'09 450r fork spring swap tips, tricks?

I just ordered a set of FC .50kg springs to replace my stockers. Though I have not yet obtained a shop manual the owners manual outlines this procedure fairly in depth. I have worked on street bike forks many times but haven't had a pair of dual chamber mx forks apart in quite some time so looking for any tips and hints to make the procedure as painless as possible.

Thanx in advance.

the manual has a very good description of how to do it. just follow their instructions - there's no real 'shortcut' to the procedure.

i think i saw a video somewhere explains how to do it. a good service manual def helps

Finished it last night. Easy as pie and took about an hour.

I have a pair of fc .48s for the 09 450r if anybody wants to buy them..

Extra set of .46's here. Installed but never ridden.

You can cheat a little bit on the spring swap. Turn the fork leg upside down, undo the bottom nut and remove the bottom nut and jam nut, then remove the dust wiper and circlip, remove the stanchion/bushings/seal normally using the "slide hammer" method (it will all come out as one assembly), swap the spring, replace the stanchion and reset the lower bushing, main seal, circlip, and dust wiper. Put the jam nut on pretty far, align the bottom nut with the rebound rod, bottom it out on the threads, tighten jam nut, tighten bottom nut into fork leg. Shouldn't need to drain the oil this way.

Extra set of .46's here. Installed but never ridden.

You can cheat a little bit on the spring swap. Turn the fork leg upside down, undo the bottom nut and remove the bottom nut and jam nut, then remove the dust wiper and circlip, remove the stanchion/bushings/seal normally using the "slide hammer" method (it will all come out as one assembly), swap the spring, replace the stanchion and reset the lower bushing, main seal, circlip, and dust wiper. Put the jam nut on pretty far, align the bottom nut with the rebound rod, bottom it out on the threads, tighten jam nut, tighten bottom nut into fork leg. Shouldn't need to drain the oil this way.

This depends on what tools you have access to. If you have a fork seal driver, but no fork cap wrench, the above is a good way to go (and you can leave the oil in it....) If you have a fork cap wrench I think its a little easier to do it the regular way.

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