Removing rear wheel bearing?

While in the process of greasing my wheel bearings I happend to damage the seal on the bearing it self. I have a whole new bearing with all the seals, and I was wondering if I should just take the seal off of the new bearing and put it on the old one, or remove the old one and put the new one in it's place. How do I even remove the old bearing?

you should be fine using the new seal on it.. but to remove the old bearings you need to remove the bearing retainer (threaded in) using a square punch or the motion pro retainer socket.. then u need a bearing puller to remove the bearings themselves.. as with the R's i believe the X uses 3 bearings for the rear hub as well..

Yeah the x's use 3 also. Thanks

You don't need a puller if your handy with a old screwdriver...I've changed my bearing many times without a puller. Note,, a puller would be much nicer though.

You don't need a puller if your handy with a old screwdriver...I've changed my bearing many times without a puller. Note,, a puller would be much nicer though.

yes you can use a punch or something of some sort to remove the bearings... so much easier with a puller.. if you use a punch take care to not dig into the hub when doing it..

You don't need a puller if your handy with a old screwdriver...I've changed my bearing many times without a puller. Note,, a puller would be much nicer though.

+1000:thumbsup: :worthy: or an extension off a socket set works good, doesnt take much

Don't forget to drill out the staking on the bearing retainer. The retainer was locked into place by staking it with a punch , this keeps it from coming loose. Look for a spot on the retainer right on the outside where the threads are. It will look like someone center punched it. Drill this out with a 1/8 bit. You may have to drill about 1/8 deep. You can twist, beat hammer and the retainer will not budge normally. If it was staked right it will not move. It will destroy the threads on the hub and make it real hard to install a new retainer if you did not remove the staking !!!

I failed to drill out the staking and mangled my hub's threads while removing the retainer. with the help of 'ArkEnduroRider', I was able to salvage my hub and reinstall the retainer PERFECTLY.

1) use a dremmel tool or tiny metal file to smooth out the rough edges of the hub and/or the first destroyed thread.

2) with a thread file, you can clean-up or recut the first thread (starting thread)

3) apply anti-seize to both the hub and a new retainer

4) slowly work the new retainer into the hub cutting/cleaning the damaged threads (1/8" turn in and out)

5) clean everything up, apply more anti-seize and reinstall the retainer

other suggestions from 'ArkEnduroRider' included using fine grit metal sandpaper to clean in between the threads. I found a fine metal pick also worked well to remove large deposits of aluminum left by the damaged retainer

As for using a screwdriver or some kind of punch to remove bearings, it's possible but I have destroyed hubs using this method (pushing out the bearing crooked and destroying the hub). The same goes for installing new bearings. I've used sockets and a hammer and also destroyed hubs driving the bearings in 'crooked'.

I have since bought the Factory Honda Tools for installing the bearings, removing the bearings, and installing/uninstalling the retainer. They're a bit costly but they're beautiful tools and work flawlessly; I think it's worth the investment. In addition to using the correct tools, I recommend heating up the hub with a torch to allow the aluminum to expand (bearings install and uninstall much easier). When I can, I freeze my new bearings before installing them. I've heard tales of bearings just dropping into the hub when the hub is heated and the bearing is frozen but I've never experienced it first hand.. the heat and cold certainly does help though.

Anyways, Thumpertalk and ArkEnduroRider help me out tremendously when I thought I had completely destroyed my hub; I just wanted to say thanks and pass something along.

I just used the 'pivot works method' to change my rear wheel bearings (in a cr80 chassis) and it worked perfectly. I was kind of at a loss with what to do about the spacer and then they say, just wack sideways on the punch to move the spacer where you want...seems obvious now. They both came out pretty easily with the punch on the inner race and went in easily with the correct sized sockets. I was amazed at how fast it is compared to swingarm bearings or something.

I know this isn't a crf250x but this was the best thread on removing wheel bearings period, so I thought I'd comment.

Afterr screwing one of the bearing retainers all up with a punch, I decided to get the star tool that works with a 3/8 square drive, and of course the Motion Pro blind hole bearing puller set. It's actually fun to replacec the bearings now.

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