Torque Renches - Need Info Please!

Ok, so I want to do my YZ timing tonight, and I need a torque rench. I know it's not totally proper, but I've always done things by feel. I DON'T want to do this timing change by feel. Sooooo, I've been all over Boulder and keep finding the exact same torque renches everywhere I go, and they all go up to like 240 foot pounds. I know that those will work, but I really want one more specific to 30 foot pound and under. Is there a torque rench out there that any of you know of that would meet this specification??? If so, any idea where I could get one???

BTW, I cannot afford/justify an $80+ tool right now, so I may be screwed.

Little help would be appreciated.....


Dodger :D:)

[ August 22, 2002, 11:35 AM: Message edited by: Dodger ]

Snap-on-Tools has some wonderful models in darn near every size you can think of.

One problem though...their prices make Yamaha parts appear to be reasonable.

If I recall correctly I think I bought my 3/8 drive torque wrench from Sears (Craftsman brand of course) for around $60.

3/8" drive goes from 10 ft lbs to around 70-80 ft lbs.

Which means I can torque anything from my oil drain bolt (14 ft lb) to my swingarm bolts. (50-60 ft lbs)

[ August 22, 2002, 11:40 AM: Message edited by: MOmilkman ]


Check out equipment rental stores. Alot of times they rent out tools also. I know I have seen torque wrenchs in some of them. The cost is minimal, I would be surprised if you pay over 10.00 for the days rental.


Mark one foot from the centre of the square on your normal socket wrench, then use a fishing scale at right angle to it to measure the pull you are giving it. 30 pounds pull at a distance of one foot = 30 foot pounds! Try it against your larger torque wrench...its true!!

Thanks guys, I think I've got it.......Auto Zone has a borrower policy. You can buy a tool, and bring it back for a full refund. I guess it's just another way to renting, but it doesn't cost you anything but gas to get there and back.

Oh, and WRSM has a big brain, very cool idea.

Peace y'all, till next time.

Dodger :D:)

for your cam caps I would get a inch pound torque wrench, 1/4" drive.

This is funny. I cannot imagine how many times I thought about foot-lbs. and never thought about it meaning, well, foot pounds.

I will keep this idea in mind!

Dammit, no one around here has a decent torque wrench for me to rent. I just cannot justify/afford $80 to $130 for a good inch pound wrench right now (Oh man, I've been spelling wrench wrong the whole time, AAHHHHHHH :D !!!!!!).

So crap, hope my arm is calibrated right, I've got everything lined up to time the beast tonight.

Guess I'll see....

Dodger :):D

Why dont you just wait to do the timing change until you can buy/find a good torque wrench?

I would.

Im pretty sure that engine stuff is critical to be torqued to the right specs.

Don't do it Dodger! Wait until you can get a torque wrench. If you do it by feel, chances are we are going to see Lord help me, sometimes I'm just not that bright - Part III :)

GOT ONE!!! Thanks to a very good buddy of mine who works for the local Porsche dealership. Big mike is going to let me borrow his inch pound wrench for the eventing :D ...........YZ timing, here I come!!

Thanks y'all........

Dodger :):D

I was thinking about the foot-pound,inch-pound thing. With most of our torque specs (real low) I don't think the foot-pound wrenches are real accurate down there. Also, when I think of accuracy I think it is reflected as a percentage of the full scale. So a 0 to 150 ftlb wrench having say a 5% error could be off 7.5 ftlb; which is alot if you are only putting on 14 ftlb to start with. But, with an inch-pound wrench and a max scale of 250 the 5% error is 12.5 in-lb. But 12.5 in-lb divided by 12 to convert to ft-lb yields an error of just over 1 ft-lb. But, our manual has only ft-lb specs so you have to multiply them all by 12. Also nobody told me this argument, I just dreamed it up (which usually means I'm wrong). So is there a flaw in the logic, or is that the way it is?

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