Suzuki 1986 Quadsport

[Screamin_Chicken68]

Hello everyone. This is my very first time in here so please be gentle. Anyway I have read through the threads and haven't noticed anything new about the quadsport..... Here is my problem, I bought a 1986 Quad Sport in a basket is about the best way to describe it for $35.00. This thing is definitely a project.... As of right now, the thing is supposed to run. But it is a bit low on compression 95-125, there is no spark ...... supposedly the guy bought a new CDI box for it... it looks new but still no spark.... I have a wiring diagram but the voltage regulator shown is three wires (Black, grey, black/white) and the one on the bike is one grey wire out bottom. THe wiring harness is totaly butchered the stator case has a small crack in it.... one of the rims is cut off the bike and I dont think there is a piece of plastic any bigger than a 12"x12" square. My son (he's 6) wants to rebuild it.... we bought it with his allowance money. He found it and wanted it so he/we bought it. My biggest problem is...... PARTS .... I had one of these when they first came out and loved it and I know he will too but around here (NE PA) there are NO PARTS..... heck our local dealer dont even have parts books for the thing. Can anyone help me find someone close to me who might have parts or parts bikes, or know of any for sale (cheap its for a 6 year old)... I would like to get this done with my boy as its his first ATV project (we built an enduro car and a 1987 Yamaha 480 Phazer last year) but I dont want to spend 300 dollars on a cdi box ect. Please any info would be greatly appreciated.

[SACANDAGA]

When I was into working on older machines, Ebay was the best bet. More stuff for Honda ATC's but it's worth a shot for the Quadsport. I had an 86 back in 86 and loved it. It's the reason I still ride Suzuki today....

[JustRandy]

I've been inside and all around those engines. Your best bet for parts is ebay or:

http://vincescycle.tripod.com/newparts/lt230s.html May have something left... He's getting out of the 230 business. The place to send your crank if you ever need crankwork.

http://www.bikebandit.com/ has a oem section and reasonable prices... Low shipping cost.

http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/ Has the same oem stuff Bikebandit has, but much cheaper. Insane shipping cost, but still cheaper in the end than bikebandit. Also, shipping is rather slow.

http://www.alpha-sports.com/suzuki_atv_parts.htm I use this site for looking up part numbers because the site is fast. Prices not all that great.

http://www.rockymountainatv.com/ Pretty good place, but no oem section. Its all aftermarket parts. Too bad too because they would probably have 100% of my business if they did.

http://kustom-kraft.com/SUZUKIKITS.html Big bore kits

http://www.fourstroketech.net/ More big bore kits and oil cooler kits

Let me know what else you need. I doubt you'll surprise me with anything on these quads.

[Screamin_Chicken68]

Randy,

Thanks for the info..... I have been reading the forum posts and noticed that you are d'man when it comes to these quads. I have been to a couple of the sites you sent me but never heard of the others.... again thanks.

Seeings how you mentioned if I need anything.... I do have a question for you or anyone who can help.....this wiring is destroyed and I am in the process of rewiring (want to get it to fire before I go to far) anyway.....my wiring diagram has a 3 wire voltage regulator (B/W, Grey and Black) the black goes to the cdi box, the b/w goes to the kill switch (which is missing on my quad) both of which are also grounded to the frame and then the grey goes to the headlight switch. My quad has a voltage regulator has a single grey wire coming out of the bottom of it which I assume goes to the headlight switch. My cdi box diagram shows all connections and I have checked everything EXCEPT.... my cdi box on the quad has a single black/yellow wire coning out of it and I have NO CLUE where that one goes.... my diagram does not show it ANYWHERE. HOWEVER on my diagram I have a connection off of the cdi box which is y/b which goes to the kill switch. Is it possible the cdi box is the wrong one (I did not buy it it was nib with the box of parts I got) and this y/b wire is the same as my lone b/y wire which should go to the kill switch but if so if this wire is not connected I should still get fire. My other question is...is this diagram I have for the wrong year (I thought 84-88 were the same) and one last thing for now does anyone have the ohm readings for the components coming out of the engine case and also the coil so I can check these with a multimeter. I bought one of those Cylmer manuals off of ebay for 30 bucks and it is nothing more than someone scanned the book printed it out and sent it to me. This thing has nothing in it I really need.... I havent found a single torque setting this is the only wiring diagram and it doesn't match my bike. I maybe wrong on the year I was told it was a 1986 I have the local dealer chasing the vin he told me the vin letter F is the year but he has to see if he can find what it is.... that was 4 days ago. Thanks for all the info and I hope someone can help get this figured out. Im not new to the game just new to the items I am playing with.

[JustRandy]

The wire diagram is misleading.... The regulator has only one wire, like yours. They all do. You don't need the regulator to make the quad run, but you do for the lights. Like you said, the grey wire just goes into the grey wires of the lights. If you don't run lights, just chuck the regulator.

The black/yellow wire from the CDI is the kill switch. Ground it to kill the engine. Here's a funny story.... I was trying to figure out my wiring a long time ago. I used a voltmeter to figure out what wires had voltage while the quad was running and found that b/y wire. So, I plugged the wire into the headlights and everytime I'd turn the lights on, the engine would die, lol. The diagram shows the wire as a y/b, not b/y. Misprint or something.

If the 10th digit of the vin is G, then you have a 1986. If its an F, you have a 1985 model. It doesn't matter, the wiring will be the same anyway. If you have a engine that's stamped "1400ml" on the side instead of "2000ml", you probably have an 85 and a collectable in my opinion. On and after august 1985 production they only made the 2000ml version.

I have the factory service manual, so whatever you need in terms of Ohms or Ft-lbs, I can get for ya.

Ignition coil: Primary: 0-2 ohms. Secondary: 10-25k ohms.

Magneto: Pickup: Bl/Y - G/W 100-200 ohms. Power Source: Br-P 150-350 ohms. Lighting: O-B 0-2 ohms

[Screamin_Chicken68]

Thanks for the ohm readings.... sorry I did not get back soon but was in the garage WAY to late. I went and looked at the engine casing and it does have the 1400ml on it. So you think this thing could be worth a little bit of something when we are done with it. So what makes it collectable? being the first year or some different kind of model? I do have a question for someone what is the ml stamping on the side of the casing for? I have been playing with dirt bikes and snowmobiles for years but never knew what that was. This is the first quad I am going to rip into (had a few but never a project like this thing) Well I am going to start testing electronic parts today let you know how I make out.... I think we are going to go all out on this thing if its a collectible....Let the games begin! LOL

[JustRandy]

Thanks for the ohm readings.... sorry I did not get back soon but was in the garage WAY to late. I went and looked at the engine casing and it does have the 1400ml on it. So you think this thing could be worth a little bit of something when we are done with it. So what makes it collectable? being the first year or some different kind of model? I do have a question for someone what is the ml stamping on the side of the casing for? I have been playing with dirt bikes and snowmobiles for years but never knew what that was. This is the first quad I am going to rip into (had a few but never a project like this thing) Well I am going to start testing electronic parts today let you know how I make out.... I think we are going to go all out on this thing if its a collectible....Let the games begin! LOL

The number means the amount of oil at the oil change. With filter its 1600ml. And after a complete overhaul, its 1700ml.

Its simply means its relatively rare. If its an 86 and still a 1400ml, then its exceedingly rare. But, its only worth something if somebody is willing to pay for it. Currently, there is no mad dash to buy 230's, but one day in the future I'm sure people will want a collection. The 85 was the first fully suspended production quad! Many are being parted out on ebay and scrapped for metal value since the metal prices were so high over the summer. In the mean time, you have plenty of time to tinker, play, and restore before its worth anything significant. In 2010, it will officially be an antique in the state of GA.... I don't know about where you live.

So, how far are you going to go with this? You just going to get it running and play? You going to bore it out? Change cams?? Carbs??? KN filter?????

[JustRandy]

Oh, and another thing.... The fact that it takes less oil means the whole engine is smaller and less weight. Not by much, but you have braggin rights over the new 250 raptor. I don't know where yamaha gets off claiming they have the lightest sport ever made... My 86 230 used to weigh in at 315 lb wet and ready to ride. Now that I have the 250 engine in it, it weighs 330 or so. The raptor weighs 313 dry! By the time you fill it with oil, gas, and stick a battery in, it will weigh more than 350 I'm sure.

[live4speed]

your best place to find some parts for the old quadsports is probably ebay...

[JustRandy]

Those magneto covers are like gold on ebay. Sometimes new ones sell for less. Gotta be careful.

[Screamin_Chicken68]

Thanks for the info guys. As of right now the future of the quad is just get it running. I ran the tests today and here is what I found....

Coil Primary - 1.3

Secondary - 14

Lighting Circut - 1.5

Pick Up - 121.8

Then I did the power source coil got nothing for a reading.... as I got looking at the coil I noticed a slight tear in the coating tested from one side of the coil to the tear and had a reading of 219.7... I cleaned it up with some cleaner put some solder paste in there heated it up with my solder gun and dropped a piece of solder in there.... retested on both sides of the coil and got a reading of 216.9 at plug my reading is now 202.3 so that is in specs but I still have no fire so I am looking to see if there is a way to test the cdi box. I know on my phazer there was a way to test the cdi box (I would have to look in the manual for the procedure but I know I did it) but this manual for the quad I have has no mention of it..... I really dont want to buy a new cdi box without knowing for sure. I have been thinking about a mild build on the quad but the wife keeps reminding me that it is for the LITTLE boy to ride....(wonder what she means by that? LOL) I have seen some really nice ones so I would like to get this thing running and looking A+. I have been looking at what is out there for performance parts and havent really found much.... pipes here and there but how about oversize valves and crazy cams I did see a 230 with a turbo that would be kinda cool ...*SMACK* had to wake myself up..... this is my boys machine. I will get some pics of this thing when I get it running... I swear it is the worst I have ever seen.... Lots O' work lots O' fun. I have found a few parts on ebay, have a set of rims and tires coming the shifter assembly a brake caliper for the rear and a set for the front and I am looking at the A frames I have a bent one but one thing that does surprise me is the magneto case is not broke... YET, case saver is the first new thing I am buying.. lol

Again thanks guys

[JustRandy]

I know of no way to test the cdi. The kawasaki bayou has a method listed in their manual, but I don't know if it would work for the 230 cdi or not.

You can get all kinds of cams. Webcams and Megacycle are the best. You can get an oversize intake valve too if you want. I started to, but couldn't find anyone to grind the seat, so I left it alone. What's 1mm?

Wait till you ride it once.... You'll be surprised at the torque. It has a 66x67mm bore n stroke. 67 mm stroke is longer than the warrior! And most any other quad. Its a very unique ride.

Check your swingarm bearings! Thats the #1 problem on these quads. Bearings wear out and you'll throw the chain all the time. You may have to replace the bolt and everything to get the bearings nice n tight. Having the chain too tight is what kills the bearings. Put your weight on the grab bar and make sure the chain is still loose. If its tight, it will destroy the bearings after a jump or big bump.

[Screamin_Chicken68]

Damn dude you are a plethra of knowledge. Thanks for everything. I need a guy like you around here..... where you live? LOL I could see it now cold beer sitting looking at a stripped frame and me asking millions of questions.... LOL I have been noticing that rear axels are going for big money on ebay now I know why.... once I get this thing fired(hell I dont care if it runs I just want to see spark) I am going to strip it down and new bearings and bushings was my first priority. I found a big bore kit for it...... not sure yet. Like you said ride first and go from there. I just picked up a 300 quadrunner needs cam and chain maybe I will have boy work on that one and buy his off of him.... we will see. Thanks for everything. I will keep you posted.... ordering a cdi box today... man are they salty!

[JustRandy]

I'm in North Georgia... Mountain area. It all started with me with a $200 smoker that filled my garage with smoke in 30 seconds! I tore it down and .060 wiseco piston... I found a forum with lots of guys running BB kits in em so I threw a lot of money at the thing and didn't stop until I've been thru every part and made it my business to know everything about everything. I can tell ya the best thing to do right off the bat, but a 230 will never be a 450. Stop now if that's what you're after or if you think you can somehow save money by pouring a fortune into a 230 little bits at a time. But if you want something that is light, has a heritage, is relatively powerful for its size, and you don't mind settling for a 250cc engine,,, then go for it!

I love mine and will never sell it. 1) I can throw it in my truck with no ramps or help from anyone. 2) Its always a conversation piece... Nobody cares if you have the same thing they do... There's nothing to talk about. 3) It only has potential to rise in value. 4) Its pretty easy to wrench on and is pretty reliable. 5) And its a pretty fun little machine to ride. More people than not are hooked after the first ride. 6) Mine will easily take a stock warrior.

[Screamin_Chicken68]

I look at it like this..... first off I am 40 now and spent my time racing dirt bikes and go carts and the such. If I want to go fast anymore I do it at our local circle track. I have flown the bikes in the air when I was 16 if I want to fly now I take a plane.... the old body dont heal like it used to so I am not into all that and if I want to smoke a 450 I have a CR250 that is about the quickest bike around here in northren Pennsylvania. Mostly though this is to ride around in the fields and the mountains and just play around on with the kids. I am probably going to put more money into this thing than should be allowed by law but... for the fun and everything else around here plus NOONE has one. I am not the kinda guy who has to buy a blaster because everyone has it I would much rather have something noone else has.... this is an area of Chevy truck, Kawasaki road bikes and Blasters or Banshees for quads...... I like Mopars, Harleys and suzukis and because Suzukis dont have a snowmobile I own yamahas and Ski Doos.... So I am deffinately not in this to impress it is for my fun adn enjoyment and to teach a young quader how to love and respect something he has built himself. Still waitng on my CDI box.

[JustRandy]

If you like harleys and that torque, you'll like the 230. Its a real stump puller and can rev out too.

If you want to put a lot of money in it and really do it right, check the rod before you put an expensive bore job on it or BB kit. Vince, at that link I posted in the beginning, can redo your crank with a new rod for $115. My .060 wiseco didn't last 9 months (of me beating on it ) before it started smoking again. When the rod slops around inside, the piston slops around inside the bore and it doesn't take long to wear the cylinder down.... Or worse.

Here's a friend of mine's engine after he put a brand new 260 kit in. He only got to ride it a couple hours and BOOM!

This set is another guy I met on the forums.... His rod broke the same week. Kinda scary huh?

If you can get your hands on the 250 version (1989 and 1990), its the same thing only better rod (17mm instead of 16mm and 4 or 5 mm longer), stock at 246cc, better port geometry and stock with a +1 intake valve size, extra clutch disc (7 plates instead of 6), and lower 4th gear. Other than that, its the same engine.

Those quads are also "collectable" and have more value to me. They only made them 2 years and suzuki didn't make another sport quad until the 2003 model. They have longer a-arms, longer rear axle, wider swingarm, and much better shocks (rear has a rezzie). It was Suzuki's answer to Honda's 250x and the Mojave. Before getting too carried away, you might consider trying to track one of those down to build up. Or, you could restore the 85-86 version.

I ended up finding a 250 engine on ebay for $250 and my buddy found a whole quad for $350.

The problem with the 250 quad is finding parts (what doesn't cross over with the 230 that is). Plastics are almost impossible to find. All the used ones are cracked up... Something with the plastics sucked in those years.

[Screamin_Chicken68]

Ouch!!!! Well the first thing I plan on doing is rebuilding the crank... newe rod, bearing, ect. I have learned the hard way from racing RM250s is NEVER forget about the crank. I really dont think I am going to go bigger with anything. Totaly stock is fine with me, well maybe a pipe but not much else. Unless I do find another motor then maybe build that one and leave this one stock. I have been thinking very hard about it and after everything you have told me I think this thing will turn out fine stock. I might start looking for a 250. Along time ago I had an LT500 Quadzilla and that thing was NASTY. I think a 250 would suffice now that I am not 20 anymore. LOL Thanks for every think Randy and I will get some pics up of this thing and see what you think.

[JustRandy]

Call up Vince n talk with him for a while... He likes to talk about 230's.

You'll need a flywheel puller to get the crank out. You can either take the engine to a shop and borrow theirs, or buy one online. I can give you a link where I bought mine if you want. Its a pain trying to find one because they aren't listed under 230, but some DR or DS suzuki. I pulled mine, so I know it works. I think they're $20-$30.

With the pipe, you could just poke a big hole in the spark arrestor in the stock muffler and if you want a spark arrestor, get the wire screen stuff and put it over the end of the pipe. The stock spark arrestor is a turbine looking thing that spins the air and slings sparks off to the side... Its REALLY restrictive! A wire screen is much better. I used a leafblower and chop-saw to figure out what the biggest restrictions were in the exhaust. The baffle really doesn't slow the air down much, but the spark arrestor is a drag. Those Cobra exhausts are really loud and I doubt they boost the HP much. I think your best bet is keeping the stock muffler and killing the spark arrestor. Its cheaper too.

I'll post some pics later.

[JustRandy]

Here is the spark arrestor:

Here's my leafblower illustrating that reverse magephones add resistence to airflow:

Here's a Jardine next to a stock.... The stock ran much better and was quieter:

[Screamin_Chicken68]

Wow so let me ask ya this.... how much better performace wise is stock with the spark arrestor hollowed out? or possibly something like a turbo tube car muffler attached instead of the arrestor?