CRF 230M ~ Ever heard of such an animal?

I never have. I saw it for the first time this morning on eBay. I went to the Honda website and saw that there is indeed one under the Motard section.

Notice that there is a rear disc brake? Maybe it could bolt up to the F model? Too bad about the forks. They look the same.

The carb is bigger on the M: 30mm CV vs. 26mm piston-valve.

The final drive has fewer teeth on the rear sprocket for the M: 13T/38T vs. 13T/50T.

The front forks have .5" less travel on the M. Everything else is the same.

The rear shock has a whopping 2.4" less travel on the M.

The rear has a 220mm disc rotor on the M.

The wheels are completely different;

Front: 110/70-17 Dunlop GT401 Arrowmax

Rear: 130/70 Dunlop GT401 Arrowmax

The wheelbase is 1.5" shorter on the M at 52.6" vs. 54.1" on the F.

The rake on the M is 23.9 degrees and on the F it is 27.3 degrees.

The trail on the M is 3.58" and on the F it is 4.4"

The seat height is 31.7" on the M vs. 34.1" on the F.

The gas tank is larger at 2.3 gallons with a .7 gallon reserve on the M vs. 1.9/0.4 on the F.

Ground clearance is 9.3" vs. 11.7". This is the 2.4" lost on the rear shock. Funny how the front shock lost 0.5" but didn't affect the ground clearance number.

The wet curb weight is 276 lbs. on the M vs. 249 lbs. for the F. That's 27 lbs heavier for the M. I'm guessing lights, extra fuel, gauges, mirrors, wheels.

The price is $1500 (MSRP) higher as well. $5,400 vs. $3,900. ~ BTW, the one on ebay is BIN at $4,395.

I'm wondering about such things as:

1. Do the Motard wheels bolt up on an F model?

2. Would the rear swing arm/disc set up bolt on the F model?

3. Would the light kit be any more less expensive than Baja Designs or similar?

4. Is the stator larger and would it swap out as well?

Wouldn't you know... just after I posted this, I found a thread that talks about it. (I searched before I posted and came up empty.)

So if anyone else is curious:

Check it out!

I wish Honda would put a tamed down 450 in a Supermotard set up like Suzuki DR400SM.

I got one, had the week they hit the floor and loving all 4k I got on it :busted: The wife has the L, the M and L are identical other than the obvious color and wheels

Mike38 ~ me too. A 425 or 450 would be perfect. The 230cc is just a little small for street or serious motard endeavors. A friend has a Yamaha WR250X that he seems to enjoy. I thought that it was a little under powered for the street. Maybe with some different gearing. Another guy that is in our club has a KTM 690 SMC that has a little too much power for such a tall bike. That statement should be qualified by me not being used to that riding style for the street. I ride a YZF600R on pavement that is a lot lower to the ground, so I'm used to the 'planted' feeling that I get from being lower even though they use the same size tires front and rear. (well the KTM front has a 120/70 and my Yamaha has a 120/60 ~ I don't think that should make a difference)

Pigryder ~ Thanks for the info and I'm glad to hear that you like it.

Yeah, I did the search thing before I posted, but nothing came up, then I did the search again to see if my post popped up. That's when I found yours, so I linked it to this post. :thumbsup:

I tried to delete this one, but I came up empty on that as well. :busted:

I did notice that the L and the M are similar, and only noted the F differences.


Geeze ~ Talk about being a little slow...

After I posted that last reply, I went into "the Library" to do my morning thing, where I have a few motorcycle magazines that I methodically go through reading each page from cover to cover (never turn a page unless it is read, that way it keeps it fresh). Just as I turned to the next page to be read in the September Motor Cyclist, lo and behold, a review on the CRF 230M. (page 46).

The article seems to bash the hell out of this bike with sentences like:

"Power-wary riders needn't worry as acceleration is far from overwhelming."

"Even with the 30mm Keihin carburetor at full yawn in top gear, the 230M tops our at an indicated 75 mph--and it takes its sweet time getting there."

"Spool it up near redline, however, and the ensuing high frequency buzz will leave you rubbing your backside to rouse deadened nerves."

"The dash is as rudimentary as they come, with only an analog speedometer and the most essential indicator lights."

"At the current rate, the CRF's miserly 2.3 gallon payload should be good for around 200 miles."

"The CRF230M is a viable option for entry level riders, but the antiquated engine design leaves something lacking--namely power. Unless seat height is their foremost concern, newbies will be hard-pressed to choose the CRF230M over the faster, more sophisticated--and cheaper-- Kawasaki KLX250SF."

I do understand that this is an entry level bike, but maybe Cycle World doesn't. I do know for over $1,200 less, you can buy the Kawasaki Ninja 250R that has much better handling and power delivery. I actually picked up my girlfriend's for $3900 complete with a Scorpion EXO 700 helmet thrown in. Yes, these are two different types of bikes, but entry level is entry level. It all boils down to the riders personal preference and comfort level to gain confidence in the world of two wheeled riding.

I think that if I wanted to ride this style of bike on the street, I'd go the route of dual sport tires and lighting for my CRF 230F. I'm just excited that there might be a swing arm with rear disc that could possibly bolt on to the F model. Does anyone know that this will work?

"Power-wary riders needn't worry as acceleration is far from overwhelming."

"Even with the 30mm Keihin carburetor at full yawn in top gear, the 230M tops our at an indicated 75 mph--and it takes its sweet time getting there."

"Spool it up near redline, however, and the ensuing high frequency buzz will leave you rubbing your backside to rouse deadened nerves."

"The dash is as rudimentary as they come, with only an analog speedometer and the most essential indicator lights."

"At the current rate, the CRF's miserly 2.3 gallon payload should be good for around 200 miles."

"The CRF230M is a viable option for entry level riders, but the antiquated engine design leaves something lacking--namely power. Unless seat height is their foremost concern, newbies will be hard-pressed to choose the CRF230M over the faster, more sophisticated--and cheaper-- Kawasaki KLX250SF."

Typical motojournalists, spoiled on free bikes delivered for them to test short-term, beat the hell out of them, then have them whisked away before they need so much as an oil change. No wonder they have no regard for simplicity, ease of maintenance or longevity.. all categories in which the "antiquated" design beats the KLX and its valve problems. No wonder they seem to have AADD, keep referring to an odometer as a "clock" and make smartass comments about "full yawn" and their butts tingling. They need a swift boot to their ass, that'll shut up their whining about the butt-tingle they get when abusing a bike like they never would if they owned it. Ugh, I can't believe I ever sent CW a nickel.. it should be free with all the paid advertisements anyway.

"The CRF230M is a viable option for entry level riders

How do you like that one pigryder?:banana: :banana: Sure MotorCyclist he's an entry level rider:smirk:

This a guy that handles a 650R like a mx bike, at the track, the woods, the rocks, the stripmines, the pavement, and everything in between and a good part of that time on the rear wheel only.:thumbsup::banana: Oh yeah and thats with a 6.6 gallon tank and usually dirtbags and other gear.:busted:

so does the Disc brake bolt up to the 230f?

I don't think that will work.. same rear brake as the L model.

That's a beautiful bike. I was looking at one the last time I was at the dealer. It looks so cool!

O.K., so it happened again. I was sitting down this morning and reached for the other magazine (Cycle World) that was laying on the floor, since Motorcyclist was in the den next to the computer to get my info straight when I wrote my other post.

They have a write up on the 230M as well, only this one isn't so critical on the little girl.

Check it out if you want more info.

to hell with the magz I'll just have a blast on mine :busted:

+1. Best info possible - own, ride and work on the bike, preferably w/shop manual

Next best - the consensus of many opinions and articles, free off the internet

Decent - Motorcycle Consumer News (MCN)

BS and glossy eye-candy - Mo'cyclist, CW, etc. With some exceptions, people like Kevin Cameron and Andrew McDonald with their tech articles.. also the occasional long-term/living-with-it test isn't too bad.

so does the Disc brake bolt up to the 230f?

Why would anyone worry about a CRF150F/L/M/Z whatever need a back disc brake? Thing is so slow it would never need it. Buy a KLX140L and put lights on it.

pigryder ~ great attitude! That's why there is choice out there!

I figured if we want more bikes like the 230m and L we need to buy whats available right? My buddy at work bought a 09 230L and he loves it and he ownes a 08 suzuki bandit 1250s. My wifes 230L has 10k on it now and I can guarantee it will see 20k with no issues :busted:

I would like to add this also....... mags kiss my 230 loving @ss


That's what I'm talking bout:banana:

Yup, just like that!

That's it, I'm using my 230 to learn to wheelie.

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  • Similar Content

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    • By 230F
      Jetting the 230F
      By: Phil Vieira
      This project takes no less than 2 hours if you have never done jetting to a bike before. It took me 1.5 hours, to take my bike apart, take out the needle, change my pilot jet and the main, and take pictures along the way, but I have seen the inside of my carb 3 times, so I know my way around it pretty well…
      You should be jetting this bike right when you get it home. This bike comes lean from the factory. If you don’t know what that means, it means that the bike is getting too much air, in terms, a hotter engine, and your plugs will get hotter, and a decrease in HP. To make your engine last longer, do this.
      These jetting combos are for a 2000 feet and below scenario. Any altitudes higher, you should do a search on the forum. If it cannot be found, post on the forum. Please don’t post on the forum “How do I do this…” You have all the answers here.
      This project comes to a grand total of less than 30 dollars. The needle is 20, the main jet is about 3 dollars, and the pilot is 5 dollars. You may not need to do the pilot jet depending on your situation, but again, if you’re riding 2000 feet and below, it’s a good idea to get a pilot jet.
      The jets I used consist of a 132 main, 45 pilot and the power up needle with the clip on the 4th position.
      Part numbers:
      16012-KPS-921 – Needle (Includes Power up needle, Clip, and needle jet)
      99113-GHB-XXX0 – Main jet (Where XXX is the size)
      99103-MT2-0XX0 – Pilot jet (Where XX is the size)
      For the Jets, just tell them you need jets for a regular Keihn carb, (also known as a Keihn Long Hex) main jet size XXX, pilot jet size XX. They should know the part numbers. For the needle, bring the number along. If you are lazy, they should have a fiche and they can look up the numbers. Then again you can take in the old jets, and make sure they match up to the new ones.

      Now, the tools you will need are as follows:

      ~A collecting cup of some sort. I used a peanut butter jar.
      ~Ratchets for the following sizes:
      - 6mm, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm
      - Extension for the sockets needed
      ~Phillips and Flathead screwdriver (Be sure these are in perfect condition. A badly worn screwdriver will strip the screws)
      ~Needle nose pliers
      ~”Vise grips” or known as locking pliers (Two)
      ~Open end wrench 7mm and 12mm
      ~ It’s a good idea to have a extra hand around
      (Not needed, but I highly recommend tiny Phillips and flathead screwdrivers (Pictured next to the jar and the ¼” extension) I recommend these for removing a couple things since you can put pressure with your thumb on the end and unscrew it with the other hand. This insures that you will not over tighten any parts, and ensure that you will not strip the heads of the bolts.
      Ok, now that you have the tools, let’s start by putting the bike on a bike stand. I put it on the stand rather than the kickstand because it’s more stable and sits higher. I hate working on my knees. Start by taking the number plates off. Yes, both of them. The right side, you take off one bolt and the top comes off of its rubber grommets, pull the top off, and the plate comes right off. The left hand side, use the 10mm socket to take the battery bolts off, and then take the Phillips bolt near the back. Again, rubber grommets are used to hold the top in place. Take the seat off. There are two mounting bolts on the back:

      Those two bolts are both a 12mm socket. Use the open end wrench on the inside, and use the socket on the outside. You may need to use an extension if you don’t have a deep socket. Once you have the two bolts off, slide the seat back, and lift it up. This is what you have. Notice there is a hook in the middle and a knob on the tank. That is what you are sliding the seat off of.

      Now that the seat is off, you must take the gas tank off. Don’t worry, you won’t spill any gas any where, I promise. On the left hand side of the bike where the valve is, slide down the metal clip holding the tube in place. Turn off the gas supply, and slip the tube off slowly. Now take off the two bolts in the front of the take. This is on the lowest part of the gas tank in the front, behind the tank shrouds. The socket you will use is an 8mm socket. Take the bolts all the way off and set them aside. Now look back at the last picture posted. On the back of the tank, there is a rubber piece connected to the knob and the frame. Slip that rubber piece off of the frame. Pull the vent tube out of the steering stem and lift the tank up. Don’t tip it, and lay the tank aside where you won’t trip on it. This is what you’ll end up with:

      It may be a good idea to take a rag, and wipe all the dirt off the top of the bike if any. You don’t want anything dropping down into the carb. If you do, engine damage is the result. A clean bike is always a good thing! Now we must drain the gas out into that container. This is very easy. Make sure you open the garage door, windows, whatever, to let the fumes out. Breathing this crap is bad. Here is where the drain screw is:

      (Don’t worry about removing the carb, that comes later) This is on the right side of the carb, on the float bowl. The vent tube that goes down to the bottom of the bike is where the gas drains to. Put the jar under that tube and start to unscrew that screw, enough so that the gas leaks into that jar. Once the gas doesn’t drip anymore, close the screw all the way. Now on to the top of the carb. We are going to take this cover off:

      This cover comes off by removing the two screws. Once removed, the lid comes off as well as the gasket. Flip it over and set it aside. Do not set the gasket side down on the ground, as it will get contaminants! Here is what you are facing:

      The angle of the camera cannot show the two screws. But one is visible. It has a red dot, and opposite of that side is a darker red dot. I made it darker because it’s not visible, but that is where it is. This is where I use the miniature screw drivers to get the screws. I magnetize the screwdrivers, and use care to make sure I don’t strip the heads. Metal pieces in a piston are not good! Remove the two screws. Put these screws on a clean surface so they do not get contaminants. Now get your vise grips and set it so that it will lock onto the throttle, not too tight, not too loose. Set the vise grips on the seat. Start to open the throttle slowly as you guide that “plunger holder” (as I call it) up to the top. Once you have the throttle all the way open, take the vise grips, and lock it so that the throttle does not go back any more. What I do is I hold it pinned and lock it up against the brake so it doesn’t rewind on me. If you don’t have locking grips, a friend will do, just have them hold the throttle open all the way until you are finished. How fold the plunger holder to the back of the carb and pull the piece up to the top. Take care not to remove it, as it is a pain to get back together! If it came apart on you, this is what it should be assembled to:

      Once you get the holder out of the slider, set it back like this:

      As you can see, the bar is back 45 degrees, while the holder is forward 45 degrees to make a S. Here is what you are faced with when you look down on the carb:

      Where the red dot is where the needle lies. Grab needle nose pliers and carefully pull up the needle out of its slot. This is what the needle looks like once it is out.

      Now we must move the carb to take the bowl off. Untie the two straps on the front and back of the carb. Don’t take them off; just loosen them until the threads are at the end. Take the front of the carb off the boot and twist the bowl as much as you can towards you. Tie the back tie down to that it does not rewind back on you. This is what you have:

      Now we must take off the bowl. Some people take that hex nut off to change the main jet, which you can, but you cannot access the pilot jet, and you can’t take out the needle jet (a piece the needle slides into), so we need to take it off. It’s just three bolts. As we look at the underside of the carb, this is what you will see:

      The bolts with the red square dots are the bolts you will be removing. These are Phillips head bolts, and the bolt with the blue dot is your fuel screw. This is what you will adjust when the time comes, but keep in mind where that bolt is. You need a small flat blade to adjust it.
      Well, take those screws off, and you are faced with this:

      The blue dot is for cross reference, which is the fuel screw once again. The green dot is the pilot jet. You can remove this using a flat blade screwdriver. Just unscrew it and pull it out. Once you pull it out, set it aside and put in the 45 pilot jet you got. The red dot is the main. You remove this by using a 6mm socket. Just unscrew it. If the whole thing turns, not just the jet, but the 7mm sized socket under it, don’t worry, that piece has to come out as well. If it doesn’t, use a 7mm to unscrew it off. Here is what the jets look like:

      Pilot Jet

      Main jet attached to the tube. Take the main jet off by using an open end wrench and a socket on the jet. Again, it screws right off.
      Here is what you are faced with if you look form the bottom up.

      From left to right: Main jet, Pilot Jet, Fuel screw. Now in the main jet’s hole, if you look closely, you see a bronze piece in the middle of that hole. We are going to take this off. Since I did not do this part (I only changed my pilot jet when I took these pictures) there are no pictures taken for this section but this is really simple to do if you’ve been a good student and know where things go. You should know anyways, you have to put the bike back together!
      (Notice: There have been discussions about these needle jets being the same. Only change this needle jet if the one you have is worn out. If you do not have the old needle, a older drill bit bigger than 3/20ths (.150), and smaller than 11/100 (.11") Use the tapered side of the bit, set it down in the hole and tap it out carefully.)
      Now take your OLD needle, I repeat, the OLD needle because what you are going to do next will ruin it. Pull the clip off with your needle nose pliers, or a tiny screwdriver to pry it off. Then put the needle back in the hole where it goes. That’s right, just to clarify, you took off the needle, and you put the needle back in the hole with no clip. Slide the point side first, just as it would go normally. Now if you look at the bottom of the carb, the needle is protruding past the main jets hole. Grab another pair of locking pliers (vise grips as I call them) and lock it as tight as you can on the needle. Pull with all your might on the needle. Use two hands. Have a friend hold the carb so you don’t pull it off the boot. Tell them to stick their fingers in the hole that goes to the engine, and pull up. After pulling hard, the needle jet should slip right off. Then notice which side goes towards the top of the carb. There is one side that is a smaller diameter than the other. Take the new needle jet, and push it up into the hole the way the old one was set. Just get it straight. Take the tube the main jet goes into, and start threading it in. Once you can’t tie it down anymore with a ratchet, unscrew it and look at the needle jet to make sure it’s set. That’s it for the needle jet. Now let’s start putting the carb back together.
      (Notice: Many people have destroyed jets and such by overtighting them! Use the thumb on the head of the wrench and two fingers on the wrench to tighten it down.)
      Thread the main jet into the tube it goes into, and then start putting it back on the carb. Thread the pilot jet in as well if you haven’t done so already. Remember these carburetor metals are soft as cheese, so don’t over tighten the jets very much. What I do is I put my thumb on the top of my ratchet, and use two fingers closest to the head of the ratchet to tighten the jet. That’s how tight I go when I tie them back in.
      Now before we put the carb back together, let’s adjust the fuel screw. Take a small screwdriver, and start screwing in the fuel screw until it sets. Again, do not over tighten, just let it set. Then count back your turns. Count back 1.75 turns.
      Now we must put the bowl back on. The white piece that came off with the bowl goes back as followed:

      If you look directly under the carb, the round hole is aligned with the pilot jet. Take the float bowl, and put it back on.
      Untie the rear clamp and the front clamp as well. Slip the carb back the way it used to. Make sure that it is straight up and down with the rest of the bike. The notch on the front boot should be aligned with the notch on the carburetor, and the notch on the carburetor should be in that slot. Tie the clamps down securely.
      Let’s put the needle in. These are how the needle numbers go:

      The top clip position is #1, the lowest one, closest to the bottom, is #5. (The picture says six but it is five in this case) For reference #1 is the leanest position, while 5 is the richest. I put the clip in the 4th position. Read at the bottom of the page and you can know what conditions I ride in, and you can adjust them to your preference.
      Put the clip in the new needle, slip it in. Take the vise grips off your grips and start guiding the plunger holder down to the bottom. Remember not to let that assembly come apart because it is a pain in the ass to get it back together! Once you get it to the bottom, put the two screws on, and then put the cover on.
      Now that you have done the carburetor mods, there is still one thing you want to do to complete the process. Don’t worry, this takes less than a minute! On the top of the air box there is a snorkel:

      As you can see, you can slip your fingers in and pull it out. Do that. This lets more air in to the air box. Don’t worry about water getting in. There is a lip that is about 1/8” high that doesn’t let water in. When you wash, don’t spray a lot under the seat, but don’t worry about it too much.
      The next thing you must do is remove the exhaust baffle. The screw is a torx type, or you can carefully use an allen wrench and take care not to strip it:

      The screw is at the 5 o’clock position and all you do is unscrew it, reach in, and yank it out. This setup still passes the dB test. The bike runs 92 dB per AMA standards, which is acceptable. Just carry this baffle in your gear bag if the ranger is a jerk off. I’ve never had a problem, but don’t take chances.
      That’s it! Start putting your tank on, seat, and covers. After you put the seat on, pull up on the front, and the middle of the seat to make sure the hooks set in place.
      Turn on the bike, and take a can of WD-40. Spray the WD-40 around the boot where it meets the carburetor. If the RPM rises, you know you have a leak, and the leak must be stopped. You must do this to make sure there are no leaks!
      Here is my configuration:
      04’ 230F
      Uni Air filter
      132 Main Jet
      45 Pilot Jet
      Power up needle, 4th clip position
      Fuel screw 1.75 turns out
      Riding elevation: 2000ft - Sea level
      Temperature – Around 60-90 degrees
      Spark Plug Tips
      When you jet your carb, a spark plug is a best friend. Make sure your spark plug is gapped correctly, (.035) but that’s not all that matters. You want to make sure the electrode is over the center, and you want the electrode to be parallel, not like a wave of a sea. Put in the plug, and run the bike for 15 mins, ride it around too then turn it off. Then take off the spark plug after letting the bike cool. The ceramic insulator should be tan, like a paper bag. If it is black, it is running rich, if it is white, it is running lean. The fuel screw should be turned out if it is running lean, and turned in if it is running rich. Go ¼ turns at a time until your plug is a nice tan color.
      Making sure your bike is jetted correctly
      While you are running the bike for those 15 mins to check the plug color, you want to make sure it’s jetted correctly now. Here is what the jets/needle/screw control:
      0- 3/8 throttle – Pilot jet
      ¼ to ¾ throttle – Needle
      5/8 – full throttle – Main jet
      0-Full – Fuel screw
      Pin the gas, does it bog much? Just put around, is it responsive? When you’re coming down a hill, the rpm’s are high and you have no hand on the throttle, does it pop? If it pops, it is lean and the pilot jet should be bigger. If it’s responsive your needle is set perfectly. You shouldn’t have to go any leaner than the 3rd position, but I put mine in the 4th position to get the most response. Your bike shouldn’t bog much when you have it pinned. If it does it is too rich of a main jet.
      Determining the plug color, you will have to mess with the fuel screw.
      That’s it, have fun jetting, and any questions, post on the forum, but remember to do a search first.
      Also, if your bike requires different jets due to alititude, humidity, or temperature, please post the following so we can better assist you:
      Average temperature
      Altitude (If you do not know this, there is a link in the Jetting forum that you can look up your alititude)
      Average Humidity
      What jets you are currently running
      What the problem is (If there is one)
      Just do that and we'll help you out the best we can.
      EDIT: The girl using this login name is my girlfriend. You can reach me on my new login name at 250Thumpher
      Then again, you're more than welcome to say hi to her!
      -Phill Vieira
    • By jason230
      Well I figured this would be a cool thread to have seeing as how quite a few of us have gotten pretty far into upgrading our 150/230s. This will be helpfull for those looking into getting things for their bike so they can see what everything looks like.
      '05 CRF230:
      -Acerbis Rally brush guards
      -Factory FX #'s
      -Renthal 7/8ths MC bend w/ soft half waffle grips
      -BBR +1/2" shift lever
      -BBR revbox
      -White Bros. R-4 Full Exhaust
      -Twin-Air and White Bros. airfilters
      -White Bros. 112main and 48pilot jets
      -Dunlop D756's w/ MSR Ultra Heavy Duty tubes