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how much tranny oil?

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Just picked up an 06 rm250. just going over everything. How do you tell when you have enough tranny oil? theres no sight glass and obviously no dip stick. it says 750ml but if your low how do you know how much to add?

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So i changed the tranny oil and put in 750-800ml of motul 2 stroke tranny oil. and now its sticking in gear. locking in gear and i cant shift up or down. could this be from to much oil? all was fine before i changed the oil

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Weird. Warm it up in neutral. Then drain it and measure how much you have. Put back in 750ml (if thats what it says) and try it again. I know its not, but make sure it is 2 stroke tranny oil and not 2 stroke premix. Was it warm when you drained it first time? I have not heard of this happening before but I guess it is possible. No oil coming out of an overflow I guess? Good luck.

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ya it was warm when i drained it. put in motul transmission oil. i know its odd. i have to jam the shifter back up to get it back in 2nd. i went out and let some oil out and now it seems fine. shifting smoother. there was def not 750ml when i drained the old out. just got the bike yesterday so im going through it and changing everyting out. rode it twice in the field with old oil and never once had a problem shifting. i changed it out and it did it

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You need to check the shift mechanism. Noway oil could cause this problem.

I had the same problem. It was the pin on the shift drum

(#8). It was too short and worn to engage properly with the shift prawl (#24). Also check that the bolt is not loose (#9) In effect the shift lever is not engaging the drum. And, the parts in between the shift lever and the drum will jam up and make the lever feel stuck.

You'll have to pull the clutch and parts 11-21 to get to the bolt (#9). But at least it's a good opportunity to inspect the clutch and check the area for shavings.

If you're new to these bikes I can give you a list of tools and parts you'll need to get into this.

BTW: Not fully engaging a shift is a good way to break the dogs off your gears and high potential of blowing up the tranny. Sorry to be so alarming. I just can't believe oil would cause or fix this issue!!!

shifting.jpg

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I understand your points. BUt it was shifting fine no issues what so ever then i changed the oil and bam there it was. I guess he was using castrol 2 stroke gear oil and i switched it to motul. which i doubt has anything to do with it

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Can you turn the rear wheel by hand and find all the gears

without engaging the clutch?

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Havent tried. But when you put it in first you really got to jam the shifter up to get it in 2nd. How much is the clutch basket supposed to move on the crank. i pulled all the fibers and plates out they looked fine and i could move the basket about 3/8in up and down. And when i pull the clutch in now it rolls the motor over when you push the bike

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Good idea to try to go through the gears with the bike not running. Might get you closer to determining whether or not you have a clutch or transmission problem.

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Think i have both. im thinking a shift fork problem or in that area. goes itnto first then jams. have to bottom the shift out then jam it back up by hand to get it into 2nd. as for the clutch im lost. basket has no grooves all the plates looked good. basket, inner hub, and friction plates are all new 1 ride on them.

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To check your level there should be a phillips head screw just forward of the clutch on the housing. With the bike level you should be able to take that screw out and see oil start to come out like checking the differential fluid on a car.

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To check your level there should be a phillips head screw just forward of the clutch on the housing. With the bike level you should be able to take that screw out and see oil start to come out like checking the differential fluid on a car.

thanks but thats the least of my problems right now

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Think i have both. im thinking a shift fork problem or in that area. goes itnto first then jams. have to bottom the shift out then jam it back up by hand to get it into 2nd. as for the clutch im lost. basket has no grooves all the plates looked good. basket, inner hub, and friction plates are all new 1 ride on them.

Still sounds like the problem and symptoms I describe in my post above.

What's the harm in checking them out? At least you won't have to split

the cases, only remove the clutch. To check the forks you'll need to open the case.

Also, regarding your clutch I don't see anything that you've described

that could be a clutch issue. The play you see is normal. If any of the bearings in the clutch were worn you'd have a rattling noise.

Open the clutch/waterpump cover. Before you pull the clutch, reinstall the shift lever, then turn the wheel and shift by hand. Watch the mechanism

and see what's going on. If you don't see anything obvious, remove the clutch, shift lever and shaft, the shift pawls, and the stop-spring. Then, turn the shift stopper to operate the drum.

If you can manually get it in each gear, by turning the drum, then the forks are ok. If not, check the shift stopper is aligned with the pin on the drum.

The main symptoms for bad forks is not getting into gear or jumping out of gear while riding. (or worse, broken dogs)

You can't guess at this. You have to look at it.

Besides, you won't sleep well until you do!! :busted:

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Still sounds like the problem and symptoms I describe in my post above.

What's the harm in checking them out? At least you won't have to split

the cases, only remove the clutch. To check the forks you'll need to open the case.

Also, regarding your clutch I don't see anything that you've described

that could be a clutch issue. The play you see is normal. If any of the bearings in the clutch were worn you'd have a rattling noise.

Open the clutch/waterpump cover. Before you pull the clutch, reinstall the shift lever, then turn the wheel and shift by hand. Watch the mechanism

and see what's going on. If you don't see anything obvious, remove the clutch, shift lever and shaft, the shift pawls, and the stop-spring. Then, turn the shift stopper to operate the drum.

If you can manually get it in each gear, by turning the drum, then the forks are ok. If not, check the shift stopper is aligned with the pin on the drum.

The main symptoms for bad forks is not getting into gear or jumping out of gear while riding. (or worse, broken dogs)

You can't guess at this. You have to look at it.

Besides, you won't sleep well until you do!! :busted:

Ya im taking it to a fellow racer friends house in the morning to tear into it and see if he canfigure anything out. I think you need the clutch out to be able to see anything in the shift mechanism area.

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Ya im taking it to a fellow racer friends house in the morning to tear into it and see if he canfigure anything out. I think you need the clutch out to be able to see anything in the shift mechanism area.

Not totally, you'll be able to see if the pawls are working into the slots.

Check it out before you pull the clutch. Then go ahead and pull the clutch

to try the rest of the tests.

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