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I'm going to lace a set of SM wheels.....

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.....and I have a question.

I understand the inside/outside spoke thing, and I plan on greasing the threads and nipple where it contacts the hoop for smooth adjustment, but do the hub and wheel have to be clocked in a specific way before starting?

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You will notice, the holes in the rim are pointing the direction you need to clock it.

Greasing the nipple where it contacts the rim is not that important, anti-seizing the spoke threads is.

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You will notice, the holes in the rim are pointing the direction you need to clock it.

Greasing the nipple where it contacts the rim is not that important, anti-seizing the spoke threads is.

Okay, so with regards to clocking, as long as the holes point in the right direction I'm good. I have my hubs and hoops laid out here and see that. And I'll definitely anti-seize the threads.

Is it easier to start with the inside spokes then move to the outside spokes (or vice-versa) or does that not matter?

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Spoke that feed from the outside in first on both sides then comback the the spokes that feed from the inside out. When threading into the nipples, thread them on five turns. Once all the spokes are on, tighten each one, starting at the valve hole, one turn till they are nearly tighte, then a round of 1/2 turns. Next round should result in tightening. If you need to dish/offset the rear rim, do it before you do final tightening. Remember, you want everything to be even, less truing to deal with later.

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Spoke that feed from the outside in first on both sides then comback the the spokes that feed from the inside out. When threading into the nipples, thread them on five turns. Once all the spokes are on, tighten each one, starting at the valve hole, one turn till they are nearly tighte, then a round of 1/2 turns. Next round should result in tightening. If you need to dish/offset the rear rim, do it before you do final tightening. Remember, you want everything to be even, less truing to deal with later.

Thanks William, I really appreciate your help.

I'll probably take the loose laced wheels to Buchanans to have them trued. I just want to give the lacing a go. :p

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i was gonna ask if u were gonna true them. i'd like to try and tackle the who shebang one day.....and after i get pissed off enough i'd go to Buchanans

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By the way, how much offset is needed in the rear wheel?

Depends on the rim. If my feeble memory is right, with a stock width SM rim, the edge of the rim is flush with the brake rotor. Hopefully, Eddie will confirm this if he is watching.

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did you take the hubs to the powder coaters yet??????

Not yet. I didn't get a chance to have the bearings removed at lunch, so on my way home I'll have them knocked out and will hit the powdercoater at lunch tomorrow. I need to bring something blue off the bike anyway.

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Depends on the rim. If my feeble memory is right, with a stock width SM rim, the edge of the rim is flush with the brake rotor. Hopefully, Eddie will confirm this if he is watching.

Thanks, and I am using factory hubs and hoops (4.5" rear).

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did you take the hubs to the powder coaters yet??????

Bearings are out and hubs are at the coaters. Hope to have them back in hand next week. :p

Now I need to source spokes and nipples.....

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If Buchanans is going to, do the final tightening and truing, I assume you will get the spokes from them.

I'd really like to, but they want $200 for spokes and nipples. And I actually have a local shop that will true the wheels for $40 each.

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Two bills, must be nice stainless ones. Think twice before using plain zinc plated ones.

Thanks for the input, William.

Yes, they are the nice stainless ones. I just sent an email to Forrest to see if he knows of another make stainless spoke/nipple. If nothing else exists I will buy the stainless setup from Buchanans. I definitely want to avoid the factory spokes.

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