airbox (desnorkled) leaks like a sieve

I rode my bike in some very wet conditions two weekends ago - decided to clean and re-oil the air filter this past weekend - water, water everywhere. Under the seat, inside the airbox, and those drain/smog pump tubes were almost full with milky liquid. I have to believe the motor was feeding on some very moist air.

I understand there's a compromise between having EZ access to the air filter and sealing efficiency, but Kawasaki could've done a better job with this design, esp. for an off-road bike.

That is all.

Agreed, but I've found a well placed bead of silicon sealant along the airbox cover seal does wonders. That and making sure ya got it on right. That's the part I screw up the most. There seems to be 2 positions that it can close in. Both seem to be correct, but one isn't. Looking at the airbox cover, the LH side has a tongue and groove type pivot. The groove allows for some up/down movement. I've found that my cover has to be slid into the bottom most part of the groove for it to seal correctly. When I don't pay attention to this, it closes just fine, but the lower part of the cover doesn't seal.

Just my experience so far.

This is one of my biggest gripes with the bike. Thankfully I switched to a KXF airbox and it solved all my problems.

First off that airbox has no drain so water can go in but not really out. Your suppose to monitor the little clear tail and drain as nessesary. Thankfully the airbox lid is so loose that the water will come out the bottom of it. To help seal it I bought some window sealer at Home Depot and added it to the lid. I paid careful attention to the bottom of the lid to give me a little more stream/pond/puddle wiggle room.

Second if you remove the the AIS take the vent line and run it to the old AIS connection and then move the clear little tube to the vent line connection. Now run a line of tube down with the fuel lines as a drain. If you really want to make it trick find a one way valve to add to the line. We use to run Honda ATV bulb drains for high water potection as the spring gets pretty watery in northern New England were I grew up.

Now I switched to a KXF airbox. Now I don't have side access but removing two bolts for the seat and another two bolts for my CDI/battery setup takes all of 5 minutes. I did run the vent line to the intake track by adding a 90 degree fiting at the top of the intake track. Back in my KTM days the vent always went to the carb just after the intake boot. All the mags say don't do this but personally I think they are making a huge mistake. The engine is an air pump do to the change in volume of the low end with the piston moving up and down (hence the vent line) so you get a vacuum pulse and a pressure pulse. If you restrict the vacuum pulse you actually create a drag on the piston that can rob power (not much though) but it also is enough of a suck that you can draw in dirt, dust, or even water. SO I perfer to have it run into the intake tract were there is a consant clean fesh filtered supply of air, the only down side is you may get some oil vaper into the carb and motor. In my 6 years of doing this (5 on the ktm, 1 on the KLX) I've never had a problem.

Probably more info than you want to know! LOL

Seeing as someone else has brought up this subject I might have a grizzle.

I honestly think the KLX airbox design is rubbish.

For a start the filter is larger than the access hole so when you extract your filthy dusty filter you rub it against the opening and knock all the dirt off it back into your airbox. Then, when you replace it with a fresh one you get dirty blobs of greasy dirt on the filter and a chance of not seating it correctly.

I give credit for the dzus clip but why not do an airbox cover like KTM have done for nearly 10 years, large and with spring holding the filter on and not an annoying wingnut.

Or even better........due to having to design a new seat, airbox, sideplates and rear gaurd for the KLX , they should have built it like how Husqvarna do theirs with a single dzus clip at the rear of the seat. Keep the KXF sideplates, (larger) airfilter, continue with the battery under the seat but move some of the electrics to behind the headlight and have top entry filter acess.

But what would I know, I just ride bikes.

Aus613

This is one of my biggest gripes with the bike. Thankfully I switched to a KXF airbox and it solved all my problems.

First off that airbox has no drain so water can go in but not really out. Your suppose to monitor the little clear tail and drain as nessesary. Thankfully the airbox lid is so loose that the water will come out the bottom of it. To help seal it I bought some window sealer at Home Depot and added it to the lid. I paid careful attention to the bottom of the lid to give me a little more stream/pond/puddle wiggle room.

Second if you remove the the AIS take the vent line and run it to the old AIS connection and then move the clear little tube to the vent line connection. Now run a line of tube down with the fuel lines as a drain. If you really want to make it trick find a one way valve to add to the line. We use to run Honda ATV bulb drains for high water potection as the spring gets pretty watery in northern New England were I grew up.

Now I switched to a KXF airbox. Now I don't have side access but removing two bolts for the seat and another two bolts for my CDI/battery setup takes all of 5 minutes. I did run the vent line to the intake track by adding a 90 degree fiting at the top of the intake track. Back in my KTM days the vent always went to the carb just after the intake boot. All the mags say don't do this but personally I think they are making a huge mistake. The engine is an air pump do to the change in volume of the low end with the piston moving up and down (hence the vent line) so you get a vacuum pulse and a pressure pulse. If you restrict the vacuum pulse you actually create a drag on the piston that can rob power (not much though) but it also is enough of a suck that you can draw in dirt, dust, or even water. SO I perfer to have it run into the intake tract were there is a consant clean fesh filtered supply of air, the only down side is you may get some oil vaper into the carb and motor. In my 6 years of doing this (5 on the ktm, 1 on the KLX) I've never had a problem.

Probably more info than you want to know! LOL

Switching requires a KX subframe correct?

Switching requires a KX subframe correct?

No, the KLX and KXF subframes are the same.

Yup I'm running my KLX subframe. All you need is the airbox and side number plates..

Now that the muddy season is passing I'll put the good plastic on and take pics!

450exc115, been hanging out to do the conversion, had all the parts for months now. Still can't find a decent review on either the E-batt or Turntech Battery system. What are you using and how do you rate it.

Sorry for getting off topic

Cheers

Aus613

I have the turner tech battery. I'm not happy with my current connection setup as I think I'm loosing some amperage or voltage during cold start and it's cranking slow and wont light. Once the motor is warm, it's fine.

I'd almost bet the Ebattery and turner tech have the similar voltage and amperage output so I think it's connection and length of starter wire.

I did a bit of modifing to my wiring harness and airbox setup to get it were it is. I lengthed the factory KLX harness by about 12-16 inches added some water proof disconnect plugs near the carb and moved the CDI to it's new home strapped to the turner tech battery which is strapped to the old battery cover. Basically I want to be able to pull the subframe and the mounted compents off the bike to get at the carb and shock in as quickly as possible.

Right now I can pull the exhaust, disconnect the waterproof connectors, disconnect the CDI, loosen the intake clamp, and remove the 3 subframe bolts and it comes right off. The battery and CDI just kind of hang with the starter solinoid off to the side. About 15-20 minutes tops. It makes doing an air filter about a 10 minute job too.

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