Crush Washer and Caliper Bolt


I was on a ride yesterday, and was at the top if a large hill when I went to grab a hand full of front and there was nothing there!!! I coasted down the hill and discovered that one of the bolts that holds the front caliper on had rattled itself completely off. Well I was able to reposition it and ride back to the truck without any front brake.

I was hoping someone out there would be kind enough to help me decipher the OEM part numbers on here so I can order myself a new one.

Also, (and I ran a search for this one....) Does anyone know the part number or the size/dimensions of the crush washer I should be replacing with my oil changes (drain plug)? And Am I supposed to be placing the o-rings in the oil filter cover everything as well??

Thanks for all your help!!

Anyone?? Please... I will dance at your wedding.... =)

Oh Cool, but wait, are there 2 crush washers?

Number 16 I do believe.

There had better be two; there are two drain plugs. Need a manual?

The bolt is a 90105-08137-00

There had better be two; there are two drain plugs. Need a manual?

Hmmm, no I have a manual. But I have only been draining the one main bolt:bonk: . I Guess I better check the manual again...:p

Ok, so now that I know that, is there a part number by chance for those I could find??

...ANd on second though am/have I doing/done any damage by not draining the second one?? I always open up the fill hole and the dipstick hole and let it drain for a good 30 mins. Bike has maybe 15 hours on it since coming home from the stealership.

The bolt is a 90105-08137-00

^^Thank you for that!! Just waiting to see if I can also order the crush washers from TT. =)

The washer for the drain plug on the left front, under the ignition cover is a 90430-08119-00. The drain at the right rear, under the kick starter, and conveniently located behind the frame rail :p (DON'T strip it) is a 90430-10188-00.

Your bike has a dry sump oiling system, meaning there is an oil supply separate from the crankcase, one pump to feed oil to the engine from there, and another to return it from the crankcase to the supply reservoir. This normally means there is an oil tank hanging on the frame somewhere, but then designers started getting clever and used the frame itself to hold the oil supply. In an effort to lower the center of gravity as much as possible, Yamaha moved the "oil tank" into a separate cavity in the front of the crankcase. It is still very much a dry sump system, but you can see how it confuses things. Read more if you want.

The simplified correct procedure is to remove the dip stick, drain the oil from the left front, drain the oil from the right rear, change (or clean) the oil filter, and refill. With a filter change and a complet proper draining, they take exactly one liter of oil to refill.

Here's two more links to look into:

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