flywheel removal help

i installed the flywheel puller on the flywheel. which way do i turn to loosen it. do i just turn the bolt at the edn of the puller clockwise while holdind the flywheel in place?

Ummm, sounds about right to me. Just tighten the smaller inner bolt while holding the larger outer bolt.

Yes tighten the puller so that is pushes against the crank and pulls the flywheel off. The outer part of the puller threads into the flywheel and pulls, while the inner part pushes against the I right? I think that is how it works. I have a WR so it's a little different but that is usually how it works on motocross bikes

i realized that i didnt take the rotor nut off so pulled the flywheel puller off. i was unable to get this nut off. the flywheel holder keeps popping off and the nut seems to be on pretty tight. any tricks to getting that nut off?

got it off. what i was doing wrong was just trying to torque it loose instead of smacking the rachet with a hammer to break it loose. thanks for your help. now i got the engine off and im waiting on parts. should i split the cases before the parts arrive or just wait?

Really it is your choice. But, if you don't have the room to set everything in order as you take it apart, I would leave it together until you are ready.

One advantage of taking it apart now, is that you can inspect the internals and get other parts you need while waiting for the parts you ordered.

Make certain that you have a lot of ziplock bags and you tag and bag everything as it comes apart. It will save you some serious time when putting it all back together (now where did I put the clutch springs?????).

By the way, have you downloaded a service manual for your bike yet?

no i have the yamaha one that came with the bike. do i need to repace the gear drive that goes on the crank after the bearings, part number 8 in the crank and piston chart? also do i need to buy anything for the balence gear shaft?

Are you talking about the timing gear that is pressed on the crank for the timing chain? You should only have to replace that if it is worn or damaged. Check the teeth for wear or pitting, unlikely that yours has either most of the time they are okay

Oh the other side......those two gears run the balance shaft. Again only replace if worn or damaged. Check out the splines on the inside of the the gears and also on the crank and balance shaft. They will most likely be fine with no wear, but always check.

95% of the time those two gears will be fine unless you had some metal floating free in that area.

Just check them for damage and if nothing looks buggered up, you are most likely fine.

no i have the yamaha one that came with the bike. do i need to repace the gear drive that goes on the crank after the bearings, part number 8 in the crank and piston chart? also do i need to buy anything for the balence gear shaft?

You really should get one of the complete service manuals that are free to download.

Try going here "" and downloading the service manual for your bike. I know that it is available.

i have the actual service manual book, but i also just downloaded it on my compter from that site as well

If you are taking the complete engine down to the cases, buy new lock washers for the clutch, the counterbalance gears, and the idler (between the clutch and crankshaft gears). Get new seals for the shift rod, clutch lever, kick start and output (counter shaft sprocket) shaft. I would also recommend getting new o-rings for the lower oil lines, mine started leaking after removing the lines two different times. I just received all of my bearings and seals yesterday, so I am starting the reassembly (again) of my semi-trusty steed in earnest tonight.

what is good to use to clean inside the engine?

Do you have it apart already?

I prefer to use mineral spirits. Cheap and readily available at any hardware store.

no i just have the motor out of the frame and i removed the flywheel and stator. havent split the cases yet but i might tommorow

is minerial spirts paint thiner? aslo if my cylinder jug feels smooth and its right on spec bore is it necessary to hone it.

If the cylinder has plenty of cross hatching you don't "have" to hone it. I used a scotch brite pad with some ATF to clean mine up and get the glaze off as my cyl had lots of crosshatching there. Worked good for me, also Eric Gorr recomends this method. Most will say you have to hone no matter what. To each his own

wats atf

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now