Font forks binding--who has expeirenced

Who has had their front forks bind and get twisted from a either a fall over or a crash? I need to find a way to make these ktm's forks from doing this so easy. I already torque the top bolts to 20 n/m and the lower to 15 n/m ( stock is 17 and 12 ). Any other ideas?

Just had this happen to me yesterday.. Front end locked up went over the bars. Not sure exactly what caused it. Everything up front felt weird after that so I stopped riding. Im gonna take everything apart this week put it all together and torque everything and see how that works.Pretty weird never had a bike do that.

My forks twist all the time when I crash hard. Happens on every bike I have had.

I've never worried about it. I just straddle and pinch the front tire with my knees and jerk the bars to straighten out the front end and take off again.

Well another thing to consider is how you install everything in the front.That has a huge roll on binding/twisting. I went for years installing my forks and front tire when i got it back from a suspension tuner the wrong way.You may already know this but maybe someone reading does not. This si the way I do it others maybe different but this works.

1.Install one fork at a time,being careful not to over tighten lower triple clamp bolts.Also be sure to raise fork into the clamps to proper height so the machined line is showing above top clamp. Again, top clampbolts should be tighter than bottom clamps. Then install forks in the same way.

2.Install axle through front wheel with spacers. Tighten Axel nut (you may have to tighten one axle pinch bolt on the other side to hold axle). Then tighten brake side pinch bolts. Go to the other side and loosen pinch bolts that was tightened to hold axle.

3.With front wheel off the ground and pointed forward, grab bottom of RIGHT fork with pinch bolts loose and push in or pull out to make sure it moves freely. If it does not gently tap a small screw driver into the split of axle clamp. Let the fork tell you where it wants to sit by gently pushing it in or pulling out and then letting it find the spot where it is not on a bind. Remember, if this fork is on a bind extended, it only gets worse as it is compressed. Tighten right side pinch bolts.

I know after I went down yesterday I started riding again and when I was landing or hitting bumps it was really harsh feeling totally different than before. It was all because the forks were binding..It just felt like super harsh suspension but it was nothing but the forks not sitting correctly so everything else was off. I got everything apart right now and going to put it back together should be golden. Everything above I have been doing for the past few years that was from mx1 in his words so easier to explain.Hope this helps.

Hoss

3.With front wheel off the ground and pointed forward, grab bottom of RIGHT fork with pinch bolts loose and push in or pull out to make sure it moves freely. If it does not gently tap a small screw driver into the split of axle clamp. Let the fork tell you where it wants to sit by gently pushing it in or pulling out and then letting it find the spot where it is not on a bind. Remember, if this fork is on a bind extended, it only gets worse as it is compressed. Tighten right side pinch bolts.

I kind of do the same thing, but instead of moving the lower fork leg by hand I get on the bike and then compress the forks hard repeatedly. But then again, I am overweight and tall so this is easier for me than bending over. Then I tighten up the pinchbolts, never over torquing. :bonk:

I also clean my axle every time I pull it out and hit it with some anti-sieze where it gets pinched when installing it.

good points guys, i do all that. i just dont understand why these bind so EASY.. i expect them to bind if i crash hard or hit a tree but not after falling over or sliding out. im gonna try to tighting the top two bolts to 20 n/m and the three lower bolts to the recomended 12 n/m and see if that helps any. i also thought about trying an aftermarket tripple clamp.

Well another thing to consider is how you install everything in the front.That has a huge roll on binding/twisting. I went for years installing my forks and front tire when i got it back from a suspension tuner the wrong way.You may already know this but maybe someone reading does not. This si the way I do it others maybe different but this works.

1.Install one fork at a time,being careful not to over tighten lower triple clamp bolts.Also be sure to raise fork into the clamps to proper height so the machined line is showing above top clamp. Again, top clampbolts should be tighter than bottom clamps. Then install forks in the same way.

2.Install axle through front wheel with spacers. Tighten Axel nut (you may have to tighten one axle pinch bolt on the other side to hold axle). Then tighten brake side pinch bolts. Go to the other side and loosen pinch bolts that was tightened to hold axle.

3.With front wheel off the ground and pointed forward, grab bottom of RIGHT fork with pinch bolts loose and push in or pull out to make sure it moves freely. If it does not gently tap a small screw driver into the split of axle clamp. Let the fork tell you where it wants to sit by gently pushing it in or pulling out and then letting it find the spot where it is not on a bind. Remember, if this fork is on a bind extended, it only gets worse as it is compressed. Tighten right side pinch bolts.

I know after I went down yesterday I started riding again and when I was landing or hitting bumps it was really harsh feeling totally different than before. It was all because the forks were binding..It just felt like super harsh suspension but it was nothing but the forks not sitting correctly so everything else was off. I got everything apart right now and going to put it back together should be golden. Everything above I have been doing for the past few years that was from mx1 in his words so easier to explain.Hope this helps.

Hoss

KTM´s are kinda picky over the right tensioned front axle. You should (really should) have the front axle torqued at 40 Nm on bikes up to 2010. 2010 wants 45 Nm´s, probably due the new triple clamp . That assures the fork legs aren´t binding inward/outward.

It´s also very important not to overtighten axle pinch bolts. Max. 10 Nm and that´s hardly more than finger tight.

If you want to be sure that forks are aligned in the clamps then take two long,straight steel rulers and put one of them against the fork legs just under the upper triple clamp (front nr. plate removed) and one about 10 inches down from lower fork leg (you need an helping hand here) and while sitting/standing on a bike line those rulers up perfectly.

Do all the tightening mentioned above after that´s done.:bonk:

You should (really should) have the front axle torqued at 40 Nm on bikes up to 2010.

the book calls for 29 Nm....but the book isnt always right...

It´s also very important not to overtighten axle pinch bolts. Max. 10 Nm and that´s hardly more than finger tight.

10 Nm is very very light! It seems that by doing it this way that the forks would be able to move more down by the axle.?.? wouldnt that cause them to bind easier after a fall or hard hit?

what Nm torque are you using for the top clamps and bottom clamps on the 08-09 bikes?

My book calls for 40 Nm untill -09. The -10 book says 45 Nm.

18Nm upper and 12Nm lower. And yes - 10Nm is light. It should be.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now