Got a 00' DRZ400S & need your advice about mods

I have a 2000 Stock DRZ400S & could use your help

I just acquired a stock DRZ400S 2000 in a bike trade with my brother in law for my 2001 YZ250F (I am trying to get into Dual Sporting) I was trying to determine if I should keep the bike or not and if the mods make a big difference or not? As you might have guessed a stock DRZ400S feels very under powered and not real torquey on the bottom end compared to my YZ.

My Question is this, did anyone have an S without any mods and then completed the mods have not have any noticeable change? And if you did have change was there a VERY noticeable difference after the mods? I was considering the 3X3 and dyna jet kit along with putting new sprockets on the front and rear to set up a 14/47 gearing now it is 15/44, do you think I will have a noticeable difference? I can only get the front end up in 1st gear now and want to be able to do that much better in the higher gears. When I go down the trails and need to pop the front up to avoid logs, roots and erosion gully's I can't get the front up like I used to. Also in hill climbs it is soft too if I need to pop over stuff. Also how much will I loose on the top end with the above mods?

Thanks for you time and knowledge,


G'Day Mate

Well I don't have an "S" model ,But I can say that the 14/47 gearing will make a differance I personally am going for 14/50 but Iam a big guy and I ride alot of narly hills from what the other guys say rejettying the 'S' makes abig defferance especially with the air box and an exhaust mod also don't forget to get rid of the side stand switch, It can be a bit of a death trap if your boot hits the side stand just as your trying to wheely over something and it kills the motor and you drop the front wheel just when you don't won't it to, but I think you'll find with a few mods it will be a good duall sport bike remember it's no 250 light weight but put her on a bit of a diet and get rid of some of the unnessary stuff and cover up some of her soft spots and you'll learn to love her :).


the DJ kit and the 3x3 hole with the gears will make a world of difference. depending on your weight i would also recomend stiffening the springs. Some race tech cartidge simulators would make the forks feel 10x better. steal gears are cheap at rocky mountain and last forever. all said and done i dont think it takes a ton of money to get the DRZs up to par for the trail. Not to be overlooked though are the safety goodies - skidplate, case savers and some radiator guards. i would do these first as the belly and rads are very expensive to replace. Emulators and springs are nice but the bike is still ridable and enjoyable without them.

To give you an idea, I weigh about 200 lbs with my gear on and I too like to hill climb. I was trying to figure out how much top end I will loose if I go to 14/47? Also, do you guys know where to buy the UFO tail/stop, blinker kits? Also, What do you mean when you say: Blingin new electic blue power band by suzuki racing?

My second option was to sell this bike and convert a WR426F but I really don't have the money now and want something that I will be happy with. I am just wondering if it would be cheaper to sell this and buy a used WR426F and possibly not have to make all those mods? By the time I change gearing, jetting, forks, pipe etc. would it be better to just get the Yamaha WR426S?

Why are DRZ's worth all of those mods?

Thanks again,


Why are DRZ's worth all of those mods?

Cause it is the BEST damn dual sport bike ever produced, and the mods make it even BETTER! :)

"I was trying to figure out how much top end I will loose if I go to 14/47?"

Top speed drops from about 90mph to about 80mph when you change from 15/44 to 14/47.

I think 93mph - 78mph are the 'on paper' numbers.

I hav'nt done any gearing mods yet but check my sig. and you will see the other ones are done. As far as getting it up in first gear only the bike is a different animal offroad than it is on the road and I can pull the front end up over any obstacle in just about every gear offroad due to (I guess) the more aggressive riding stance that you normally are in when trail riding. Thats just my experience but it has been quite capable. :)

Check out my website for mods for your S. They do make a big difference. Lots more power, but it will still be heavy.


I run 14/47 gearing and I've had mine up to 86mph and I wasn't at the rev limiter yet, but probably close. I had it up to 105 with the stock gearing, also not at rev limiter.

The airbox/jetting/gearing changes really transform the performance.

I've been watching the resale prices for DRZ's lately and they aren't holding their value so well. Expensive mods are not going to dramatically increase value over stock, either.

I've spent on handling mods to make the bike better offroad (revalve suspension, steering damper, CR-Hi bars, tires). But I've avoided expensive mods to enhance power (new exhaust systems, 436 kits, cams, CDIs, etc.) .

Re-jetting and re-gearing have given me enough low-end snap and can be done for under $50. I wonder how much more power I need now. If I got a new exhaust, it would be more for the weight loss than the increased power.

IMO - first change the tires (S model). Then protect the bike (armor). Then do the cheap rejet/gearing mods. Then do the suspension if you have the cash, especially on an early "S" model like yours. Most dampers can be transferred to other bikes, so that's plus - that would come after the suspension.

The first few are mods you'd do to most bikes anyway. The serious riders and racers revalve their suspension for their style/size/terrain regardless of the bike. So the DRZ is even in those areas.

To get the DRZ engine up to WR performance you'd need to spend, but if you're not seriously racing, you can save your money and be happy with the DRZ power.

The DRZ "S" is gonna be heavier. To really drop weight, it will cost you. But they feel lighter than they are, especially once handling/suspension issues are addressed. And they come with a license plate and better road manners than true dirt bikes.

Also - drz starts easier. Good luck on the WR426 if you stall at a stoplight!

Also - where do you ride? WR426's are a lot to handle in tight woods.

Also - Do you like working on engines? the DRZ motor's not as powerful, but more reliable.

Plus the mods can be done as you have spare cash.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By BikeChimp
      I'd like to turn my UK 2004 DRZ400S back to stock airbox (snorkel) and jets, needle shim position etc
      When I bought it the PO had fitted a Sigma6 kit and done the 3x3 mod but is doesn't have a tapered needle like the JD and other kits. Took me ages to get it running right, however it still runs rich and I'm fed up of arsing around with it. 
      So I've bought a standard airbox without 3x3 hole, stock exhaust.
      Q1 The Suzuki manual says this Mukuni BSR36 (29FA) carb should have a 142.5 Main Jet but the Clymer manual say its a 135.  In UK everything's from sea level to 1000m. I'm in Sheffield so nothing gets above 500m even in the Peaks (Hills). Any UK owners or anyone else know what the correct jet should be?
      Q2 Says the original needle is a '5DH36-2nd'. The needle has 5 notches on it. Currently set at 2 clip from bottom. The Suzuki reference says needle is 5DH36-2nd, Does the 2nd bit mean 2nd from top or bottom?
      Q3 - Does anyone have a detailed photo of the shim order just in case it was assembled wrong. (mine is attached)
      I know most people on here are going to be horrified I'm taking back to stock but any help on above would be really appreciated.

    • By Bgringo
      I've read a lot of threads about this but still haven't found exactly what I'm looking for.  I'm pulling my 2004 DRZ400S out of storage sometime this week and getting it ready for the season.  I live at 9,000 ft, but my first ride of the year is probably going to be at around 5,000 ft.  I was going to pull the 145 main jet I'm running and put in the 150 adjusting the needle from the 2 clip to the 3rd, then re-jet once I got home.  I already have the extended fuel mixture screw in place so I started thinking that I should just run the 150 jet set up and adjust the fuel screw to compensate for the higher elevation where I'll be doing most of my riding.  I will be going down in elevation for rides until late May or June depending on snowfall, but riding on the street when I'm able.  Are there any disadvantages with this?
      I'm new to posting on this forum, so please forgive me if I didn't get the right search words in and there is already a post about this.
    • By Markl5557
      I am currently running 10w 40 Belray non synthetic and I want to switch to full synthetic amsoil .... is it ok to switch from regular to synthetic? I have read it’s not safe to go from synthetic to regular can someone explain if it’s safe to go from regular to synthetic!? Thanks !
    • By RockyMtnMark
      Good Morning,
        Last night I measured my valve clearances for the very first time (I know...) on my DRZ400S.  It's a 2002 and I've owned is since 2011.  I bought it with t's got about 15,000 miles on it and most of it's miles these days are on dirt.
      Intake specs are 0.10-0.20 mm.  Exhaust specs are 0.20-0.30
      My intake valve clearances are in spec, forgot to write them down.  My exhaust valve clearances are between 0.1778 and 0.2032 which is slightly out of spec.  They are no more than 25 microns out of spec.  My question is, do I really need to shim these?  Will this kind of out-of-spec cause performance, mechanical, or other losses?  As far as I can tell, I'd have to buy a whole shim kit which is like $80.  Thanks!
    • By Zach440
      Selling my 2009 Drz400sm. Been a great bike but it’s time to let go . Not looking for any trades - spring is just around the corner ! Located in northern Virginia . Cash only $4200- willing to negotiate I have some wolfman luggage options available as well. Love to make a package deal for someone 

      -11640 miles . Mild off-road never wrecked.
      -Oil / filter changed every 1500 miles
      -New did chain , brake pads , front sprocket at 10400 miles .
      - valves checked and within spec at 10,000
      - jetted with JD kit and 3x3 mod
      -doubletake mirrors
      -waterproof usb wired and located next to Speedo
      - drc large foot pegs , barkbusters with integrated turn signals . 12oclocklabs tall delete with upgraded circuit board
      -thumpertalk case savers
      -sergeant seat (amazing) and Clarke 3.9 tank (190mile range )
      - fog lights wired in so they shut off with high beams
      -Shorai lithium battery
      -led headlight

      - stock gas tank and seat will be included

      The bike is dirty in photos and I apologize my water is currently disabled outside due to freezing temps . Radiator guards and skid plate NOT included but can be for some extra $$. Rear tire could be replaced but front is fine .