Fork Seal Alternatives??

Does anyone know of how I can get my fork seals to last a few months longer?? I'm going on my 3rd set. It's a hastle. Different company offer something more durable?? I ride more trails and mud than motocross.. 00 YZ426f .. Let me know b4 i order new yamaha ones again ..

Thanks

Jody

SW-Ontario, Canada

You may want to apply waterproof grease between the dust seal and the fork seal. Another way to prolong the seal is to WD-40 the fork before every ride and after every

wash.

You may want to apply waterproof grease between the dust seal and the fork seal. Another way to prolong the seal is to WD-40 the fork before every ride and after every

wash.

<font color="navy">I recently had to replace my seals on my '00 426 too. I leave my bike on my stand when I strap it down in the truck/trailer so I don't compress the forks or shock. Often this is the reason for blown fork seals: overtightening the tie downs that hold you bike. Just my 2 cents.

I live in Port Huron, Michigan which is on the other side of the bridge from Sarnia. How far are you from there?

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~~~~~YaMaHaFoUrTwOsIx~~~~~

[This message has been edited by teamtoxic (edited 06-19-2001).]

What I do is trim about 4mm from the springs on the seals. You can do the dust cover real easy will it's still on the bike. This allows the seal to form tighter around the sliders. It helps if you have some type of greese on them. I got some fancy stuff from white brothers, that is susposed to reduce sticktion. I think any water proof grease would be just as good.

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Rick

01 YZ426F #85 Vet C

I've heard that OEM Honda seals are better. You'll need to find what Hondas came with 46mm KYB's.

I am not sure about the honda seals, I would imagine if the KYB forks were the same model, they would use the same seals. I know for a fact that the Yahmaha and Kawi parts are the same brand/part number seal, made by the same seal manufacturer. I think Kawi is actually a buck cheaper for the same seal.

Ontario,

One member mentioned wiping down with WD-40 after each ride. The idea here is to remove all the hard, crusty dirt that otherwise would go up inside and have it's way with your seals for the first couple of strokes. This means pulling your lower fork guards but I think it's well worth it.

Stace

Thank you all for the great tips.. I did the film negative trick last night.. i'll have to check to see if that helped either of them..

Teamtoxic.. I live in Chatham, about 1 hour from Sarnia..

email jody@maynardfarms.com

or web address www.maynardfarms.com

Thanks again.. Jody

Jody,

Also make sure your forks are aligned. If they are bowed out or in on the axle, this places excessive pressure on one edge of the seal and bushing.

DaveJ

I bought some after market ones from Magics Racing in michigan . I can't remember the name of the seals but they've been holding up ever since ! Just a hint , If the forks seals let go this soon as did mine i would not by factory yamaha seals again ! I live in the Windsor area so if you would like to hook up some time to ride drop me an E-MAIL-

at jhenry@ur.com !

TWIST AND SHOUT !!!

Yes you can use Honda Seals, plus they come with the dust wiper.

You need to get the MAC seal, last letters in the P/N are "MAC", from a 93 CR250

It's very important to align the front wheel properly. Follow this procedure:

With the axle pinch bolts finger tight. Install the front axle and tighen.

Then spin the front wheel (hard) and slam the front brake on. Do this several times (3-5).

Then tighten the left side (caliper side) pinch bolts (17 ft/lbs).

Spin and slam a few more times and tighten the right side pinch bolts.

Install the brake hose cover (11 ft/lbs) and your ready to roost :)

Bill

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99 WR400f, YZ timed, MX-Tech suspension, White Bros E-Series (12 discs), tapered header and a/f. Kouba T-handle for the fuel screw. Works Connection billet throttle tube and frame guards. Cycra Pro-Bend, triple clamp mount handguards. Thumper Racing rad guards, Renthal Jimmy Button highs, YZ Tank and IMS seat, YZ number plate, odo removed, EKP, 48PJ, 175MJ at 500-1000' Thanks James Dean!

Did you check to see if your lower tubes are knicked? Take the fork guards off and feel all around the lower tubes for any bumps or imperfections. A small knick can cause the seals to fail quite rapidly.

i had fork seal problem until a little over a year ago.i solved problem by swithing from yamaha seals to kawasaki seals.yamaha seals are garbage.kawasaki seals costs about twice as much as yamaha but last 10 times as long.1999 kx500 fork seal dimensions are exactly the same as 1998 thru 2000 yz\wr400's seals.i havent had any leaky seals since i switched.

Thanks everone for the pointers.. I have been reading them all.. Turns out the 35mm film trick worked like a charm.. The forks arent' damaged at all.. so that's a good thing.

The oil level was off by about 10mm so I pulled the springs.. compressed the front end, and dumped in some oil and used a Windex trigger that was messured down the stick 130mm and pumped it out till it was at the right level.

Forks are good now, but it looks like it's time for another DID Xring.. think one year is about right for them?? I think so.

Thanks again..

Jody

My trick is to use the NOJ fork seal wipers. They are neoprene shields that velcro together and attach under the guard aligners.

They do not fit tightly enough to keep all the dirt out, which means it won't trap debris either. Someone else mentioned using Panty hose around the seal area with decent success.

The NOJ's hang over the seals and down the tube about 3 inches, thus keeping that area spotless :). These are virtually identical to the holeshot racing guards, but are $13 through Dennis Kirk street catalog as apposed to $20 through holeshot.

Never blew a seal yet, appx 1,000 miles of 75%trail-all muddy to some degree over the last 1.5 years. Knock on wood, but they work!

I only greased the seals when the bike was new. They still look new today

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