What about aluminum sprockets on four strokes?

Renthal sprocket lasted about 25 hrs, Talon sprocket and X-Ring chain 60 hrs so far. I lube my X-Ring with WD-40 to keep it from rusting after cleaning. Mike

Sprocket specialists.


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I am also running the Tucker Rocky bikemaster brand o-ring chain which is repackaged ek.

Total price for this chain is like 45$retail.

Not as pretty as a gold did but it is cheap.

BTW, this combo ran my 1400mile baja trip w/o a chain adjustment and I wasn't riding it like a pw50.

The chain and sprockets still look good and it allows me the $$ to buy more sprockets for more gearing combos.

Sprocket specalists kick butt I had a rear for over 1 year with a sunstar counter shaft. Stock did o ring chain lasted 2 years,with wd40 for chain lube.

Most of the people I see that swear they perform proper adjustment,cleaning, and lubrication yet can't get a chain and sprocket set to last, are missing one of the points.

In most cases people only "think" they are adjusting their chain and sprockets properly.

9-out of-10 will have their chain too tight, causing a quick demise of the set.

With proper care and adjustments, a standard aluminum rear sprocket will last and last.

If you keep a good eye on your chain, and not let it elongate past 2% of the new length before chainging out, you can keep the sprockets on the bike. If there is no visible wear on the sprocket teeth, then there is no reason to change them out too.

Had a Moose aluminum one on my WR426F and it did degrade much quicker. I was anal on keeping the chain free of gunk and only using a light lube, relying more so on the rollers. The gunk can grind them away too. We have a hot water washer at work and I'll toss my chain in there from time to time. Also keeps it looking new. The light oil just keep it from rusting. I will use steel from here forward, but I trail ride. If I was racing and weight was a big poriority, maybe aluminum

Why lube an O-ring chain?? you're just asking for trouble.

The O-rings only keep grease in and dirt out of the pins. The side plates still need to be lubricated to prevent binding and premature wear. Also, the lube keeps the o-rings from drying out and disintegrating. The problem with chain lube is most people don't know how to apply it. They simply squirt the stuff on and forget it or they put it in places where it does no good. Proper chain lubing means spraying the side plates on both sides then wiping the entire chain down so that only a thin film of lube remains. If you are getting lube all over your swingarm from centrifugal force when riding, you're using too much lube. Spraying the chain down the center on the rollers of a chain (as most people do) is a waste of lube. The rollers do not need lubing for proper operation although a light film of lube will prevent them from rusting. Using too much lube will only cause dirt to stick to the chain, crud to build up on the sprockets, and flyoff to splatter your bike. Do it right and you'll get much more life from your chain and sprockets. Running any type of chain dry on a regular basis will shorten its life. Also, using a wire brush on an o-ring chain can damage the o-rings. Regular cleaning and proper lubing is the key to long chain life.



The O-rings only keep grease in and dirt out of the pins. RADRick


Agreed, and the only reason I do lube my Xring chain is to keep it all from rusting,. I use a light oil, just to "coat" it. Rust will grind down sprockets as fast as dirt filled grease/gunk

I run talon sprockets on all my 450s and a high tensile strenght chain. Wears great. Probably have over 80 hours on the whole set. Always keep my chain lubed and clean.:cry:

i think taking off that plastic countershaft protector helps,that thing just holds the mud in and thats not good:thumbsdn: i wear carhardts over my boots and i've not got them caught in there yet. that could get ugly though:eek: might start duct taping the bottoms,heck of an idea!!:cry: i run the ironmans,same wieght as aluminum but much stronger.

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