I decided to get rid of all of the standard bulbs on my bike.... if not for amp savings then for the durability of LEDs. It also seemed logical to me to install the electronic flasher instead of resistors so there will be an actual charging system gain for future power resources. I've always disliked the position of the indicator panel on the DR650..... hiding there behind the throttle cables... so I moved it to just in front of the crossbar with an aluminum bracket that I made and mounted on the forward handlebar clamp bolts. I installed 3 standard LEDs in the panel. One each 74-G, 74-A and 74-B (green, amber, blue). They are daylight viewable but not eye piercing at night. I went with the brighter 74-WHP (white high power) LED for the instrument light. I did order the 74-CWHP3 (it has 3 HP LEDs) but it was crazy bright and the instrument about blinds you at night with this bulb. The 74-WHP gives a very nice white look and is much nicer than the stock bulb. I used a small amount of liquid electrical tape around each bulb base to socket joint after pushing them into position just to water proof and reduce vibration. Be sure to check that the bulb works before sealing them in since LEDs do have polarity. I used a 24 LED Red 1157 tail light bulb that has some forward facing LEDs for better reflection in the DRZ250 tail light assembly (P/N 1157-R24). The previous part numbers are from Superbrightleds.com. $1.19 for the STD's, $2.49 for the HP and $7.49 for the tail light bulb. I needed my single flasher indicator to work so I installed a Kuryakyn 4709 diode kit in the flasher indicator bulb circuit. I bought mine from Bikerhiway.com for $7. DennisKirk and many others stock these diode kits. I removed the headlight/number plate cowl and just followed the wires back from the indicator panel until it hit a plugged connector. On the main harness side of the connector I cut the light green w/gray dashes wire and the black w/gray dashes wire a ways back from the connector. (the wires actually change at the connector to black w/light green stripe and solid black on the instrument panel side of the connector. One of the clipped wires (doesn't matter which one) that lead to the instrument panel needs to be hooked to ground. I used the available black w/white stripe (ground) wire in the cowling connector group and hooked it to the black wire. The solid green wire that goes to the panel hooks to the blue wire on the diode kit. The other two red wires from the diode kit hook to the wiring harness side of the clipped green and black wires. Test your panel indicator.... if it doesn't light pull the bulb and spin it 180 degrees. Now for the turn signals. I wanted a quality flexible shaft indicator that still stuck out a ways instead of the flush mount units. I went with the DRC MOTOLED 602 smoked lens flashers (P/N D45-60-208). I bought mine from wheelingcyclesupply.com for $39.95 a set. Not cheap but they are really nice units. I've gone through two sets of phillips aftermarket turn signals so the extra money is well spent IMO. I turned my ProMotoBillet rack flasher brackets around backwards to bring the flashers in closer to the fender. They are recessed enough to not break off but do stick out enough to get the attention of motorists behind me. The smoked lenses are pretty cool. The flashers have a nice long sheathed wire that I was able to run all the way up to the stock connectors under the seat so there is no spliced connections under the fender to get water in and corrode. I just cut the wires and soldered the stock flasher connectors onto the Motoled wires and then heat shrunk everything. Nicely plug and play for when you need to remove things. I used the Customled.com model ELFR-1 electronic flasher ($19.98). It is totally plug and play and fits in the stock rubber flasher holder. Easy! Now all I have to do is install a HID headlamp. I should have plenty of current capacity for heated grips and a vest after that.