Broken 1986 XR250 Kickstarter Spindle

One of the neighbor kids who is always hanging around the shop with my boys managed to break off the end of the kickstarter spindle on his 1986 XR250. He doesn't have a whole lot of dough to take it to a shop, so I'm trying to help him.

Am I going to have to split the case to replace it? I was looking at a parts diagram and it looks like the shaft goes all the way from one side of the case to the other. It appears to have a circlip on each end. My hope is that I can take off the stator cover and the clutch cover, remove one of the circlips and slip it on out. The question is, can I get the replacement spindle back in... If you know what I mean.

I would appreciate any advice I can get... Thanks!

Also, if anyone has a spare used spindle lying around who wants to sell it for a reasonable price, let me know. I feel bad for him. I took him on a poker run with my kids and the damn thing broke 5 miles into the ride. It was his first real trail ride and I hope to get him back on 2 wheels as soon as possible.

Thanks for the help! I just found one on eBay for $50 and bought it.

Once I saw an actual picture of the spindle, it's pretty obvious that it is small enough to be accessed on the clutch side. The exploded diagram made it look enormous.

A little update on this project, and a cry for help...

I received the spindle that I purchased off of eBay and everything looked visually identical. After I got everything put back together, I was unable to fit the kickstarter lever back onto the shaft. Upon closer inspection, the replacement spindle is larger on the splined end. The part was advertised as being for a 1986 XR250R -- exactly what we are working on.

There are a couple of possibilities here. One: the replacement part is wrong. Two: the XR I'm working on had the wrong part(s) in it before it came to us... A spindle and kickstarter lever from another bike.

I'm in the process of trying to figure this out, and would appreciate any knowledge anyone might have...

One other question: Does anyone know the torque spec for the clutch spring bolts? The manual I have states that I should "tighten securely". I was using a 3/8 ratchet to tighten them and being very careful because I knew the clutch parts were aluminum. However, I found out the hard way that the bolts themselves were also aluminum. They never snugged up, but apparently immediately started stretching. You guessed it: I broke one off, and visibly stretched the other three. Long story short, I ordered new bolts and would like to do it right the next time with a torque wrench so there is no chance of this happening again. Without a torque spec, I'm pretty sure that the bolts would get *slightly* stretched each time when tightening by feel and eventually break off again. Thankfully, I was able to use a pick to get the broken off bolt out, but I might not get so lucky next time. Thanks in advance!

Most riders assume that the 86-91 (or 95) XR250R bikes are the same except for BNG (bold new graphics). But in fact, Honda made incremental improvements and changes to the XRs every year. Case in point, the kick starter spindle and kick arm joint changed in '87. The kick arm joint is the part of the kick start lever assembly that bolts onto the spindle. I suspect the change was the larger diameter you are finding.

Your choice: get an '86 spindle or get an '87 or newer kick arm joint.

Spindle - about $142.

Kick arm joint - about $47.

But (there's always a but), if you look at the parts page, you'll notice that there is no part number for the kick lever, the part you put your foot on. It only comes as part of an assembly. It too, may have changed in '87 as well.

I looked up the parts online at <>, but other online dealers may have cheaper parts.

6-9 ft-lb on the clutch bolts, as shown in the Honda Service Manual.

No specs that I am aware of. Just tight...

Did you take the bolt out of the kickstarter?

Interesting. I spoke with the gentleman who sold me the part today (he called me) and he double checked the engine he took the part out of. It was an 86. I can only assume that someone upgraded that engine with the newer part.

I measured the side of the spindles, the bearing surface, that installs in the engine case. They were both the same. This indicates that they are indeed interchangable. Next I measured the splined end of the spindle and the replacement one that I purchased was exactly 2 MM larger than the broken one.

I am going to try an find a kick arm joint. Armed with the measurement, I might be able to have some success here. I just wish I was armed with a part number. It would help to have a Honda dealer nearby, but we lost ours. Nearest one is now 65 miles away...

Thank you for the torque specs. I really appreciate all the help.

You said: I just wish I was armed with a part number.
I said: I looked up the parts online at <>

The part numbers are online :worthy:

Excellent point, and thank you for making it!

My assumption was that those weren't the actual part numbers. Case in point: if you were to cruise on over to and look up the same diagram you would see that the numbers are different. My bad.

One final thing, at the risk of frustrating you further, just to make certain I understand you... :worthy:

You said: But (there's always a but), if you look at the parts page, you'll notice that there is no part number for the kick lever, the part you put your foot on. It only comes as part of an assembly. It too, may have changed in '87 as well.

My take on this, after studying the parts diagram and your info, is as follows:

--part# 28241-KT1-671 would get me *just* the kick arm joint.

--part# 28300-KT1-671 would get me NOT *just* the kick starter arm, but the entire assembly including the kick arm joint.

So, I interpret your point being: that if I take the risk and order just the kick arm joint, it might not fit the older kick starter arm that I currently have, which would leave me in the position of having to buy the whole assembly anyway.

Did I get that right?

Did I get that right?
You got that exactly right :worthy::banana:

They beefed up the spindle, so they might have beefed up the kick starter arm.

Cost is not an issue for me; I would order the whole assembly and be happy with the redesigned parts, whichever ones they happened to be. I would rather skip a dinner out than be stuck in the backwoods with a broken kicker. :banana:

About sites not using Honda part numbers - I never understood what they were trying to accomplish.

Ah, truer words never spoken!

The only concern here is that this bike belongs to a 13 year old friend of my boys. I'm going to have to break the news to him and see what he wants to do. Maybe I'll have him do some yard work or something. I've just been trying to lend a hand to avoid $70/hr shop rates, if you know what I'm saying.

So I got the bike all together, and I'm gonna give it back to the kid. I did part number research (thanks to help from Ramz) and gave him the information so he can purchase a different kickstart lever assembly.

The part numbers for the spindle, and the kickstart lever changed in 87 and stayed the same all the way to 95. At this point, we are just making a (slightly) wild guess that this part part number is going to work.

Here's what would take the guess work out of it: if some really nice person who happens to own a XR250R that is between the years 87 to 95 would measure the splined end of their kickstarter shaft that sticks out the side of the clutch cover with a caliper and let me know what it says... I'm hoping it will be really close to 18mm. :worthy:

So you managed to replace the shaft without splitting the cases? I was told the cases had to be split to replace this shaft?

That's correct. I'm still not clear on which years require you to split the case, but I am just thankful that 1986 does not require it. From what I can tell, later years do not require it either.

Basically, you have to remove the clutch (which requires a special socket), and then the shaft assembly pulls right out. The biggest hassle is getting the engine side cover off since there is no clutch cover, per se. You have to remove the exhaust header, three oil system fittings, the brake pedal, the skid plate (not oem), and a couple of cables. I had a big pile of crap on the floor before I even had the cover off!!

I can measure my kickstart shaft tomorrow for ya if no one has gotten back to you on this by then. I have a '87 with a '95 shaft installed.

Anyone? Pretty please? Thanks!

I wanted to give an update on this for the benefit of others... I ended up buying the kid an 87 kickstarter for his birthday, hoping it would fit correctly. It did. Here's what I learned.

1. The 87-95 spindle will definately fit in an 86 with no change to the seal or anything else. The part number is 28250-KK0-010.

2. Since the spindle is beefier, the 86 kickstarter pedal will not fit. You must buy the 87-95 kickarm assembly. The part number is 28300-KT1-671. Optionally, you might be able to just get the kickarm joint which is part number 28241-KT1-671 and put it on the old kickarm. I haven't verified that it will work though, and it's only $20 more the whole assembly.

3. I think it's worth doing as an upgrade, especially if you ever break off the 86 spindle. Why put in the weaker spindle if you can put in a stronger one for the same amount of money.

The only problem I have had (other than figuring this crap out), is I somehow managed to install the spindle wrong. Now that I have the kickstarter pedal, I was able to test my work. The kickstarter pedal won't return because the spring doesn't have quite enough "umph", and doesn't seem to go down far enough. In other words, the pedal won't stroke all the way through to the footpeg. I had a feeling I did it wrong, but for the life of me, couldn't see how to do it right. I'm tearing it down tonight in hopes of figuring it out. I think I need to preload the spring somehow.

Thanks for all the help guys... I couldn't have gotten this far without the great advice!

tyeerider.........kudos to you for helping a young kid out! :thumbsup:

It is pretty tricky to get the shaft installed correctly if you haven't done it before. Here is the procedure quoted from the service manual:

" Hook the kick starter return spring on the crankcase. Temporarily install the kick starter pedal on the kick shaft and rotate the shaft counterclockwise until the ratchet stub is clear of the stopper plate. Push the kick starter assembly into the crankcase. Install the spring seat and cam spring. Align the punch marks on the starter cam and the spindle and install the starter cam. Install the thrust washer on the spindle."

If there is no starter cam, ignore that part of the procedure.

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