Top end rebuild

Hi All

Iwas doing a top end rebuild and thought i would post some pic up.

The VHM head nice

Photo0136.jpg

Photo0130.jpg

Photo0140.jpg

I didn't clean the bottom end this is how i found it.

Photo0139.jpg

I notice your piston is a lot more "scruffed" up then mine was when I did mine a couple of months ago....unless I'm just seeing "blurry".

Yes it was scruffed up but not as bad as it look's in the photo.

Ill show what was bad the boysen reeds.

The ok side

Photo0145.jpg

And the bad side

Photo0144.jpg

ooh...no sh*t. I just went to replace my stock reeds with some boyeson reeds I bought on saturday but when I got in there mine looked like brand new so I didnt change them. From what I've been reading the boyesons are good if you change them with every top end, but I've read some posts that said they lasted only a very short period of time in some cases, so I left the stock ones in. How did the cylinder look?

I thought the cylinder looked ok but then i seen this

This is getting rechromed now.

Photo0138.jpg

See just above the export it has been niped.

Yeah, I see the marks...pop back in and post a pic and a final bill when you get it back please.

Ok all I'm upto the final stage of my rebuild but i have ran into a big wall lol. Ok if you look at the top of my piston chamber you will see 2 rubber orings i think that is the VHM head gasket. Now if I'm right i have a big problem because i cant get a VHM gasket any where now i think i can reuse the old would some one recommend that or should i try and use the copper gasket that came with the top end kit any ides on what i should do.

Ok all I'm upto the final stage of my rebuild but i have ran into a big wall lol. Ok if you look at the top of my piston chamber you will see 2 rubber orings i think that is the VHM head gasket. Now if I'm right i have a big problem because i cant get a VHM gasket any where now i think i can reuse the old would some one recommend that or should i try and use the copper gasket that came with the top end kit any ides on what i should do.
That engine doesn't use a copper gasket, it uses o-rings. OEM or aftermarket will work equally well. If you bought a Cometic kit with the piston kit it should have the correct o-rings in it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By Daniel Wolfe
      So i know my way around a crab pretty well and i'm very familiar with them i just can't seem to get the kawi dialed in it seems to have this unging/erratic rev thing going on when i pull in the clutch and i slow down so i'm looking for the correct carb adjustment for the bike it didn't seem to do it when it was warm out but now that it's in the 30's forties it's doing it my elevation here in upstate ny is 295' it's been around upper 30's lower 40's but i'd like to tune it so it's ready for summer because i don't ride it much in the cold so i'd like to tune it so it would be best in 70-90 degree weather since that's pretty common around here So could someone please help me out I need to know what the fuel to air mixture is needle position and proper jetting thank you 
    • By Henry Nichols
      Okay guys, I have a 1997 kx250 frame and I wanna know(if even possible) if there are any 2 stroke engines besides the original that will Bolt onto the frame without any modifications.
    • By Alex Seprish
      Hey guys I have a 1991 kx125 and it needs a crank but you can not find em anywhere so i need a good cheap place to get it rebuilt if you guys know any place let me know thanks
    • By DirtBikeHead

      Beautifully restored 1996 Kawasaki KX250! Hard to come by them likes this... has a ton of nice upgrades, including:
      PC (pro circuit) linkage
      PC valved suspension for 190 lb rider
      Rare PC seat cover (brand new)
      PC pipe works pipe
      Acerbis 100% carbon silencer
      Emig Racing top triple clamp
      Gold DID chain (brand new)
      Tag oversized bars
      Aluminum skid plate, disc guard, caliper guard etc
      Eline carbon fiber pipe guard
      Upgraded radiators (brand new)
      295cc kit has 12 hours on it
      Throttle cable (brand new)
      Steahly flywheel weight
      Plus much more.....
      Bike was just completely rebuilt, fresh grease, new bearings, new fork seals & wipers, new fork fluid, rear shock just serviced too. Ready to ride, needs ABSOLUTELY nothing and performs amazing.
      Bill of sale, have recent receipts
      Cash only 
    • By Jesse T. Groth-kennard
      so im rebuilding my bike again as you can see in the before and now pics, im a creature of habit and when i ride i mostly use the front brake because of years on a street bike, im thinking i want to tie the front and rear brake both to the front brake handle and still have the  separate rear pedal just like on my 2014 artic cat 4x4 atv, and if it is possible to do by stacking the banjo fittings or would i need a brake bias to make it work rite, if so any ideas on this ridiculous idea?