Front brake banjo - switch wires broken

Not sure about others but the Aus WR's come with 2 wires sticking out of the front brake banjo (the light brake light switch).

These wires are in a such a position that the factory has cut a hole in the factory supplied handguard which the wire must me threaded through.

Problem is is the guard twists on crash impact more than about 15mm the wire is likely to get ripped off like myn did.

I didn't mind not having the light but yesterday the fluid came out through the busted switch assembly and we all need a front brake.

i don't want to replace it all as it was beacuase I am sure it will just get ripped off again.

Has anybody come up with a solution or a better system to wire the brake light switch?

cheers

[ September 15, 2002, 09:12 PM: Message edited by: Snapper ]

I replaced the standard bolt/and wires with the normal flat bolt that came as a spare when I changed to CR style braided line. Just let the rear brake switch do the job.

I fitted Acerbis Rally 2 handguards, and now the switch/wiring is protected by the handguard, rather than passing through it. The original Aussie design is pretty badly thought out, the hole in the right handguard looks like an afterthought.

All sounds too complicated for me. I agree with just put in the US banjo bolt with no wires and let the rear do the job.

OK, I'm getting fed up with broken front brake light switches. I've now broken my third one! At US$20+ a pop, this is ridiculous. I made a guard that mounts to the hand guard to protect the switch from impact but even that didn't work. Now I'm looking at trying to rig a mechanical switch that depresses with the lever, but I haven't figured out how to do it yet.

I did a search on TT for "brake light switch" but came up empty. Has anyone had any luck making a non-hydraulic brake light switch for the front brake?

I made a bracket out of stamped steel and used a microswitch from a forklift with a small arm on it. I mounted the switch to the bracket and made it adjustable then I removed the nut which goes on the bottom of the shoulder screw which holds on the front brake lever and installed the plate with the switch attached. On the brake lever itself I drilled a small hole from the bottom, tapped it and ran a small machine screw with a nut on the end to make it adjustable. The little arm on the switch is activated by the screw on the bottom of the lever.You might have to tweak the arm on the switch slightly. My friend also mounted the switch the same way I did and we both had no problems yet. Good luck!

The brand name "bark busters" clear the switch easily, cost about $120.00 or a bolt with a copper washer will do the trick. :)

woodsrider426 wrote:

"I made a bracket out of stamped steel and used a microswitch from a forklift with a small arm on it..."

Do you have a picture of it?

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