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07 Husky TE510 Overheating

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what coolant are you running? if you have too much coolant and not enough water it will not have the same affect and your bike will cook. some ppl think that using straight coolant will keep their bike cool - this has the opposite affect as it needs the water

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I'd vote for checking the water pump as well. I know its an "apples to oranges" comparison, but I have an 06 TC 510 that is stock except for a JD kit that I also mounted the Trail Tech Vapor so that I could keep track of engine temps. Riding in the desert, even on a 100 degree day, as long as I have about 10 mph of air over the radiator, the temp stays below 200. If you have a tail wind negating the air flow, she will get warm, but swing the nose back around into the wind and she cools right off. It is actually pretty amazing haow efficient those radiators are.

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I don't know... I have an '05 TE510 that overheats. Put in a higher pressure radiator cap and it improved (went to 1.3 BAR). Now I have a retrofitted Cannondale fan on it.

I have been reading threads about the modern era Huskys where some folks have repeated overheating problems and the next guy thinks we are crazy as his Never overheats.

I have been quietly working on the problem my self. But, realisticly, I think Husky should come up to the line and admit there is a potential problem. Every major brand has had water cooling for a long time and recurrent problems like we read about all the time beg for a factory solution.

I believe all the new bikes have a fan. Is that true? Certainly, If I had a TC and only used it for racing, I would be surprised if it overheated as its intended use is going fast all the time. But, when you are in some slow single track or clutching up a hill or even just slogging slowly up a long steep hill, If I am riding an enduro style bike (like a TE) I don't expect it to overheat!

Am I wrong?

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Sorry to hi jack a bit but this is relevant.

Can i get a fan from an 08-09 te 450 and put it on an 07 te 450? Do i have to make a a manual switch or can i get a thermostat with the fan and wire that in aswell? If i can do this then im sure you can :moon:

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Installed uptite Y pipe...

installed new silicon hoses / Fyre jacket / FI hose for crossover line.

Rejetted with JD kit.

removed Radiator guards for air flow

Checked impeller / refilled with engine ice.

Cleaned carb, petcock, blah blah

Bike seems to be over the overheating issue, but its only 70 degrees today.

Now when the bike warms up after 30 mins it starts to back fire at high RPM. The longer I ride the worse it gets into all rpm ranges By the time I got back to the truck today it sounded like a popcorn machine. let it cool and its fine.

This is the last chance for this bike... My old CZ was more reliable! any ideas?

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Suggest changing the OEM 1.4 cap for another. If the bike needs to idle for more than 30 seconds turn it off.

The 07s got the lower quality Alexon rads. They invariably leak from the innermost coolant passage. Should you replace one go with the more robust OEM Toyo.

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I bought a fan for my 06 510 from ebay. 4 inch SPAL mounted it with a toggle switch helped a ton. I mounted it on the front of the aluminum radiator gaurds and it pushes air through.

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Installed uptite Y pipe...

installed new silicon hoses / Fyre jacket / FI hose for crossover line.

Rejetted with JD kit.

removed Radiator guards for air flow

Checked impeller / refilled with engine ice.

Cleaned carb, petcock, blah blah

Bike seems to be over the overheating issue, but its only 70 degrees today.

Now when the bike warms up after 30 mins it starts to back fire at high RPM. The longer I ride the worse it gets into all rpm ranges By the time I got back to the truck today it sounded like a popcorn machine. let it cool and its fine.

This is the last chance for this bike... My old CZ was more reliable! any ideas?

I had similar problems with my 2007 initially. I chased it for a while and the ultimate fix was to remove the radiator guards (I replaced with OFG Braces), and leave the Radiator vents ON to increase air flow. I do run Engine Ice as well but the big fix was removing the radiator guards.

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After riding a pretty fast 5th and 6th gear sand road my 09 TE 510 blew the hose that connects the two radiators at the top. She had been running pretty hot ever since new, and during the slower sections of this ride I noticed it slowly filling the overflow tank.

I plan to do desert racing with this bike, so it'll spend a lot more time in top gear in the sand. I am replacing the hose that blew with a heavier hose, as well as the rest of the cooling system hoses. I am worried however that this will just mean that it'll blow at a higher pressure. Could there be a blockage there somewhere? How can I tell if the water pump is working properly without stripping it?

Any help appreciated, Rohan.

The stock crossover hose is a know weak spot in the cooling system. Just replace it with Fuel Injection hose and you'll not havce to worry about it again. Mine blew initially on me and after replaceing I have over 3000 miles without a problem.

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This is what I did to attempt to isolate the problem:

I have the PC-V and Autotune completely removed from the bike, Husky power-up kit installed and am running an FMF Q-4 exhaust w/ quiet insert.

Following the great one's advice (George Uptite) I started the bike w/ the rad cap off and observed the coolant flow into the right radiator. That's pretty cool to do, the volume of fluid flowing is pretty big and obvious.

After that I capped the radiator and allowed the bike to idle until the colling fan turned off. That took approximately 4-5 minutes. As soon as the fan came on I hopped on the bike and rode down the block. By the time I got to the end and was turning around the fan was off.

So....................This leads me to believe there is nothing wrong w/ the bike and that the issue is w/ the PC-V or Autotune

Next step will be to install the PC-V and Autotune and run one at a time to see what effect each one has on the bike.

As a side not I noticed that the bike seemed snappier than when it ran on the Power Commander

Edited by danbart

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Hope you didn't make my mistake and put on restrictive radiator guards. I fixed my problem with the ofg guards that use the stock fins. Good luck

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I have an '06 510 and have been struggling with some of the same issues in slow sections. Based on this thread - it looks like a have a few things to try. I have a 1.1 cap, big IMS tank and restrictive guards. I switched to Engine Ice before I found this thread and it seemed to help some. Good advice about making sure there is some coolant in the overflow tank before starting a ride.

Friends' KTM 450s have 1.4 and 1.8 caps. Do KTM caps fit on Huskys - or where can I buy the 1.3 cap for a Husky?

I'm going to try running the stock tank for a while. Looks like the OFG guards might be in my future too. Has anyone installed a pusher fan on those? (I prefer to keep my big tank).

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I have the same vintage bike with large IMS tank and restrictive covers. Going down wind to Soggy Lake I blew the top connector hose. George said to use fuel injection hose for strength. He strongly suggested no guards. I purchased the OFG's and used the stock fins and that was the end of over heating. Good Luck. Wayne

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Ordered OFGs and stock fins today (from Hall's Cycle - seem like good people). Also learned that a new high-volume water pump is available for Huskys for $40. Bigger housing and bigger impeller. They also had a 1.6 cap for $32 but suggested I wait to see if the OFG and fins solve the problem - and said to try the bigger pump before a new cap.

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Ran with OFGs in Mammoth Lakes last weekend in near-90 degree heat. Still had big tank and 1.1 cap. Small pressure release from radiator cap after getting stuck on a soft and dusty hill climb. That seems acceptable. I only put in about a 1/4 cup of fluid after it was cooled down. I think my problem might be solved (unless I keep tyring hill climbs in the heat...)

Anyone want to buy my old, restrictive air-flow, radiator guards? ... cheap.

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