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J&E HC Piston and Web Cam

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mx_rob makes good points about 520 vs 525 chain. One thing to keep in mind if you think you might take your DR on some very long rides and find yourself in need of a chain somewhere in BFE it might be pretty hard to find a shop that has a 525 replacement chain in stock. For years our shop was the only one in the area (population about 250K) that stocked a 525 chain. We only kept one and we only kept it because none of the other shops did. Seems like every time I sold one of those chains the buyer had already called all the big shops in the area and was already convinced he wasn't going to find a chain. If you are running a 520 chain then just about any bike shop anywhere will have a chain to get you back on the road.

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I know this is hugely off topic but I did the swap to 520 with JT steel sprockets and an RK x-ring chain and it wore out with less than 10,000 miles and it also jumped off one of the sprockets and put a hole in my case. Since then I have swapped back to DID but went gold X-ring 525 with Jesse's sprockets in steel and I've adjusted them twice in 11,000 miles! I don't plan on swapping to anything less than the good stuff for the forseeable future!

Is there a need to replace springs with the new cam? Especially with 60k miles on the head?

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Is there a need to replace springs with the new cam? Especially with 60k miles on the head?

At 60K it would be a good idea to replace the springs. They're cheap.

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Alright lowercasee... you even sucked me into derailing this post. :banana::smirk:

Back to the OP's subject... :) So I filled the beast up with a no-name brand 87 octane. I can't get the thing to detonate or keep the front wheel on the ground. :D In fact, I think it does better than the stocker because I could get the stocker to ping every now and then thumping away from a stop (Low RPM and high load) running 87. Now the thing just tractors away without a hick-up and pulls right to the rev-limiter on 87. As stated by bergman501, and others, 87 octane is all that is required. Very cool. :thumbsup:

I hit some very tight twisties in this morning's ride.... the roll-on 2nd gear wheelies exiting turns are way too much fun. :p And they were 10 cents a gallon cheaper. :worthy::ride:

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Alright lowercasee... you even sucked me into derailing this post. :lol::ride:

Back to the OP's subject... :) So I filled the beast up with a no-name brand 87 octane. I can't get the thing to detonate or keep the front wheel on the ground. :D In fact, I think it does better than the stocker because I could get the stocker to ping every now and then thumping away from a stop (Low RPM and high load) running 87. Now the thing just tractors away without a hick-up and pulls right to the rev-limiter on 87. As stated by bergman501, and others, 87 octane is all that is required. Very cool. :thumbsup:

I hit some very tight twisties in this morning's ride.... the roll-on 2nd gear wheelies exiting turns are way too much fun. :p And they were 10 cents a gallon cheaper. :worthy::banana:

I wonder if my engine will make it to 100k miles with these mods :smirk:

Thanks for the vicarious wheelies!

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I wonder if my engine will make it to 100k miles with these mods :thumbsup:

Thanks for the vicarious wheelies!

LOL! I'm just gonna have to mount up the GoPro and take everyone for a ride sometime. :worthy:

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LOL! I'm just gonna have to mount up the GoPro and take everyone for a ride sometime. :thumbsup:

Road view, sky view, road view, sky view, road view :worthy:

Cant wait Rob.

Mezo.

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Interesting! Michigan foiled my plans to take my RM to a motocross track this weekend by raining mid-week on. Not a big glop fan. :p

So instead I put some mileage on the DR650. Today was a beautiful partly cloudy ride. I put about 200 miles on it total. As you know I'm running 87 octane regular and I run 14/42 gearing.

The first tank took 2.05 gallons to go 102 miles for aprrox 49.8 mpg. There was quite a bit of spirited riding with a lot of my favorite twisties and dirt road sections. The second tank took 2.10 gallons to go 110 miles for approx 52.4 mpg. This is the highest mileage I have ever got on this motorcycle. :lol: The second tank was higher speeds 50-75 mph on open country roads and highways and maybe 10% in town riding. Since I did nothing to my FCR... not even a pilot screw adjustment, I can say without a doubt that these mods have increased fuel mileage on my bike. Not surprisingly I did a data logger record session and the average A/F at cruise throttle positions is higher now than on my original testing. Wow! So you mean that increasing engine efficiency through increased compression, better cam timing and breathing actually can increase fuel mileage? Who woulda thunk it? :)

Notes: This thing is great... the more miles I put on it the better I like it. It's smoother, faster and produces a boat load of torque over stock. Fun factor has increased exponentially. :ride:

Last note: OMG I need my Renazco seat! :lol: My build date is fast approaching. :)

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So you mean that increasing engine efficiency through increased compression, better cam timing and breathing actually can increase fuel mileage? Who woulda thunk it? :)

Last note: OMG I need my Renazco seat! :lol: My build date is fast approaching. :)

Nice one Rob, my dad always said the engine is more efficient once race tuned :ride:

My seat arrives tommorow hopefully, Chris sent me a snek preview of my seat, its the one on the right, all black, vinyl sides, suede top, black stitching & white logo, cant wait for the postie to knock :lol:

Renazco%20Seat.jpg

Mezo.

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Nice one Rob, my dad always said the engine is more efficient once race tuned :ride:

My seat arrives tommorow hopefully, Chris sent me a snek preview of my seat, its the one on the right, all black, vinyl sides, suede top, black stitching & white logo, cant wait for the postie to knock :)

Mezo.

Nice! :lol: I got my reminder today (calendar) to ship the seat to Chris. I can't wait. :)

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Nice! :ride: I got my reminder today (calendar) to ship the seat to Chris. I can't wait. :)

I got my Renazco seat back in April. Probably one of the best mods I've done. I'd say it's well worth the bucks. I've done three (I think) 500 mile trips (one day) since then. 8 hours on the bike, plus two 30 minute rest stops for refuel, and 52 MPG on the interstate at 65 to 70 MPH (JE HC piston and Web camshaft). Oh yeah, and the Parabellum windshield makes it all bearable.

Back on topic, I did notice about a two to three MPG increase after I installed the Web cam and HC piston. I did the "spirited" breakin, but didn't do anything more than that. Hopefully she's not burning too much oil, but she's definitely much more spunky!

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MxRob,

This upgrade sounds pretty intriguing, but I’m a little worried about the coating inside the cylinder. I’m not that familiar with coatings such as this other than understanding its purpose. Can it be honed? If it can, do you have any idea as to how much it shortens the longevity of the cylinder? If it can’t be honed, how do the new rings seat?

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MxRob,

This upgrade sounds pretty intriguing, but I’m a little worried about the coating inside the cylinder. I’m not that familiar with coatings such as this other than understanding its purpose. Can it be honed? If it can, do you have any idea as to how much it shortens the longevity of the cylinder? If it can’t be honed, how do the new rings seat?

Yes, all we are doing is breaking the glaze. There are specific hones for taking the glaze off of a plated cylinder (or at least ones that are best suited for the job). As long as you don't take your cylinder to a Briggs & Stratton lawn mover shop you should find someone with a "Brush Flex-Hone" or Ball hone. The Nickel Silicone Carbide is pretty tough stuff.... not too much to worry about. An experienced engine builder knows what to do. :busted:

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This upgrade sounds pretty intriguing, but I’m a little worried about the coating inside the cylinder. I’m not that familiar with coatings such as this other than understanding its purpose. Can it be honed? If it can, do you have any idea as to how much it shortens the longevity of the cylinder? If it can’t be honed, how do the new rings seat?

I bought a 2002 brand new.

At 300 miles I had the engine apart for the webcam and JE 10.5:1 piston.

I also went ahead and put a supertrapp, K&N filter and a Factory Pro carb kit on at the same time.

So I guess I really don't know how a stock DR650 runs:thumbsup:

I really can never leave things alone, but to answer the above question, well lets say I am glad I did the mods right away.

I am a Machinist, Tool & Die maker, when I pulled the stock motor apart I measured the piston clearance.

3 to 5 Microns, yes that is right, about 2 ten thousands of an inch.

I rebuild 2 strokes and hone them to between 1 and 2 to 1 and 6 tenths(0.0016") clearance and that is on 64 mm pistons,

a 100 mm Piston probably needs more.

.

I couldn't believe the factory shipped an engine like this.

Because of the tight clearance, the Nikasil was kind of marked up.

.

I took the cylinder and piston to the shop to show them and they said "oh, you probably had a cold seizure",

like I don't know how to ride a bike (warm it up).

Anyway they said I had already voided my warranty with the cam and piston so I should just go away.

.

When I went to put the carb kit in I found that the diaphragm in the carb was installed wrong at the factory,

it had a corner bent over and clamped down on so it was permanently distorted and it leaked like hell.

The shop made me pay $38 for a new one.

I don't go to that shop anymore:bonk:.

.

To answer the question, Nikasil is tough stuff.

I had my cylinder in a lathe and polished it with 220 and then 400 grit emory for a half hour.

The marks went away, but I could not measure the difference, not even 1 micron.

I would recommend that you do not use any type of hone on Nikasil.

Just hand sand it with emory or even scotchbrite, in a sink, under running water.

I always add a little Dawn (dishwashing liquid) to the scotchbrite pad when I do this.

Actually you do not have to do anything to it if there are no marks on it, the rings will seat just fine.

Do not use synthetic oil, or even things like a little Lucas oil treatment for the first 200 miles.

And by all means get on it hard for short bursts all during the first tankful.

.

The setup I have now, along with an opened up airbox and I elongated the holes on the ignition pickup

but could only gain a degree or two, is scary powerful:busted:

.

I thought the engine was running out of breath too soon, until I found out about the rev limit point.

A 16 tooth sprocket really fixed that.

I also put an electronic tach on the bike.

I bought it from Jegs and it is for "Junior Dragsters".

It says "Briggs & Stratton only" on the side of it:doh: but it works well.

.

I highly recommend the Piston and Cam swap, you will love the powerband.

And PS. you will be replacing the piston and rings before the Nikasil wears at all.

Dave

Also, I build hot 2stroke engines that use race fuel.

I usually put a little bit of that in the tank to "spruce up" pump gas.

I am probably just paranoid.

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So is there honing that needs done the cylinder for the HC piston then?

Just remove the glaze so the rings can seat. Any motorcycle shop worth it's salt can do this for you. :busted:

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MX rob hows the new stuff on the dr doing have u dyno it yet the last time u

dyno what were some of the # i saw a older shot of your dr with

a fmf can on it do u still have that set up and ever think about cutten it down

along with a big header pipe combo along with your engine mods makes me wounder what it would run like thankx for any info.

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