Suspension for plus size models

I am curious if anyone has changed there springs yet. I am 6'2" and 210 lbs and was told to go with a 5.8kg spring on the rear and .47kg springs in front. The 5.8 is working great on the rear but I was unable to find the .47's for the front and purchased .48's instead. The .48's were a total disaster. In two hare scrambles were I should I have bottomed several times I finished with about 2 1/2" to 3"'s travel never used. I pulled these springs and put the stock .46's in with a 10mm spacer. This was a big improvement over both stock and the .48's.

Before I go any further I wanted to hear what others have come up with.

I am 235 have not decided on springs yet either. My buddy owns Shock Therapy here in Michigan and says they changed the linkage ratio enough to not use my old spring rates. We will be taking some measurments soon, maybe I can help then. Where is your oil level? Did you get it clicked in good? ---Mike

Go to your local Yamaha dealer, as they can order them under part number 5GR-23141-00-00. The retail price is $ 49.60 each. This part number is for K=0.47. At this moment there appears to be good inventory across the US.

Hey Utvols,

I am using the race tech 5.8 rear with the stock front springs and it works well for my 220lbs + gear. I tried the .48 springs and did not like them. Race tech said we would need revalving to get it to work the way you might want it. I like the stock front set up. I thought it would not work with the 5.8 rear but the combination works for me.

Hi utvols! I want to change my springs also.I figure I could handle changing the rear spring but didn't know how hard the forks would be to change. I heard you couldn't increase the rear spring rate without doing the fronts. I am 6' tall and 210 lbs.and not sure as to what springs to buy. From what I am reading the 48's will be too stiff for me to. :)

The oil level is still stock. I did tear the forks down and change the oil when I did the springs but I wanted to see how the springs worked before I started playing with oil level. I have the comp. 15 clicks out & reb. 10 clicks out on the forks right now. With the 10mm spacer this works alot better in the fast stuff but I have lost some of the tracking and plushness of the stock set-up. I will probally pull one of my spacers out (total of 3 now) and start playing with oil height to stop bottoming. I have been pleasantly surprised by the overall valving of both the front and rear. I am just looking for a nice balance between hi and low speed riding. If all I did was the slow stuff the stock susp. would be perfect. However the racing we do around here is usually a combo of both and this bike will wear you out in the hi speed stuff with stock susp. It is just to soft for my size.

Like everything else about this bike it is so close to being perfect. I have enjoyed the tinkering and I feel I am pretty close to solvng this issue.

I'm 240lbs and racing MX. and put in Factory Connection .49 kg front springs. (Oil Ht.= 4.8"(stock) Bottomed too much), Oil level = 3.15" Rebound= 8 clicks out.

I put in Factory Connection 5.8 kg 10-3/4" Free length Yellow, Set spring 10.375" preload. (Do not exceed .6" preload!) Rebound = 7 clicks out, Low compression 6 clicks out, High compression 1-1/8 turns out (standard)

Worked great for me. :)

Steve Ross Factory Connection 800-221-7560

Utvols, your post is very infomative but does not answer the most important question. How hard is it too change the springs in the forks? I am VERY mechanicly inclined but have not disassembled a bike fork in my 38 years of existence. :)

It is not hard at all. I did it on the bike. Just remove your handle bars and loosen the upper clamp. Turn your rebound cickers all the way full hard(very important) and remove the top cap. The most important thing is to take care of the threads as they are very fine and will strip leaving fine alum. particles floating in your forks. Once the cap is out pull down on the springs and put a wrench on the lock nut below the rebound cartridge. Screw cartridge off and slide springs out. Reverse process and your done.

Thats a little simple but gives you the basic idea. Get someone to walk you thru it once and you will not be afraid to change your own springs again. Start to finish is less than 30 minute job. Completely tearing down forks is not much more dificult if you have the space and method for dealing with cleaning and disposing of fork oil.


I am at 250lbs, I have not set the sag yet. I wanted to switch to a 6.0 rear spring. I was going to do this before I went through an entire revalve process.

Do I need to have the rear re-valved? I don't race a lot and when I do it's going to be mostly enduro type riding. I dont even know which clickers are which, and what effect they have on the suspension. When I have messed with them, I have noticed no difference at all.

opinions on this subject would be a great help in the decision making process.



Turn your rebound cickers all the way full hard(very important) and remove the top cap.

Is this something new? I have never heard that this was important but it would make sense to have to "zero" out the settings. Can you elaborate on this? Thanks.


Your dampening adjustments should cover your 6.0 spring for trail riding just fine. You will most likely want to go higher than the stock settings for dampening. Experiment with one adjustment at a time until you like the handling. I am going to have mine revalved over the winter. But I use the 5.8 spring with the stock valving.

If you do not zero out the rebound clickers when you put it back together you will create a different rebound point adjustment for each fork. Not to mention that you can effect the amount of rebound adjustment you will have. In theory if you do it right the screw or knob will be in the same spot on each fork so you can tell that you have the same setting on each leg.

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