Damn.. I think I need to rock a CK needle or another PWK option.

I'm in the clip 1 of the EK and I still could afford to go leaner on the needle still. I'm thinking of getting the CK needle but I dont think its going to make enough difference. Anyone run a CK or know of an alternative non yamaha needle that's leaner than the EK?

My plug is not showing signs of detonation yet, tan on the insulation, partly tan partly brown on the inside of the plug walls, zero white spots.

The EK and 165 main cleaned up 50% the spooging from the EJ/168, but still some spooge.

20-30 deg celcius

5000-6000ft

165, EK clip1, 42 pilot.

91 octane w/ lucas octane boost mixed at 25L.

Opti2 65:1

Squish done.

I'm in the clip 1 of the EK and I still could afford to go leaner on the needle still. I'm thinking of getting the CK needle but I dont think its going to make enough difference. Anyone run a CK or know of an alternative non yamaha needle that's leaner than the EK?

My plug is not showing signs of detonation yet, tan on the insulation, partly tan partly brown on the inside of the plug walls, zero white spots.

The EK and 165 main cleaned up 50% the spooging from the EJ/168, but still some spooge.

20-30 deg celcius

5000-6000ft

165, EK clip1, 42 pilot.

91 octane w/ lucas octane boost mixed at 25L.

Opti2 65:1

Squish done.

i live in calgary and went threw all this.the n3xx series needles gave an early first taper which is too rich,by leaning out other areas of your jetting you are giving up performance trying to clean up this rich taper area.these needles are good for mx because the riders spend no time on that part of the needle.when i ran a strong running setup with any of the n3xx needles ,i would load up and foul plugs.plug fouls would occur in tight 1 and 2 gear stuff as i was always on the rich taper section.if you stay with n3xx needles you will lean other areas too much trying to compensate for the rich first taper.better to change needle profiles altogether.

i have run some c tapers (straight taper sudco needles)and they work fine,i didn,t dial them too much and still had spooge but they never foul.

i am now running jd red needle and i had good plug color and no spooge.i was running the stock silencer and then switched to my fmf turbine coreII.this silencer added bottom torque but the spooge returned so it needs to be leaned slighty as it is more restrictive.

my current setting this past week at maclean was 42 jd red 3 170 main,i think 42 red 2.5 168 would be a little sharper.

by the way i also have .45 squish and a altitude corrected chamber on my head.

i have several c needles and some d needles you can try.i can run them in jd jetting needle program and you can see how they differ and also get an idea how they perform.

cj

:lol:

I should've spent my $85 that I put into my snorkel on the JD jet kit. :worthy:

i live in calgary and went threw all this.the n3xx series needles gave an early first taper which is too rich,by leaning out other areas of your jetting you are giving up performance trying to clean up this rich taper area.these needles are good for mx because the riders spend no time on that part of the needle.when i ran a strong running setup with any of the n3xx needles ,i would load up and foul plugs.plug fouls would occur in tight 1 and 2 gear stuff as i was always on the rich taper section.if you stay with n3xx needles you will lean other areas too much trying to compensate for the rich first taper.better to change needle profiles altogether.

i have run some c tapers (straight taper sudco needles)and they work fine,i didn,t dial them too much and still had spooge but they never foul.

i am now running jd red needle and i had good plug color and no spooge.i was running the stock silencer and then switched to my fmf turbine coreII.this silencer added bottom torque but the spooge returned so it needs to be leaned slighty as it is more restrictive.

my current setting this past week at maclean was 42 jd red 3 170 main,i think 42 red 2.5 168 would be a little sharper.

by the way i also have .45 squish and a altitude corrected chamber on my head.

i have several c needles and some d needles you can try.i can run them in jd jetting needle program and you can see how they differ and also get an idea how they perform.

cj

I think with the modded carb, It's a little more unique in the jetting. The JD red probly would not have worked for me, I figure I would be at the red needle clip one and needing to pursue leaner needles which have made the kit useless.

Going from the EJ to EK clip 1 made a substantial difference, I have but loads of low and mid I'm less concerned if the need screews with certain points in the throttle as long as it isnt the top. I still need to be leaner than a 165 main even.

Please do the charting for a me. The "d" needles sound interesting. Maybe I should check KTM needles instead...

RB is trying to help me out with standard kehin needles too.

:lol:

I should've spent my $85 that I put into my snorkel on the JD jet kit. :worthy:

Dont worry I will try to figure this out.

why 65:1, just curious...

why 65:1, just curious...

Well I ran 50:1 and found it was too oil rich. 80:1 is the suggested but I am scared to run it that oil lean. Some of my friends run it at 50, 70, 80 and 100:1!!:worthy:

I run 65:1 as its somewhere in the middle! It doesn't smoke like it does on 50:1.

Well I ran 50:1 and found it was too oil rich. 80:1 is the suggested but I am scared to run it that oil lean. Some of my friends run it at 50, 70, 80 and 100:1!!:worthy:

I run 65:1 as its somewhere in the middle! It doesn't smoke like it does on 50:1.

It's good stuff Maynard. I wonder if the gutsy KTM owners run it 160:1 then? They mix with 60:1 Motorex ester based synthetics...... :lol:

Me? just the cheap stuff still at 32:1 but gonna do 40:1 next. It's a lucky day that I ever reach the main jet. :lol:

Still using the stock #7 slide? The biggest difference for me was going to the #8 slide, even better than going from the EJ needle to the EK. I've tried a few unorthodox Keihin needles that really leaned it out @ 1/4 before switching slides, but they all led to pinging while I still had a soft spot when you first cracked open the throttle. The #8 slide with the EK needle (#1) solved most of that problem, but I still get a hint in deep loamy stuff. I really need to dump some compression as well, mine's a bit high.

I've been wanting to look into later model Kawasaki needles, but haven't looked up any of the codes...and I'm not sure if they're in JD's spreadsheet or not.

I've been wanting to look into later model Kawasaki needles, but haven't looked up any of the codes...and I'm not sure if they're in JD's spreadsheet or not.

Faded my notes have the KX needles as follows, 05' and newer = NFT_/NFU_, 02' to 04' = NAF_/NAL_. Those are in the latest version of the spread sheet (available since jan. 09') don't know about the older version. If it's in your spreadsheet also take a look at N3W_. I'd like to hear what you think! Note* it's supposed to be available in diameters D thru M, however the spreadsheet only lists D thru I.

Still using the stock #7 slide? The biggest difference for me was going to the #8 slide, even better than going from the EJ needle to the EK. I've tried a few unorthodox Keihin needles that really leaned it out @ 1/4 before switching slides, but they all led to pinging while I still had a soft spot when you first cracked open the throttle. The #8 slide with the EK needle (#1) solved most of that problem, but I still get a hint in deep loamy stuff. I really need to dump some compression as well, mine's a bit high.

I've been wanting to look into later model Kawasaki needles, but haven't looked up any of the codes...and I'm not sure if they're in JD's spreadsheet or not.

Ya my JD #8 slide came in a few days ago. But I need to clean up 1/4-4/4 area mostly. In the manual it shows the slide mostly contributing to 1/4 throttle but that it has effects to 3/4 throttle. So I'm hoping that the EK + 8 slide is the ticket! But I am gueessing there is a more optimum needle out there than the EK.

Faded my notes have the KX needles as follows, 05' and newer = NFT_/NFU_, 02' to 04' = NAF_/NAL_. Those are in the latest version of the spread sheet (available since jan. 09') don't know about the older version. If it's in your spreadsheet also take a look at N3W_. I'd like to hear what you think! Note* it's supposed to be available in diameters D thru M, however the spreadsheet only lists D thru I.

Where do I get these spread sheets?

Ya my JD #8 slide came in a few days ago. But I need to clean up 1/4-4/4 area mostly. In the manual it shows the slide mostly contributing to 1/4 throttle but that it has effects to 3/4 throttle. So I'm hoping that the EK + 8 slide is the ticket! But I am gueessing there is a more optimum needle out there than the EK.

Sounds like we're in the same boat. I have the #8 + the EK (#1) and it's closer than it's ever been, but it could be better.

Sounds like we're in the same boat. I have the #8 + the EK (#1) and it's closer than it's ever been, but it could be better.

RB is thinking I should try some keihin needles.

RB is thinking I should try some keihin needles.

Did he have any recommendations?

Did he have any recommendations?

Kinda, I'm reading the JD spread sheet, the problem is in the taper (1/4 to 3/4 throttle) I'm concluding so far.

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