Anyone got any suggestions?

I've got another blown fork seal and the bike is about 2 years old now so I suppose it was about time. My question is does anyone have a method of replacing these seals and getting fluid level right that they can explain in short order? I paid eighty four dollars to get the left side replaced about a month ago and I know there's a cheaper way but I also know forks are tempramental and I don't want to louse anything up! I've got a great selection of tools but I'm not sure if there is any specialized tools I would need so....Any help you could give would be appreciated on my 01' WR 426

if you have the manual there is step by step instructions on rebuilding your forks, it's not to hard but it is messy, you dont need any special tools, if you want some good advice, every time before you ride open the air bleed screw on the top of the forks and release any pressure that is in there, this will lenghten the life of your seals, also it is a good idea to bleed them when you are finished riding. also if you are not going to ride for a while store your bike on a stand with the wheels off the ground, this will also help.

you dont need any special tools

I beg to differ. A seal driver, and a cartridge rod holding tool** make it real easy. You can make a seal driver out of PVC...BUT a real seal driver CANNOT be beat. I have heard of guys having problems w/ PVC.

See Garrret's website. I believe he has instructions to make a seal driver and a cartridge rod holding tool.

**an air operated impact should suffice. The trick is to spin the bolt faster than the rod spins inside your fork. I used a handheld impact wrench while compressing the fork leg to spin out the bolt. I did use an air wrench however to put it back together.

I agree with NH_Kevin. I used to use PVC as a seal driver and it worked OK. I finally broke down and bought a real seal driver and I couldn't believe how easy it is to replace the seal. Two hits and it's done. I just follow the manual for replacing the seals and oil. I use a syringe (sp?) with a tube on the end to get the level where I want it. I have had to do it twice on my WR450 those Yamaha seals! :):D

I don't know what you mean by bleeding the forks am I correct in saying that you have to open the bleed screws or remove them completly and compress the forks? Stay tuned I still have a few more questions I am trying to ingest this one step at a time.

you must follow the procedure in your manual. Bleeding the forks, unless I am out in left field, is priming the forks(?)

You are supposed to add half the oil into your fork leg and pump the fork up and down while covering up the top of the fork w/ the palm of your hand. This compresses the fork forcing the oil up into the cartridge.

If you don't do a THOROUGH job, your oil levels can be waaay out of whack. You can tell the cartridge is full by running it through it's full stroke. It should be smooth all the way through, and not all of a sudden lift up quickly. This means you still need more oil drawn up into the cartridge. All of this should be in your manual.

Any questions...just holler!! :)

Just open the peice on top of the forks that looks like an air valve. The fork builds up air pressure when riding, and/or compressed when tied down. Just crack them and bleed the pressurized air out.

It is important that the bike not be under it's own weight while bleeding the air. Those bleeders are designed to equal the fork to atmospheric pressure. If you bleed the fork when the wheight of the bike is on the fork you will create a vaccum when fork decompresses.

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