For 96-2009 DR650SE's In a word... Nice! Expectations: If you were hoping these mods would turn your DR650 into a high RPM peak HP beast you should stop reading right now and instead go try to shoehorn a GSXR engine in your DR's frame. My insperation for doing this was generated by a leaky base gasket. Just like most of my other endevours it all starts by something pissing me off about my bike..... BST huck-a-buck, Stock Buick Muffler tonnage, etc. But I could not bring myself to only replace the base gasket. My goal was not to destroy the best part of the big DR's power... the awesome low to mid range torque. I decided to go ahead and do some head work while I had it apart but only matching and cleaning work... no port hogging. The head certainly needed some TLC in it's stock form. The valve seat to cylinder head transitions are pretty bleak and there are the typical casting goobers in both the intake and exhaust ports. I matched the intake manifold to the head but, other than clean up and polishing, I did not open the exhaust port any more. I had a nice multi-angle valve grind job done at FastBikes where I did my dyno testing with the FCR carbs. Fresh valve seals were the only new parts required. The std bore J&E HC piston and Web cam were bought from Procycle (I have a cam core if anyone needs one) and I went to my local Suzy shop for the gasket set (I just went ahead and bought a complete set so I'll have a clutch cover gasket, etc), valve seals, valve cover bolt seals, cam end seal, cam locking tab and oil cooler orings. I used Permatex copper coat on the base gasket, head gasket and head bolt washers. It sure is nice to have a totally leak free dry engine again. I know... shut up and get to the good part! I put 65 miles on it yesterday after getting it all back together. Torque! Like others have posted the stock powerband doesn't seem changed... it just moved up the food chain a ways. From thump-thumping out from a stop to roll-on torque there is just more on tap everywhere. Obviously more power is available up top as well but, just like the stock engine, its not the strong part of the powerband. The roll-on torque is a riot out of turns and my nearly new Kings rear tire was no match breaking away easily. I can see this being a huge asset for the SM guys shaming all of those superbikes in the tight twisties. Some of you probably know I run 14/42 gearing on my bike because I like to hit the dirt trails. All I can say is this gearing is almost annoying with these engine mods on the street. It quickly runs through the gears leaving you wanting another one. You 15 and 16 toother folks will really like this mod. Some other notes: I'm breaking it in with straight 30wt Valvoline dino oil. The first 50 miles I upped the idle to 2k as Web says to do. (they don't specify for how long but I figured 50 miles was a nice round number) The idle is nice and consistant.... maybe even better than stock? (or it's all in my head) I have made no jetting changes or adjustments on my FCR from how it was before the engine mods but after reducing the idle back to 1500 RPM I noticed even less decel popping than with the stock engine internals. Not that it did much of that before but it seems even better. I'll keep an ear on this but I'm wondering if the increased vacuum generated by the smaller total combustion chamber volume is holding the Air Cut Valve open wider... or at least for a longer duration before the spring closes it. Heck, maybe its a cam duration thing....... Interesting. I'll post some follow-up reports once I get some more miles logged. It's going to be interesting to get this thing back on the dyno again. I plan on testing the 01/02 GSXR pipe in both flavors (Hindle and TwoBrothers) just for giggles and, of course, the big FCR. Oh yeah, If your were thinking of doing these mods anyway don't wait for the dyno report... just do it. My recently calibrated seat-o-the-pants dyno says you won't regret it.