Help me... what crf

hey all

i am 14 and am about 170cm tall and weigh about 60kg

i am stuck on which crf

an 07 or 08 150 f

or an 07 or 08 230f

i will also have about $500 to mod it what mods would you do and what bike

thanks

byrnesy

go big or go home.. aha jk.. id go with the 230 itll last u longer.

Ahhh, metric conversions, but you're only 14 and are still growing so getting the 230 might be a better bet in the long run. I am also assuming you have riding experience, right? (I hate to assume).

My opinion only, but I always look for leftover bikes when buying. I have always been able to get a great deal just by buying last year's (or the model year before) bike.

There are a bunch of threads here about initial mods to make. I always uncork the airbox, set up for trail riding (bark busters, skid plate), proper jetting (again, multiple threads discuss this), etc.

230! Nuff said!

get the 230!!!

230 I made the mistake to go 150.

yes i have the ability to handle either bike.

i have a kawasaki kx 100 but could not do anything but ride it 110 percent everywhere and i want something that i could do mustering and other small things as well as making and endurocross track. i already have a big enduro loop a motocross track and a small arenacross track

these bikes will not do as good on the tracks.

crf 150f/230f for girlfriends, moms, and wives..crf150rb or a crf250.. I know the 250 is large..I believ you are almost as big as me and I ride cr250 no problem and my sons cr85 is way more fun than the 230f any day..

go 230! im 14 and on a 250 and when im bored i ride the 230 and i have a blast on it!

I too live on a farm in Australia and the 230 is the bike for you. I have a 230 at present but earlier made the mistake of going the 150. I found myself riding 5th gear everywhere. 230 is great for mustering and cruising and good top speed with its 6th gear and has reasonable power delivery.

ok we have established what bike.. the crf 230

but what mods would you do with about $400 american dollars

ok we have established what bike.. the crf 230

but what mods would you do with about $400 american dollars

you could be "cool" and blow it all away on a graphics kit:lol:

Or you could be realistic, and buy a good set of tires, handlebars, an adjustable fuel screw, and a cam if you need more power. Definitely, definitely get good tires, you will be so thankful. I decided to stick with the stock tires and now i have a torn ACL and a broken tibia and have not gotten to ride for a little over 4 months because of a front wash out :p Good tires, proper jetting, and grip donuts are all i need to have fun... but this idea of an xr250 carb is stuck in the back of my head hehehe...

I started with a Honda 50 then a Yamaha 100 then crf150 and when i was 14 a 230. I chose a 230 for the bigger wheels (getting over logs) and extra height. Also compared to a 250 the 230 is bulletproof.:p

I bought a pro circuit t-4 exhaust system, but to save some $$ remove the baffle and rejet. If you are riding in the bush get some bark busters/hand guards and a bash plate.

I went for a xr250 carb and should be trying it out tomorrow.(It was tuned when my bike was serviced.)

I would have to agree with some thoughts on a 230 it is a great bike, but u r still grown, my son at age 14 grew out of his 150 and into a wr250 it was tall the first year, but at 15 now he will zip by me on my 450 on the trails lol, if you want to putt putt the 230, if you want to jump and mx'n go to more of a mx 125 2 stoke or a 250 4 stroke, the wr250f is sooo easy to ride?? just my 2cents :lol::p

If I had to start over again with 400 bucks, I would do the following things:

Jetting: I believe everything cost me $28, remove the airbox snorkel, remove the small black exhaust baffle.

Gearing: I went 14/48

Awesome deal on rear sprockets---> http://www.rockymountainatv.com/productDetail.do?&navType=type&webTypeId=124&navTitle=Drive&webCatId=9&prodFamilyId=24558#vehicleSelect

Uni or other aftermarket air filter, maybe $30.

TIRES: stock tires are trash, and the front tire is flat out dangerous.

Look up some tire reviews based on the type of conditions you ride in, should be around $120 for both tires.

Ohh, and don't worry about jumping, the 230 is heavy, but it can still get some air under it. Jump3.jpg

i have heard that the sidewinder 428 chain conversion kit is good is this true

crf 150f/230f for girlfriends, moms, and wives..crf150rb or a crf250.. I know the 250 is large..I believ you are almost as big as me and I ride cr250 no problem and my sons cr85 is way more fun than the 230f any day..

Before making blanket statements and completely "dissing" the 150 and 230, you need to quantify the remarks.

For trails the 150/230 will destroy a CR85, the 85 is way to Pipey for real trail riding. Keep in Mind, the 150/230 are TRAIL bikes.........they do their job very well.

My riding buddy just got rid of his RM 250 because he couldnt hang with the "wife bike" he traded for a drz400.

the 150/ 230 stock are very weak on suspension, add emulators for $175 and a works shock for $600.00 and it will become a trail beast. :p

Before making blanket statements and completely "dissing" the 150 and 230, you need to quantify the remarks.

For trails the 150/230 will destroy a CR85, the 85 is way to Pipey for real trail riding. Keep in Mind, the 150/230 are TRAIL bikes.........they do their job very well.

My riding buddy just got rid of his RM 250 because he couldnt hang with the "wife bike" he traded for a drz400.

the 150/ 230 stock are very weak on suspension, add emulators for $175 and a works shock for $600.00 and it will become a trail beast. :p

negative the f series are wife bikes lol just kidding sort of ....

if your a good rider you could easily do much better on a cr 85 then a 150f/230f in a hare scramble . even if there are a few tight sections and i know tight i live in the north east . but the 230/150f do have their advantages there just not as much as a work out in trails . but for when the trail opens up most people want some power on tap . so that's why i suggest a 250x or wr 250.

I like honda's, but i would never reccomend a 250X

the valve and maint issues are just not worth it. adjust valves every 10-20 hours...........i ride 8 hours when my bike goes to the woods............im not adjusting valves every third ride!!!!

The wr250 is a great bike, but it is watercooled. Knock off a radiator and you are in for a long push back to the truck.

The 230 when properly tricked out will hang with a WR250 with no problem. its not cheap to get it to that point...........but with some $$$ it is a killer in the woods.

the benefit to the bike when completed is........BULLET proof..........air cooled....easy maintainence....................and if you do manage to wear it out you can move your upgrade parts to a used "as new" bike. You can easily find a 230 that hass no time on it for $2,000.00 or less.

We tend to be a little biased in this room..............but it is the crf150/230 room

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By H0ndaHunter
      Hello all,
      I have a 2005 crf230f im wanting to modify my bike as best as possible for a sumo style bike. My first thought was an engine swap.
      Has anyone done an engine swap on this bike before? If noone has what engine would be the best fit to do so?
      The 230cc engine desnt have enough umph to really be a daily driving unless taking backstreets all the way to work so im trying to see what i can do to make it have the umph.
      Some of the mods ive done include the airbox mod, a lighting kit, sprocket change (i believe i have a 42 and 13 but cant rememebr), and a jetting mod where my dad took the stock jets and drilled it out just significantly enough to make her kick as much as she can.
      Im looking at doing handlebar risers, an airbox mod on the right side of the bike for even more airflow, cr500 shock if possible. 
      I am absolutely in love with the turning radius and nimbleness this bike has. I have ridden my dads BRP and my brothers crf450r and they just cant skirt around the world like my bike can so im trying to get the power (hopefully) of a bigger bike in the body of my bike. 
      Im not looking to have to completely tear the bike down to modify the bike, but if need i can make it happen. Before i am forced to modify the frame to accept another engine, are there any straight swaps that can happen? Are there any other performance mods that can be done to get that speed a little higher without sacrificing too much reliability?
    • By JMD984
      I have an 03 CRF150F that has a pretty bad wobble in the front wheel.  It has the OEM rim on it, 19x1.40 w/36 spokes.  For some reason, Honda is REALLY proud of their CRF150F rims, and want $125 for a new one.  However, the same size front rim from an XR/CRF100 or CRF125F are only $25-$30.  I realize that the spoke/nipple sizes are different, but is there any reason I couldn't use an XR100 rim and lace it with CRF150F spokes if I drilled the holes out larger?  Could nipple size be an issue?  Center well depth?
      I'm not looking for weight savings, or bling, just a straight wheel assembly.
      Or, if nobody knows the drop-in capability, I sure could use a lesson in spoked wheel compatability.  Does anyone know a good site for learning what features really matter when trying to swap rims?
      Thanks for the insight in advance.
    • By ccasey75
      Looking for BBR upgrades for 2006 CRF230F including the following:
      Heavy fork springs
      Heavy shock spring
      BBR Triple Clamp
      BBR Linkage
      Shock upgrade
      Let me know if what you have and how much you want!!
    • By Christo6060
      They will fit with some modification I did it on my bike 2007. The 2015 through 17 has an extra mounting hole on the tank and shroud so I cut the threads off an extra mounting screw and superglued it in that hole giving it a more authentic look. Except I didn’t use enough glue on the right side and the screw fell out. I had to use spacers on the front mount. And drill a new hole on the original tank mount but that doesn’t effect the original shrouds mounting. And a new hole on the new shroud. The new shrouds also sat correctly against the tank not affecting the seats look. Pictured is the two shrouds next to each other and the bike with the original shrouds. Also pictured is the listing for the shrouds and I only  spent $30 AUD on the OEM shrouds which were listed at $35 after my offer was accepted. They came with new hardware. And it was well worth it. I hope this post was worth the time😂.










    • By Fisforfun
      SOLVED*** No timing issue, just had trouble lining up TDC  Going to rebuild top end to fix low compression. Thanks for the help TT
      So I bought my 2003 crf230f a few months ago from a friend. The bike has definitely been ridden, and was blowing a little bit of smoke when I bought it so I knew the rings would be toast sooner or later. After a basic tune-up the bike ran really strong and I continued to ride it a few times a week for a couple months with no problems... Until last week when I was riding and it died on me. At the moment when the bike died, I was coasting down a hill so there was no extra stress on the engine, I just noticed the engine shut off- almost like running out of gas.
      From that moment on, the bike would not start so I towed it home and checked the essentials... Air, Fuel, Spark, Compression.
      Air- The new air filter I installed when I bought the bike was already covered in dust, so its possible the piston rings got even more dusted. I cleaned and oiled the filter anyway (the bike wouldn't start with the filter removed).
      Fuel- I recently changed my jetting to Mike Coe specs, and installed a larger pilot jet to eliminate popping on deceleration. The bike ran great with the new jetting and I know the carb is clean. I went ahead and cleaned out the gas tank and fuel lines and cleaned out the carb yet again.
      Spark- Spark plug was white due to running lean before I changed the jetting. Plug turned more of a brown color after jetting, indicating better A/F ratio. Replaced spark plug anyway and can see strong blue spark. Also, gas is making it to the plug.
      Finally did a compression test and had low compression. I adjusted the valves which were a bit out of spec, and saw no improvement. A wet compression test (one tsp oil in plug hole) showed higher compression, but still low, indicating the piston rings are toast. I ordered new rings and top end gaskets and will rebuild the top end next week.
      I was also wondering if I have a timing issue, since the engine at TDC (pic 1) shows the cam sprocket about 30 degrees (in the retarded position?) off from being horizontal with the head, as it should be according to the FSM and Clymer manuals. Also, when cranking the engine CCW by hand, the flywheel tends to spin past TDC and happens to align the cam sprocket perfectly horizontal with the head. Is my timing way off? Also, the flywheel has a || mark (pic 2) near TDC that I used to adjust the valves. Just today when I took the pictures, I noticed a |F mark (pic 4) that usually spins past quickly so I never saw it before. both marks appear close to TDC but the engine always wants to spin to the natural position (pic 5). Where is my true TDC? Manuals only show a |T mark. Are the cam sprocket lines supposed to be horizontal with the head? Maybe it jumped a tooth? I have read the cam chain tensioners are known to fail also.
      Edit: Found the T mark, updated photo near bottom of thread
      tl;dr
      Bike died on me, has low compression, going to rebuild top end. See pictures. Could this be a timing issue also? Does anyone know if the lines on the camshaft sprocket are supposed to line up with the horizontal lines on the head? Thanks in advance for the help!
      Pic 1- TDC at || https://imgur.com/QJXXjXH
      Pic 2- || mark https://imgur.com/v7dBSf8
      Pic 3- TDC at |F https://imgur.com/DZCPBaT
      Pic 4- |F mark https://imgur.com/JbcVYhF
      Pic 5- Engine wants to spin to this position: Cam sprocket lines horizontal with head- https://imgur.com/S3rPRgd
       
      Let me know what you guys think. Has my timing jumped? I appreciate your help!
      Cheers,
      Spencer
       
      Edit: Finally found the damn "T" mark. Always spins past so I wasn't able to see it before. Updated picture posted near bottom of thread. Timing looks fine so  just going to rebuild top end next week to restore compression