Bad steering shake over bumps. Need help with stabalizer

On our local track theres a lot of bumps on the straight aways and some are befor jumps. when i go over these bumps i get pretty bad head shake and the handlebars wobble around. anything i should change on the steering stabalizer? i havent touched the clickers on it ever. or maybe its how im riding like a technique thing? any input?

The most important is having your suspension dialed in. That would make the biggest diffrence. I am curious on the dampner also.

Suspension has areally big impact on this. In particular front rear statis and race sag, fork tube height, base valve even something like leaky seals or poor oil in the case of forks that have never been rebuilt.

Adding a stabilizer will help but if the suspension is set wrong then all it will do is smake a bad suspension set up tolerable, but it will not correct the underlying problem which is causing problems elsewhere wether you know it or not.

There is excessive head shake or headshake when simply going fast. That said, some head shake is pretty normal over chop btw.

Typically stabilizers aid in big rock hits that send the bars flying, they typically do not help as much for small movements. They are designed to prevent large swings that can result in instability as in the case of fast sharp square edge hits hits or rock deflection.

well its the built in stabilizer that honda has. and im pretty sure the suspension is set up right. some guy from rg3 or factor connection told me where to put my clickers for my weight and whatnot. but im pretty sure the springs are for a heavier rider. i weight 130 and it has stock springs in it. its an 08. and it only has 24 hours on it so no leaky seals.

Start turning it in. I replaced the oil in my 450's with thicker oil and it helped a lot.

Look for a post that ebeck posted regarding the steering damper. He spent a ton of time changing oils and different weights of oil. I can't remember what synthetic oil it was, but I did it both on the 08 250 and the 09 450 with excellent results! Every click makes a difference unlike the stock oil used in them.

Yeah the newer bikes do head shake over tight chop, even with the stabilizer. A Scotts damper may help but make them too tight and they affect turning ability. They work well for desert riding and what not. For track they can get in the way if you try and eliminate all head shake.

Head shake is normal. I say rebuild the damper and get used to it, maybe lower your forks in the clamps to open up the rake a bit more and increase trail.

Start by getting the correct springs for your weight!

no money for springs. im broke as a joke. 16 with no job.

Going to be tough to get rid of this without the correct fork and shock springs but here are some things you can try. Set your sag here...

Play with the adjuster here...

It will be tough to get your sag correct with the rear spring that is going to be to stiff but get as close as you can...and I recommend getting correct springs as soon as you can.

At your weight, it will be very tough to dial in your suspension with the stock springs. Stock, the CRF's are sprung for a 165 - 180 person. My nephew wrecked really bad due to head shake on his KX100 I bought him due to him being too big for the suspension. Worst day of my life by far.

Do yourself a favor and get your suspension to match your weight. Not only can it save your life, it will make your riding experience much better.

Indeed. I understand you don't have the cash now for springs, but at least you can have the knowledge that you may be too light to get the proper sag in the rear which is causing your bike to ride in a stink-bug position. The front end is too steep. Without not enough sag your rear wheel is unable to get maximum traction and the rear end will skip and try to step out on the high-frequency bumps such as braking or acceleration square edge.

Your CRF, like most linkage bikes, requires approximately 1/3 sag of total travel in the rear.

how much do they run and do i use stock ones?

Springs are about $100 each end. When you change springs you risk the valving being out of proportion relative to the spring rate. usually spring changes are accompanies with re-valving unless you are talking one size either side of stock.

Set the sag then go from th ere

Good luck!

you can try this.

run the fork height flush with the triple clamps.

run sag at approx. 105 mm. you'll probably end up with a lot of free sag now since you only weigh 130 lbs.

also and important, turn the hi-speed compression out 2.5-2.75 turns out (left) from closed. its the 14mm nut that is on the outside of the rear comp. screw.

this will help lower the rear while in motion....

give it a try. it might be a good enough band-aid until you get it sprung correctly.

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