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Dr 650 clutch slipping

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Clutch Slipping

Hey guys,

This weekend I noticed at WOT the clutch was slipping. I have never noticed a problem before, and had adjusted the clutch at the lever a day or tow ago. The bike has almost 10,000 mi on it. Is it possible it needs a clutch already? I make it a habit never to ride the clutch it is all on or all off. Any thoughts?

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do you go off road alot? changed gearing? how bout clutching wheelies? the dr clutch may last 5000 or 25000+.

there isn't too much info out there about detailed clutch replacement. mine went out and i have 20000 on the bike.

i have bought all my parts and now just need to find the time to fix the thing. people say it is a easy job for normal people. i think i am waiting for a 3 day weekend:bonk:

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seems very early for a clutch replacement to me. Mines sitting on 19,000 miles and is as good as new. I do slip it a bit as well, particularly offroad in 2nd gear with stock gearing or launching from the lights

I see clutch kits on ebay all the time. As for replacing it, piece of piss honestly.

Get either a fresh gasket or liquid gasket and all your bits.

Undo the side cover bolts, pull the cover off

undo the clutch bolts in a criss-cross pattern, then remove them, remove the springs the bolts were holding in.

Slide the pressure plate off, slide the friction and clutch plates out.

Reinstall new ones in the same order (remember if the first and last plates are either friction or clutch, it should start and end with a friction plate).

Pressure plate goes back on, slide springs back in, push bolts in and redo them one at a time in a criss cross pattern, bit by bit. Don't tighten them all the way down at once

Scrape the old gasket off, this part takes the longest

Apply new gasket

Carefully insert the side cover back on making sure not to pinch or tear the gasket (I find laying the bike on it's side and putting the gasket on the engine case first is easiest)

Tighten side cover bolts

Refill with oil and pray nothing weeps out the side cover gasket

Warm the engine up, check carefully for oil weeps

If you want to adjust the clutch properly now before riding it the bike off the ground. Pull the clutch in and bang it into 1st. Ideally the wheel will either jolt and come to a stop, or not even move at all.

If it's still spinning tighten the clutch cable at the handlebar end. Though a minimal amount of drag is fine as long as it does affect engine RPM at all when applying the rear brake

Get the bike off the stand, be gentle with the clutch for the first few rides to give it a bit of time to bed in. If there was any drag it should settle in the first few rides. The last clutch I replaced was on a YZ250 and it didn't like being slipped at all, it was either on or off so I had to give it hell to wear the friction plates down a bit. The DR should remain smooth and progressive though

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seems very early for a clutch replacement to me. Mines sitting on 19,000 miles and is as good as new. I do slip it a bit as well, particularly offroad in 2nd gear with stock gearing or launching from the lights

I see clutch kits on ebay all the time. As for replacing it, piece of piss honestly.

Get either a fresh gasket or liquid gasket and all your bits.

Undo the side cover bolts, pull the cover off

undo the clutch bolts in a criss-cross pattern, then remove them, remove the springs the bolts were holding in.

Slide the pressure plate off, slide the friction and clutch plates out.

Reinstall new ones in the same order (remember if the first and last plates are either friction or clutch, it should start and end with a friction plate).

Pressure plate goes back on, slide springs back in, push bolts in and redo them one at a time in a criss cross pattern, bit by bit. Don't tighten them all the way down at once

Scrape the old gasket off, this part takes the longest

Apply new gasket

Carefully insert the side cover back on making sure not to pinch or tear the gasket (I find laying the bike on it's side and putting the gasket on the engine case first is easiest)

Tighten side cover bolts

Refill with oil and pray nothing weeps out the side cover gasket

Warm the engine up, check carefully for oil weeps

If you want to adjust the clutch properly now before riding it the bike off the ground. Pull the clutch in and bang it into 1st. Ideally the wheel will either jolt and come to a stop, or not even move at all.

If it's still spinning tighten the clutch cable at the handlebar end. Though a minimal amount of drag is fine as long as it does affect engine RPM at all when applying the rear brake

Get the bike off the stand, be gentle with the clutch for the first few rides to give it a bit of time to bed in. If there was any drag it should settle in the first few rides. The last clutch I replaced was on a YZ250 and it didn't like being slipped at all, it was either on or off so I had to give it hell to wear the friction plates down a bit. The DR should remain smooth and progressive though

I have replaced serveral clutches on other bikes, so replacing isn't that big of a deal. I was more curious if someone has had a similar issue, or if these clutches are usually toast after 8-10,000 mi? I did the adjustment las night using the slide nuts on the cable. I will ride it tonight and see how she does. Thanks for all the help guys.

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There a few other possibilites too. If your bike is old, the clutch springs could be weak, even with low mileage on them. You could have adjusted the cable improperly, or if it's old it could be stretched so much that it won't adjust properly. Your oil could also be causing the slippage.

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There a few other possibilites too. If your bike is old, the clutch springs could be weak, even with low mileage on them. You could have adjusted the cable improperly, or if it's old it could be stretched so much that it won't adjust properly. Your oil could also be causing the slippage.

The bike is an '08 and has right at 10,00 mi. I just adjusted the cable, but it has been raining so I haven't had a chance to ride it. I will keep posted how it turns out.

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