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how many of you trail...

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Just wondering how many of you guys/gals ride trail? I know my 00 426 is a motorcross bike, and if I want to ride trail I should of got WR, but I didn't. However I did ride my buddy WR and very glad that I got the YZF. I already got most of the goddies on it like flywheel weight, tripple clamp, Pro Taper bar, White E-exhaust and the list goes on. I'm out here in Norther Cal, (Silicon Valley) and most of my close buddies ride trails than motorcross. I went with softer

Eibach spring both front and back also drop a tooth on the counter sproket. Can you guys thinks or suggest of anything eles that I can do so the YZF can be more trail-friendly bike? I guess I can find new riding buddies :) Thanks.

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Lord of the Dirty, I also ride a 00 yz set up for trail (works pretty darn good too) 51 tooth rear sproket and a good set of hand guards should complete your search for trail worthiness...I too live in Silicon Valley if your looking for someone to ride trails with e-mail me at hdyamaha@aol.com

traillord in training, huge

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Hey Howard,

Is that 51 tooth rear with a stock front sprocket? I'm looking to lower my gearing too.

Thanx,

J

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Going down 1 on the front sprocket is like going up 3 on the back sprocket. ~Hit-man~

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Hey Hit-Man,

What would you recommend if I want the change to be noticeable but not overkill?

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I'm thinking of doing a hare scramble or two later this fall, getting too old and brittle for MX. Maybe some guys can chime in here on how their sprocket changes have affected their overall performance. I'm thinking with the stock tranny, that too much of a sprocket change will hurt the top end, which is slow for an XC bike at stock...

Mike

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e-BayThumper, I'm going to go down 1 in the front on mine. I did that on my CR 250 and it worked nice, I think it would be the same for the yz426f. When I bought my yz 426 he had just put a new chain and sprockets on, so I was going to wait til I need a chain to do that. ~Hit-man~

------------------

00'YZ426F 00'XR50R LATER DAYS!!!

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I went down one in the front and to a 51 in the rear. Works great in the woods, hill climbs, and still has plenty of top end.

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Hey Hit-man, It was nice to see you again at TC. You need to come to RC next year.

Mike

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A little flywheel makes trail riding much better because you don't stall nearly as much and are hence allowed to lug lower through nasties.

I just finally did the innermost friction plate replacement thing and my clutch is now from another planet. (put in the funny 2001 3-plate combo instead of the innermost friction plate). That helped immensely for trail riding as the clutch is now completely non-binary and very progressive in engagement.

If you're really into it, mess with your suspension settings to get a more cushy ride (vs being able to jump with confidence you won't bottom).

The tertiary stage of trail adaptation is to drop in 1st, 4th and 5th tranny gear combos from a WR. I haven't done it but have read about it.

A note: if 1st gear is too low, you'll find the power very abrupt and hard to control. I found 13/51 to be that way and went to 14/51. 13/48 which I preiously used was fine but hard on chain and sprockets. I went 14/51 just because I bought new components from wear out.

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theres one more item you really need for off-road/ trail nasties, a full coverage skid mplate, get the moose one, pg 112 in the Dennis Kirk.

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I also have a 00 426 I ride only on trails, and I run the stock rear sprocket with a 2 tooth smaller countershaft sprocket (which makes it a twelve tooth I believe), FMF Power Core Pipe, Works Connection frame and radiator guards, Acerbis Rally Pro handguards, +5 on the main jet and 1 turn out on the fuel screw. This setup works great for me where I go riding, it still gives the bike plenty of pep on the straits but makes it a little more luggable on the tight twisty stuff. If anyone has some ideas on suspension setup I would appreciate them!

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Dirtlord, ebaythumper,

Remember gearing this way;

Gearing down - go down in the front or up in the rear.

Gearing up - go up in the front or down in the rear.

1 tooth in the front is equal to 3 in the rear. Or, conversely 1 tooth in the rear is 1/3 1 in the front.

Front sprockets are 1/3 the price of rears.

Changing the rear more that 2 teeth may require a chain replacement.

Ok, stock for WR and YZ 4..'s is 14/49. I would recommend trying 1 took down in the front first. If that is not enough, try adding 1 tooth larger in the rear. If 1 tooth smaller in the front is too much then try 1 or 2 teeth larger in the rear.

Good Luck!

------------------

99 WR - WR timing, EKN #3, 01 YZ exhaust, Clarke YZ tank, YZ rear fender, IMS YZ seat base, Factory Effex YZ seat foam, Factory Effex graphics and seat cover, Decal works pre-printed numbers, Scotts stabilizer, Scotts upper triple clamp, Pro Taper CR Hi's, Trail Tech Panoram computer, Terry Cable hot start, DSP Carbon Fiber upper fork guards, Fastline Steel braided front brake line, Renthal grips, Cycra Pro-bend hand guards, GYTR triple clamp mounts for hand guards, Moose skid plate, GYTR front disk guard, GYTR plastic frame guards with 3M grip tape, Michelin S-12's, Renthal Groovelite sprokets, DID 520 X-ring chain, TM Designs chain slider, 5.6 Racetech rear shock spring

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I am running 13/51 for scrambles with a 10 oz weight. Still a lot of clutching but it is managable. Our woods are bar banging tight and miles of it.

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