Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Got a 00' DRZ400S & need your advice about mods

Recommended Posts

I have a 2000 Stock DRZ400S & could use your help

I just acquired a stock DRZ400S 2000 in a bike trade with my brother in law for my 2001 YZ250F (I am trying to get into Dual Sporting) I was trying to determine if I should keep the bike or not and if the mods make a big difference or not? As you might have guessed a stock DRZ400S feels very under powered and not real torquey on the bottom end compared to my YZ.

My Question is this, did anyone have an S without any mods and then completed the mods have not have any noticeable change? And if you did have change was there a VERY noticeable difference after the mods? I was considering the 3X3 and dyna jet kit along with putting new sprockets on the front and rear to set up a 14/47 gearing now it is 15/44, do you think I will have a noticeable difference? I can only get the front end up in 1st gear now and want to be able to do that much better in the higher gears. When I go down the trails and need to pop the front up to avoid logs, roots and erosion gully's I can't get the front up like I used to. Also in hill climbs it is soft too if I need to pop over stuff. Also how much will I loose on the top end with the above mods?

Thanks for you time and knowledge,

SAM

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

G'Day Mate

Well I don't have an "S" model ,But I can say that the 14/47 gearing will make a differance I personally am going for 14/50 but Iam a big guy and I ride alot of narly hills from what the other guys say rejettying the 'S' makes abig defferance especially with the air box and an exhaust mod also don't forget to get rid of the side stand switch, It can be a bit of a death trap if your boot hits the side stand just as your trying to wheely over something and it kills the motor and you drop the front wheel just when you don't won't it to, but I think you'll find with a few mods it will be a good duall sport bike remember it's no 250 light weight but put her on a bit of a diet and get rid of some of the unnessary stuff and cover up some of her soft spots and you'll learn to love her :).

Ian

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the DJ kit and the 3x3 hole with the gears will make a world of difference. depending on your weight i would also recomend stiffening the springs. Some race tech cartidge simulators would make the forks feel 10x better. steal gears are cheap at rocky mountain and last forever. all said and done i dont think it takes a ton of money to get the DRZs up to par for the trail. Not to be overlooked though are the safety goodies - skidplate, case savers and some radiator guards. i would do these first as the belly and rads are very expensive to replace. Emulators and springs are nice but the bike is still ridable and enjoyable without them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

To give you an idea, I weigh about 200 lbs with my gear on and I too like to hill climb. I was trying to figure out how much top end I will loose if I go to 14/47? Also, do you guys know where to buy the UFO tail/stop, blinker kits? Also, What do you mean when you say: Blingin new electic blue power band by suzuki racing?

My second option was to sell this bike and convert a WR426F but I really don't have the money now and want something that I will be happy with. I am just wondering if it would be cheaper to sell this and buy a used WR426F and possibly not have to make all those mods? By the time I change gearing, jetting, forks, pipe etc. would it be better to just get the Yamaha WR426S?

Why are DRZ's worth all of those mods?

Thanks again,

SAM

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Why are DRZ's worth all of those mods?

Cause it is the BEST damn dual sport bike ever produced, and the mods make it even BETTER! :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

"I was trying to figure out how much top end I will loose if I go to 14/47?"

Top speed drops from about 90mph to about 80mph when you change from 15/44 to 14/47.

I think 93mph - 78mph are the 'on paper' numbers.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I hav'nt done any gearing mods yet but check my sig. and you will see the other ones are done. As far as getting it up in first gear only the bike is a different animal offroad than it is on the road and I can pull the front end up over any obstacle in just about every gear offroad due to (I guess) the more aggressive riding stance that you normally are in when trail riding. Thats just my experience but it has been quite capable. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Check out my website www.drz.info for mods for your S. They do make a big difference. Lots more power, but it will still be heavy.

-Matt

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I run 14/47 gearing and I've had mine up to 86mph and I wasn't at the rev limiter yet, but probably close. I had it up to 105 with the stock gearing, also not at rev limiter.

The airbox/jetting/gearing changes really transform the performance.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've been watching the resale prices for DRZ's lately and they aren't holding their value so well. Expensive mods are not going to dramatically increase value over stock, either.

I've spent on handling mods to make the bike better offroad (revalve suspension, steering damper, CR-Hi bars, tires). But I've avoided expensive mods to enhance power (new exhaust systems, 436 kits, cams, CDIs, etc.) .

Re-jetting and re-gearing have given me enough low-end snap and can be done for under $50. I wonder how much more power I need now. If I got a new exhaust, it would be more for the weight loss than the increased power.

IMO - first change the tires (S model). Then protect the bike (armor). Then do the cheap rejet/gearing mods. Then do the suspension if you have the cash, especially on an early "S" model like yours. Most dampers can be transferred to other bikes, so that's plus - that would come after the suspension.

The first few are mods you'd do to most bikes anyway. The serious riders and racers revalve their suspension for their style/size/terrain regardless of the bike. So the DRZ is even in those areas.

To get the DRZ engine up to WR performance you'd need to spend, but if you're not seriously racing, you can save your money and be happy with the DRZ power.

The DRZ "S" is gonna be heavier. To really drop weight, it will cost you. But they feel lighter than they are, especially once handling/suspension issues are addressed. And they come with a license plate and better road manners than true dirt bikes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Also - drz starts easier. Good luck on the WR426 if you stall at a stoplight!

Also - where do you ride? WR426's are a lot to handle in tight woods.

Also - Do you like working on engines? the DRZ motor's not as powerful, but more reliable.

Plus the mods can be done as you have spare cash.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

×