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My XR400 Project


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Hello all,

Here's my current project, a 1997 XR400 (Ca Plated) dual sport, I picked it up for $1500.00 bucks on Craigslist. The guy told me in advance that the frame was rusted, but since I was planning a ground up rebuild I was looking for something cheap..the bike was pretty rough but runs fine..

I would also like to say Thanks to all the people that have posted pics of their projects, lots of great info in the forum :busted:

Sorry no pics of the whole bike..I took one ride behind the house to check out the motor..then started in..

My helpers..

XR400034.jpg

The Pile..

XR400002.jpg

XR400005-1.jpg

The frame..the black goo you see is rust neutalizer, I filled the bottom of the frame rails after I cut it open..hopefully the rust will not return..

XR400036-1.jpg

The frame fixed..I own a machine shop so I made all the parts..

XR400039.jpg

XR400040-1.jpg

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Nice job.......

Take a look at your kick stand bracket and put a gusset on it before paint. That is XR400 weak spot.

On this bike it looked like someone had broken the kickstand off and rewelded it, but the bike leaned over at about a 45 degree angle when on the stand, so I heated the bracket and bent it back, it seems pretty solid..I guess time will tell..I was actually thinking of building a kickstand out of solid alum, something that would use the stock spring and mounting bolt..I wonder if it would be strong enough..:busted:

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Nice looking repair. As suggested earlier, you may want to put in some gussets to firm up the frame. When I did my frame-off cleanup, I filled the rear triangles with a thin sheet of steel. Solid as the Rock of Gibratar.

2704450264_78eb6833ee.jpg

JayC

I probably should have beefed up that area..I bet it helps alot to reduce frame flex, this bike is going to be kind of a playbike..here's my normal Ride..

2003CR.jpg

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On this bike it looked like someone had broken the kickstand off and rewelded it, but the bike leaned over at about a 45 degree angle when on the stand, so I heated the bracket and bent it back, it seems pretty solid..I guess time will tell..I was actually thinking of building a kickstand out of solid alum, something that would use the stock spring and mounting bolt..I wonder if it would be strong enough..:busted:

Make two please.....

I was thinking about buying a pro moto billet kick stand and making a new bracket to bolt it on. I like how it folds up out of the way and no spring.

Put a small gusset at the bottom side of the bracket......My kickstand bracket cracked during a crash and the kick stand was rubbing on the swing-arm.

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Your rebuild is looking 1st class all the way -- wish I had a fraction of your tools and the ability to go with it to do that stuff!

Keep the updates coming. Your ride is going to look completely custom and like new if you're tackling the entire bike the way you've done with these parts so far.

Good luck!

:busted:

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Nice, I see you are going the inverted fork route............probably gonna like like my bike when I get it all back together. Powder coated the frame wheels and hubs, did some other mods to the frame as well...............looking good. One question, how hard was it to remove the wheel clamps off the lower legs of the forks? I didn't realize they could be removed and now am wishing I would have gotten mine powder coated as well. I went Black frame, black rims and red hub.............with shiney new stainless spokes.

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Nice, I see you are going the inverted fork route............probably gonna like like my bike when I get it all back together. Powder coated the frame wheels and hubs, did some other mods to the frame as well...............looking good. One question, how hard was it to remove the wheel clamps off the lower legs of the forks? I didn't realize they could be removed and now am wishing I would have gotten mine powder coated as well. I went Black frame, black rims and red hub.............with shiney new stainless spokes.

They are not that hard to remove,unscrew or drill out the setscrews first, most time they are so gunked up that it's easier to drill them out and rethread later, basically clamp the tube in something that won't damage them, then heat the axel lugs with a mapp gas torch (or propane), get them nice and hot to melt the thread locking compound (you'll smell it), then unscrew the lugs, if they quit turning at anytime stop and reheat and repeat..take your time.

I probably would not have done mine if the all the threads for the fork guards were not stripped, I guess the old adage of "you get what you pay for" applies to the forks I bought off ebay..$130.00 and no one bid on them exept me of course ? , anyhow they look like this now..

Softjaws..

Picture084.jpg

Insides of fork, I'm replacing all the seals and bushings and revalving them..one fork was valved differant than the other :busted: , maybe they were off a flattracker and the guy only turned one way :banana:

Picture050.jpg

Tubes have been reanodized..

Picture086.jpg

Hopefully I'll be able to get them back together tomorrow..

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So when you had the tubes anodized i guess it was done inside and out. Did it add any noticeable layer that would affect the fit of the fork bushings?

I had them plugged before ano, the buildup wasn't so much of a concern (ano is maybe .0004 total), the inside of the tubes come from the factory with a microfinish (like a mirror), the main worry I have is that the etching process before ano would damage that..

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