kick stand cut off switch

hello all,

I did do a search but must be doing it wrong because it must be covered here.

Is there step by step here to take off the kick stand stand cut off switch?

My brother wiped out on my DR and now I think the switch is acting up.

If someone can put in the the right direction, i would be greatful!:doh:

Just take the two wire that go into the switch, cut them, strip back the insulation and splice them together to close the circuit.

I'm thinking maybe there's a step-by-step in the DR FAQ.

Sarah

I had this saved in a word doc. as I still need to fix as well. I found it either here or on advrider - note this is not my step-by-step.

1. first off you'll want to remove the front headlight fairing. this will make it easier on you.

2. then, look to your clutch lever. underneath it will be a small switch looking deal with a wire loom hanging off it.trace that loom back from the switch over to the headlight area. it will lead you to the 2 bullet type connectors that they plug into.

3. disconnect the two plugs and connect the 2 plugs coming from the bike end together. they should be 1 male, 1 female (wich makes it simple to cancel it out the safety switch)

4. toss the wires that lead into the clutch perch. i cut off the wires directly behind the switch and used a dot of silicone to plug the hole in the switch so as not to leave an open area for dirt to go into.

5. before you bolt everything back together, turn the key and make sure it starts WITHOUT having to pull the clutch lever of course.

6. if you got it all right, bolt your cover back on and ride

if you trace the wires up you'll find a connector near the side cover, on mine i cut the two wires on the switch side of the connector leaving plenty enough room to solder and heat shrink it, making a little loop basically.

I had this saved in a word doc. as I still need to fix as well. I found it either here or on advrider - note this is not my step-by-step.

1. first off you'll want to remove the front headlight fairing. this will make it easier on you.

2. then, look to your clutch lever. underneath it will be a small switch looking deal with a wire loom hanging off it.trace that loom back from the switch over to the headlight area. it will lead you to the 2 bullet type connectors that they plug into.

3. disconnect the two plugs and connect the 2 plugs coming from the bike end together. they should be 1 male, 1 female (wich makes it simple to cancel it out the safety switch)

4. toss the wires that lead into the clutch perch. i cut off the wires directly behind the switch and used a dot of silicone to plug the hole in the switch so as not to leave an open area for dirt to go into.

5. before you bolt everything back together, turn the key and make sure it starts WITHOUT having to pull the clutch lever of course.

6. if you got it all right, bolt your cover back on and ride

mm,

Isn't this for the clutch? I was looking for the kickstand cutt off. Unless they follow the same wire path. I have no clue when it comes to wiring. Can't I just unplug the green plug that comes up from the kick stand switch itself?

PS. Thanks Sarah, but I did not see it in the FAQ's

]

Yes, you can take the switch off and do the wire thing, however there is a relay under the seat that is involved in the deal. I rewired mine with out the relay or the diode block just to eliminate the possibility of something wlse failing somewhere down the line. I think i may still have the instructions that i down loaded, so if you will send me a PM with your e-mail address, i'll see if i have it and scan it and send it to you.

Cheers.

It's not complicated.

1) Find sidestand switch

2) Remove connector from said switch

3) Cut the wires to the connector (leaving enough wire on the connector to splice it back together in the future if you ever change your mind).

4) Strip the ends of each wire

5) Twist the stripped ends of the wire together (or crimp together with a butt splice)

6) Solder the wires if you didn't use a splice

7) Tape up the wires or otherwise insulate them (with electrical tape or something)

8) Ride the sucker

mm,

Isn't this for the clutch? I was looking for the kickstand cutt off. Unless they follow the same wire path. I have no clue when it comes to wiring. Can't I just unplug the green plug that comes up from the kick stand switch itself?

PS. Thanks Sarah, but I did not see it in the FAQ's

]

You're right - well you have this now as well,

Sorry about that newride. Now we do, I went back to the FAQ and added a link to this thread.

Sarah

Thanks everyone! I will give this s shot.

J:thumbsup:

I used 3 zip ties to disable mine, one vertically and two horizontally. No cutting or removing of anything, the switch is now locked in the side stand up position, it has been this way for more than six months and hasnt' been a problem since.

(A bit of cut & paste on my part)

DR650 NSU and Clutch Bypass

There is more to bypassing the starter/side stand interlock system than just bypassing the clutch switch & jumping the side stand switch wires. There are other components in the system you want to eliminate so they will not be a problem if they are left in & fail later.

Suzuki's system on the DR650 is pretty simple compared to some others. The following components are what is used in the system: The clutch lever switch, side stand switch, neutral switch, side stand relay & a double diode set for the side stand relay & neutral light.

The engine kill switch is also involved in it.

The system works by controlling whether or not there is 12 volts supplied to the CDI unit (capacitive discharge ignition unit), the CDI unit needs 12V to operate.

The 12V comes from the side stand relay to the ignition kill switch & then to the CDI unit.

The 12V power to the starter solenoid through the clutch lever switch also comes off the ignition kill switch, that's why the starter won't work if the kill switch is pushed in or the side stand is down with the bike in gear.

The 12V is supplied to the ignition kill switch when the side stand relay is energized. The side stand switch & the neutral switch controls whether or not the side stand relay is energized by providing or not providing a ground for the side stand relay's operating coil.

If there is no ground the relay is not energized. The ground is provided when the side stand is up, side stand switch is closed, or if the transmission is in neutral & the neutral switch is closed.

The neutral switch also operates the neutral light & that is the reason for the 2 diode set, to keep the two functions separated.

The reason you don't want to just cut & splice the wires from the side stand switch is that you will be leaving the side stand relay in place & that is just something that can fail leaving you with a bike that won't start. To do the bypass eliminating what is not needed do the following:

Unscrew the side stand switch & disconnect it at its plug located in the area behind the gas tank. No need to cut any wires.

Next go to the side stand relay located on a post on the frame just to the left of the CDI unit just in back of the battery & remove it. This is where you make the connection that bypasses the relay & permanently provides the 12V to the ignition kill switch.

There are 4 wires going into the connector for the side stand switch,

2 orange, one green & one orange with black tracer. You want to make

a jumper that connects one of the orange wires to the orange with

black tracer. This will require getting small male connectors or as

I did make a bridge connector from sheet aluminium (thin like trailer

aluminium) that you plug in the connector. Securely tape the

connector so it can't short out.

I also removed the 2-diode set that controls the neutral light. You don't need to do this; if the diode failed you just wouldn't have a neutral light. The diode set is plugged into a connector located in the area just behind the gas tank. Make a jumper that connects the blue wire (from the neutral light) to the blue with black tracer wire (to the neutral switch).

Again here I made a jumper out of sheet aluminium. Securely tape the connector so it can't short out. To eliminate the clutch switch just go to where the clutch switch wires connect to the bikes wiring harness behind the headlight fairing. Disconnect the wires & plug the harness side wires together (male to female connectors).

You now have bypassed the starter/side stand safety switch system eliminating

the items that are not needed. Remember you now can start the engine with it in gear & the clutch engaged & you can drive off with the side stand down, both of which could get you hurt or killed so do this at your own risk.

What's the harm in leaving this stuff on the bike? I always cold start my bike with me standing beside the bike in neutral, on the side stand, with the clutch pulled in, and the choke on. I let it warm up and off I go. What's the potential down side to this?:crazy:

Hot starts are me on the bike, either in gear or neutral, kickstand up, clutch pulled in, choke off, and it fires quickly.

Why do people seek to disable these little annoyances?

I think a lot of people disable the sidestand switch because it can cause the engine to cut out while riding on rough terrain (as the sidestand bounces downward on the bumps). It can also cause problems if the sidestand spring gets weak.

I don't fully understand the reason for bypassing the clutch switch, though, other than it can cause starting problems if it fails (without a kickstarter, this can be somewhat problematic when away from home and tools).

Me? I intend to leave this stuff in place on mine until it starts to give me trouble.

My DR650 is stock but the original post was because he thought the kickstand switch had been messed up during a spill. On my old DR350 the spring got worn so I just closed the circuit and never had another problem again. While I agree with fishhound that it would better to completely take the whole system off, for simplicity sake and to find out if the kickstand switch is the problem I would just take two minutes out and splice the wires together just to see if that's even the problem before going thru the entire kill system and jumping wires.

It's not going to hurt anything by splicing a couple wires together, afterall the system is designed to have a continuous closed circuit while riding that should last the life of the bike.

I think a lot of people disable the sidestand switch because it can cause the engine to cut out while riding on rough terrain (as the sidestand bounces downward on the bumps). It can also cause problems if the sidestand spring gets weak.

I don't fully understand the reason for bypassing the clutch switch, though, other than it can cause starting problems if it fails (without a kickstarter, this can be somewhat problematic when away from home and tools).

Me? I intend to leave this stuff in place on mine until it starts to give me trouble.

The reason I did was this, if I were to dump the bike up in the hills and break the clutch lever, I might not be able to get it started, although i should be able to at that point pull out the trusty tool kit and bypass it then.. then i could have input for the clutchless shifting thread

it's a wonder they don't have buzzers or bells go off when you get off your bike, with the key still in the ing. good for the novice i guess.

I disabled the clutch safety after reading this:

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=559092&highlight=clutch+safety+switch

I could just see the same thing happening to me.

I've left my sidestand switch alone for now. Way back in the day my bro-in-law (experienced rider who musta had a brain fart) rode off with the kick stand down and took out a mailbox as soon as he tried to make the first left-hand curve. He was laid up with a severely ruptured spleen for a good while.

Sarah

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