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Speaking of Torque Wrenches

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The recent posts on torque wrenches got me to thinking about mine.$ 19.99 special at the local Auto Zone.So I've been looking at purchaseing a better model.My ? is.Do you guys prefer the "clicker" or "torquemeter" type.I can see + and - for both kinds.The clicker type you have to adjust each time.The meter kind you always need to see the dial.Is this correct?I was thinking a in.lb from say 40 to 200 and a ft. lb from say 5 to 75.I have an older beam type for the real heavy stuff.Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.

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I prefer the clicker type ,I think they are more accurate,but thats just my opinon,someone will probably prove me wrong but thats what I believe(so long as it is a good quality one)(and remember these are presition tools so they most be looked after not just thrown in the tool box)(god did I just say that I get more like my dad every day,oooo scary thought) :D:)

Ian

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Clicker is more accurate than dial type.

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I use a torque meter for the small stuff and a "Clicker" on the big ones. I trust the smiple reliable Bent Beam torque meter type far more then the "Clicker" type. On large nuts and bolts where you're not able to keep an eye on the dial while applying the pressure the Clicker is handy.

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I borrow my friends snap on ft lbs range wrench and its range is from 5 - 80 or so ft lbs and the craftsman is 16.7-80 and the snap on has never failed me yet. you do not want to get a 40 inch lb wrench, you want a 5 at least and then convert to inch. 1 ft == 12 in. you often see 70 or so in lbs

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You really canno buy a better wrench than what Snap-on sells. Their wrenches with the dial built in are the most accurate around.

Do you need the accuracy? Most of th efasteners on the motorcycle show a wide torque range (16-20 lbft, for example) Darn near anythign is accurate enough get you in this range.

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I don't own a lot of Snap-on tools, but the one I do own is a Snap-on torque wrench clicker type.

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i have snap-on 1/4,3/8 and 1/2 drive clicker torque wrenches.i only use the 1/2 on my autos.the 1/4 drive is invalueable for 6mm fasteners on motorcycles.especially cam caps and valve covers.

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I don't have many Snap-On tools, but I spent the money on a Snap-On torque wrench.

I had a decent crapsman tw and I broke two! head studs on an XR600 before I realized my recently calibrated TW was giving me too much gusto on the bolts. Fortunately the XR600 head studs have a cool over-torque faliure built into them so you don't strip the aluminum.

I use crapsman tools for most everything (I don't make a living using my tools) but for the important stuff I use Sanp-On (the little metal picks are another Snap-On tool I have).

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I have only one Snap-On tool, it's my 5 to 80 Lb. 3/8" drive Flex Head Cliker Type, and I LOVE THAT TOOL. Once in a while I'll show it to someone and I may even let them hold it, but it never leaves my sight. I polish it after each use and never lay it down anywhere, it's either in my hand or lying in it's Red storage case. :)

My wife thinks I'm ridiculous. If you want the best that will outlast 100 DRZs then get the Snap-On, just don't tell your wife what it costs, they just don't understand how that thing could possibly be worth $200.00.

When talking torque wrenches the old adage is true...you get what you pay for.

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I am somewhat of a forgetfull cluts in my years and prefer the clicker style. Just in case I drop it or set something on it.

The dial is pretty but I often find myself taking things on dunebuggy trips for repairs and I need durablility.

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Most of you will just laugh but I'm planning on buying Harbor Freights clicker tomorrow as it's on sale now for $11.95.... :)

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OK...here goes...HE HE HE :):D

IMO most of those cheapies are ok for occasional use, lets face it..its better than using a calibrated elbow! :D

Just make sure to store it with no tension on the internal spring, this will help keep its accuracy...Speaking of accuracy, ck the manufactures specifications and always keep it in mind when setting your values :D

Good torque wrenches are expensive but even those need calibration annually and ours usually need to be tweeked some.. :D

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I'll compare it's readings to my beam style type.

It would be easy to make a calibration "tool" by hooking a known weight to a 12" lever and seeing what it reads. As crude as this sounds as long as the weight is accurate I'd have to believe this would be exact.

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I've got the craftsman 3/8" digitork clicker now it has 5-80 ft lbs.

I wasn't sure I wanted to spend that much ($90) till I found out it was considered a cheaper tool.

I've heard that proto is the best.

I've got an old 1/2" beam style one that my dad bought at the swap meet when I was a little kid that I really never trusted. I checked it against my new craftsman and it was spot on!..?

If you get a in lbs TW make sure you convert it to ft lbs correctly and before you buy it make sure it fits the tourqe range you need if it doesn't it will be usless.

I like what burned said about the 1/4" TW , The reason this all started was I was going to change my valve shims and wanted to start doing it right on my DRZ (My first NEW dirtbike).

Well I could not get the wrench to all the bolts......DAM-IT...all that trouble and still a calculated wrist!!!!!

Now I will have to look for a 1/4" TW

PS where can I get a 1/4" tourqe wrench and 1/4" drive allen sockets to match.

And does any body know if they make a offset tool that can exstend into a tight spot. and still get correct tourqe settings?????

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just cut a piece of 6mm allen wrench stock and stick it in a socket. You can do it for all sizes. Make sure that you put some tape around it so it doesnt fall off and end up in the worst possible place...i.e, murphys law :)

If you buy a full set of allen sockets your gonna find most of them will never get used so just make the ones that you need. On a DRZ its a 6mm that you'll need most for engine stuff.....

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I found a cheap way to keep an accurate clicker! tested my beam type to an expensive snapon clicker by using a 8 point 1/2 -1/2drive socket. clamped snapon clicker it in a vise with thick rubber pads connected the beam type to the clicker And test at 10 pound incriments and it's right on

The money.Lucky I guess :)So I know the beam is goodAnd I recheck it yearly. when i use the cheap clicker I check calibrate to the beam.My clicker will follow the ranges on the beam (luckly again)But I didn't buy the cheapest I could find either.But a guy brought one for me to check and I calibrated at 60 Ft lbs and it drifted all over the place on higher and lower ranges and even the repeatabilty at 60 wasn't so hot.But it was better none

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