will be damaged by arc.

To all who replied, thank you for your input.

I did find a welder who had done the job before. I had a shop (C&D Cycle) remove the motor, pull the clutch, stator, and clutch shaft out. I cleaned up the motor and gave it to Sal Paledo in Lakeside, CA 619-972-2687. He welded it and machined the opening. I had to give him a new shaft seal and clip so he could size it. Sorry but I cannot figure how to attach a photo, the link keeps taking me to an htmp browser not my computer. It came out great.



Ok, so how did it happen? did your chain snap? was it the master link that failed?....

I kinda what to look at aftermarket case savers now

its magnesium right... yes it can be welded, but its probably not worth it... unless the case is like a grand, and even then, you should post machine those bores back in shape

i dont know man, touchy stuff.... and what if it leaks a bit when you're done...

I have the same case saver on my 07 wr, they look good and are alot stronger than the original but that could be a bad thing, ie mounting bolt damage if a chain failure occurs.:busted:

I have the same case saver on my 07 wr, they look good and are alot stronger than the original but that could be a bad thing, ie mounting bolt damage if a chain failure occurs.:busted:[/QUOte]

Well, if I'm not riding my bike at the momment, I might as well order stuff for it :-)

..i just ordered one.. looks beefy and bling...

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