Graphics Glue..?

Im installing my graphics, and for some reason on both sides of the radiator guards (these are n-style) at the bottom the glue just doesn't hold. Hasn't since I applied it. Any way, or any kind of glue to hold that down. Do they sell a glue that is like decal glue? I want something that will come off when I want it to :)

Thanks

maybe a glue stick? like the ones kids use for artwork.

they dry hard but the glue resign could be removed later with the use of alittle varsol

i've used loctite superbonder# 414 on mine , comes in a small bottle and works great , only takes a drop or 2 to stick it back down . anyone that sells loctite products should have it .

Sounds like a surface prep issure to me. Try cleaning the plastic with a good no-residue contact cleaner (RadioShack) or if need be find out what the plastic material is (I imagine it's ABS) and then call Loctite and see if they have a bonding surface prep (not accelerator) that will make either the plastic decal adhesive hold better and/or some loctite adhesive hold better. It's amazing how much surface prep makes a difference. Not just by having the parts clean but exposing good elctrons for the adhesive to mate with (or something like that..) Now that I think of it Walgreens and hardware stores sometimes sells a plastic prep/adhesive combo call "Plastix" Advanced Plastic Bonder" that I bet would work well to. Just my 2 cents as they say.

Try a little contact cement. Apply a thin layer to the back of the rising decal edge,a thin layer to the shroud, let sit for about a minute and then stick together. Also, Goof Off is an adhesive solvent, you can use it to clean surfaces but you may be able to use to "recharge" the adhesive.

West Marine sells cans of stuff called sticker-on and sticker-off. I am going to give it a try.

Well prep doesn't come to mind because its only on the rad shrouds in the same place (the triangular cutout) at the bottom of that where the contours kinda pull it up. I Had taped it down but it never stuck on both sides. So I may try the locktite glue. I would hate for dirt to get in there and see it cause more and more to peel.

Well been a couple of hours and its still stuck.. Ill attach an image. I cut two little slits with a razor really small to allow some flex on that curve. I added some of that Sticker-On to it and it has held since. I am hoping that will do the trick and will probably use that stuff on the rest of the graphics too. Now I just ponder getting an Acerbis 4.25Gal before I do the tank graphics or not :)

Try heating the graphic with a hair dryer or heat gun till it's nice and pliable. Then just hold it down till it cools. Construction adhesive works real good but it is tan in color so be carefull of putting on too much. Also automive trim adhesive works good but it comes in spray cans so again be carefull. The trim adhesive is the best stuff you can use for grips also. Grips slide on like butter and set up in about 5 minutes. It's $8.88 at Walmart and is a lifetime supply.

Yeah, I think that Sticker-On stuff helped it gain some adhesive ability. I then hairdryed it and held it tight. Took it outside to cool some and it seems to hold. I still have to do the tank! <:\> and the side panel graphics

drztwist: There are some plastics that will give any kind of adhesive/paint a hard time, and sharp contours don't help either. Before I got my questionable computer job I had a really miserable job in a sign shop doing vinyl on everything from plain old boards to semi trailers, and learned how to not foul these things up too badly.

The rad guards and other plastic might be made of HDPE (anyone know for sure??), which is great stuff for making stencils out of because almost nothing will stick to it very well. On a larger, flat surface the vinyl will stick to the HDPE just because of the greater surface area. On a corner or edge the HDPE could be a problem. I would be curious to see if the sticker-on will hold when the weather warms up (unless you've been doing all this in a heated garage instead of a freezing cold outhouse. . .). Heating up the vinyl and cooling would shape it temporarily, but whether or not it stays that way is just up to dumb luck.

The hair-dryer trick is really good for stretching around any kind of contours, but the only thing it will do to affect the adhesive is to soften it up. One thing to keep in mind with the hair dryer is that it's really easy to stretch the vinyl clear out of whack, or accidentally tear it. If you take your time, and it's at least room temp outside, the vinyl should stretch enough on its own for anything but really sharp contours. The hair dryer is actually better for removing old graphics than anything else.

When you're putting on the tank and side panels, just clean the plastic with a squirt of window cleaner (just plain windex works best) and wipe them completely dry with a good towel or t-shirt. Don't use paper towels or a really ratty rag (to prevent stray fuzzies from causing bumps). When you set the graphics down smooth them from the center out (works like magic to help prevent bubbles and misaligning the graphic). If you do get bubbles, then get a really fresh xacto knife and lance the bubbles on the outside edge and smooth the air out from the other side. If you have a good blade and are careful you can really get nice results. A good graphics job shouldn't take more than five or six beers and a large tobasco slim jim.

If you get really fed up, go find a GOOD local sign shop that does vinyl and see what they'd charge to put it on for you. Something like that might be worth the $$$, if you're having a hard time. Some places might do it just for the fun of if (I would!).

Yeah, how well it holds up is yet to be seen. Its been good for a while at room temp in the house. Hopefully when i get some flex it will be held good enough not to pop up again :)

Thanks for the info :)

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