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Warning Drz Owners!!!!!!!!

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sorry bout your engine probs bro. Do you mind if I use your "sh*t on a blanket" cliche? That is the best thing I have heard all day.:worthy:

go for it dude your welcome

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Hey GOF1 - i never said anything of the sort - look in the quote that was pasted in...it was from someone else!

If you read what i said - i was questioning the reliability, some say they are bulletproof, but then on the other hand to keep that reliability theres a hell of a lot of servicing and care needed. Im glad ive got mine but i also do have, mortgage, full time job, 3 children, house to renovate etc etc.....

+ also id happily buy and fit a MCCT but im not confident enough to do it from a text file - are there any pics. Also its gonna be tough convincing the wife i need to buy stuff for it after only having it for a week...

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Hey GOF1 - i never said anything of the sort - look in the quote that was pasted in...it was from someone else!

If you read what i said - i was questioning the reliability, some say they are bulletproof, but then on the other hand to keep that reliability theres a hell of a lot of servicing and care needed. Im glad ive got mine but i also do have, mortgage, full time job, 3 children, house to renovate etc etc.....

+ also id happily buy and fit a MCCT but im not confident enough to do it from a text file - are there any pics. Also its gonna be tough convincing the wife i need to buy stuff for it after only having it for a week...

Posted this someplace else yesterday.. So it is a repost,,,,

The bike is a reliable platform,,, there are thousands of new DRZ’s sold every year.. Since 2000. It’s a mechanical device with a lot of parts, assembled by hand mostly. Things go wrong due to manufacture defects, assembly failures, and human error. There are patterns of failure on theses motors which have been identified here on TT. Most will never see these failures even if they do nothing but ride. But some will, and lots of it is preventable by some simple reliability fixes. Why roll the dice and see of you one of the few when a few hours of preventative fixes can be done and you’re sure NOT to have these possible, known issues. Pays your money takes your chances..

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This is true - just ordered my mcct - a bloke that i work with knows how to fit them so he's going to help me. In all fairness ive just been out to have a look at mine and i can see the ACCT - i was under the illusion that the tank had to come off and the rocker head etc etc....as i say its 10 years since i messed with any bikes and even then i always knew my way round 2 strokes (TDR250, Gamma MK2, TZR250) so this is all new to me (4 stroke part) everything else is quite easy...

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my timing never sliped across the cam sproket because i checked it when i took the head off and all markings on the cam pulleys where facing the way they should be when the engine was at TDC

Which does not mean the sprockets had not slipped on the camshaft.

If it gave a warning before going bang that is probably what happened.

As Eddie has already said, if it was valve failure you get no warning, it just goes bang.

Neil. :worthy::banana: :banana:

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Which does not mean the sprockets had not slipped on the camshaft.

If it gave a warning before going bang that is probably what happened.

As Eddie has already said, if it was valve failure you get no warning, it just goes bang.

Neil. :worthy::banana: :banana:

this is why i created this thread as i thought it would be usefull to drz riders to check there valves and to make them aware of strange noises that shouldnt be coming from the engine.

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its a little bit sketchy to set up a mcct you have to listen whilst adjusting it to see when the rattling of the cam chain stops there is a guid on tt that is in one of the archives on how to set up your mcct, but to be perfectly honest with you if you have the standard auto adjust tensioner. the old saying goes "if it aint broke dont fix it"

Your joking right? Although I do have to thank my ACCT for failing at the 3k mark on the odometer, otherwise I'd never have bought my KTM... :worthy:

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Which does not mean the sprockets had not slipped on the camshaft.

If it gave a warning before going bang that is probably what happened.

As Eddie has already said, if it was valve failure you get no warning, it just goes bang.

Neil. :worthy::banana: :banana:

this is why i created this thread as i thought it would be usefull to drz riders to check there valves and to make them aware of strange noises that shouldnt be coming from the engine.

Except that one can clearly see that the valves were hitting the piston long before the valves broke because there is carbon burned into the old dings whereas the new dings from the valve heads smashing into the piston are shiny. This failure (imo) is nothing more than the result of a lack of maintenance.

Hate to say it, but it's not the bike's fault that it broke.

Highwayman's point is a very good one: Know the sounds your bike makes and take the time to find out why something sounds or feels unusual.

(and I'm glad to see that you have a new engine in the bike!) :banana:

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Hey GOF1 - i never said anything of the sort - look in the quote that was pasted in...it was from someone else!

If you read what i said - i was questioning the reliability, some say they are bulletproof, but then on the other hand to keep that reliability theres a hell of a lot of servicing and care needed. Im glad ive got mine but i also do have, mortgage, full time job, 3 children, house to renovate etc etc.....

+ also id happily buy and fit a MCCT but im not confident enough to do it from a text file - are there any pics. Also its gonna be tough convincing the wife i need to buy stuff for it after only having it for a week...

You should go on "YOUTUBE", and in the search box type this-> DRZ400 manual cam chain tensioner

There is a also a nice step by step video for the 3X3 modification. Just type in the YOUTUBE search box-> Suzuki DRZ400 3x3 mod:worthy:

Don't forget to save these videos in your favorites on your computer, or bookmark them. You know what I mean. :banana:

I hope this helps you. It would also be a good idea for you to read as many of the post in this forum about both subjects. :banana:

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Damn it man, I guess Im going to have to sell mine.

This was sarcasm. :worthy:

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i have a new engine now, should be back on the road in a couple of days YIPPEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!!!!!!

What model year is your bike? How many miles did it have? Thanks.

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Hey GOF1 - i never said anything of the sort - look in the quote that was pasted in...it was from someone else!

If you read what i said - i was questioning the reliability, some say they are bulletproof, but then on the other hand to keep that reliability theres a hell of a lot of servicing and care needed. Im glad ive got mine but i also do have, mortgage, full time job, 3 children, house to renovate etc etc.....

+ also id happily buy and fit a MCCT but im not confident enough to do it from a text file - are there any pics. Also its gonna be tough convincing the wife i need to buy stuff for it after only having it for a week...

Sorry, my annoyance was not for you. It was for the guy that told you if it ain't broke don't fix it. You know the guy. The same one who ignored the noise in his engine. The engine that is now toast.

Do yourself a favor. Follow the recommendations in the FAQ. You won't regret it.

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Well, ive ordered the MCCT - its apparently in the post now - ive been conditioned into getting it fitted no matter what....so before i even start this is something that i can literally unbolt and then stick in - or no...?

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i did read through the text file in the how to but didnt really understand - i like pictures....although as i said someone i work with has done this before on other bikes so i should be ok....

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Yes, it's a relatively simple mod to do.

Instead of a spring-loaded actuator that pushes the adjuster out against the timing chain, there's a bolt (the actuator) you turn to tighten the timing chain, and a jam-nut to keep the bolt from loosening once it's set. The biggest issue here is not to over-tighten the bolt as it will stretch the chain (with obvious future results...). So basically, tighten it until the chain noise "just barely" goes away, and stop, then set the jam-nut. FWIW, I've always "final-adjusted" MCCTs when the engine is running (slightly back from the "quiet point"), rather than leaving it 1/4 turn back from the finger-tensioned position as stated in the TT store instructions for the DRZ MCCT.

That said, I can't tell you how to do this any better than the instructions on how to install and set the MCCT, and you should follow those instructions more than the general info that I posted just now. The installation and adjustment info is all there - like Prego.

Well, DO make sure that the actuator bolt is backed off before you tighten the mounting bolts or you're guaranteed to stretch the chain. AND if you do accidentally stretch the timing chain, go get a new one and start over. it's cheap insurance.

gl! :worthy:

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So, based on what youve just said - i dont need to get anything to "top dead center" and all that malarkey.....just take the existing one out - put the new one in, tighten it up till i can feel it hit the chain in side - start the engine and then tighten til it sounds like it did before i started....yes?

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So, based on what youve just said - i dont need to get anything to "top dead center" and all that malarkey.....just take the existing one out - put the new one in, tighten it up till i can feel it hit the chain in side - start the engine and then tighten til it sounds like it did before i started....yes?

You can do it any way you want. It’s your bike, and your modification. As you feel the need to ask how to install it (nothing wrong with that) I would highly recommend you install it as is written in the FAQ. It is a very simple procedure to follow that will keep someone unfamiliar with this motor from making a simple mistake that can cost you a motor.

Ultimately it’s your call; you can take any number of short cuts, and still install the MCCT with success. You can also end up with cam timing off and a destroyed motor.

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