License plate blown apart...again

I have had license plates fracture and break off before...I believed mainly due to only 2 anchor points...which allowed to much movement resulting in metal fatigue and fracture.

So I mounted my current plate down with 4 pop rivets...eliminating the ability to vibrate.

This worked well for quite some time.

This did leave "wings" of about a 1 inch overhang where the plate extended beyond the tail fender. But when I put the MRD-SSW on...the exhaust was aimed directly at that wing sticking out.

After a few months of riding 475 with MRD-SSW...the exhaust pulses hit my plate with enough force to cause the plate to fracture from top rivet to bottom rivet on the exhaust side. Last night on my way home it apparently broke off...loosing about 25% of my plate.

If I ever figure out a way to mount a plate and have it live on the back of my bike...I will let you know.

Anybody else experience this?

Try putting a rubber grommet in the mounting holes.

I eat a License plate every 2 years after replasing the bolts with plastec ones

some how they do not transfur the viberation so badly

I just got done modding mine.IMG_2184.jpg

Make a backing plate for the license plate. Use aluminum sheet that's at least twice the thickness of the license plate, you can drill holes in it to remove some of the weight if you're worried about that. Fasten the license plate to that and then attach the whole assembly to the bike. How was your license plate mounted onto the bike? You said you used rivets, where were they attached on the bike? If you are just sticking it right onto the rear fender you will need something more substantial if the exhaust is hitting it. You can beef up the fender with more aluminum on the underside. Then you will be able to use bolts to mount the plate and it should be pretty much bullet proof.

another pic


I bolt the current plate together at all 4 corners with an old plate so it's double thickness. This was a big problem with my KTM 625 SMC because of the vibes. I actually epoxied and bolted two plates together for the 625.

I made something very much like Killerdwarf's, except mine is a little more hillbilly style. I simply used L brackets and made supports that goes all the way arond the back side of the plate. Then, I cut a bit of rubber hose to cushion the bolts. Works great going on 4 years now. Looks OK too, you can't see any of my redneck engineering work.

Same boat, my Yosh thump-thump-thumps the plate so much that after a while, it just shakes itself loose and VOILA! She's gone!

I just lost mine the other day, so I have to do the NYS dance.....go to police station, fill out a "missing/stolen plate" report, then stand on line at the DMV. Hand over cash......repeat!

ive had the same problem in the past.i use a plastic semi mudflap.i cut it to size and mount that to my tail light then the plate to the cut out mudflap.its worked for the last 3 years but i now have to cut another piece out because the mudflap has melted a little but it still is doing the job

The thing that has worked for me (And I do hardcore off-road with mine)...Is to take sheet metal and cut it out to the same dimensions as the license plate. Then rivet the license plate to the sheetmetal. Now mount it with at least 3 or 4 screws to something metal. If you are attaching to a plastic fender then you have to make another sheet metal cut out to put on the tire side of the rear fender drilling holes through it for the license plate screws. Otherwise you'll eventually yank the plate and screws right out of the plastic. I used to lose a plate several times a year...After doing this I haven't lost one (And I have these large Africa Plates to deal with).

Try putting a rubber grommet in the mounting holes.

+1 :bonk:

I just use zip ties through the holes and 2 more in holes in the bottom.

I glued mine to a double layer of clear lexan ,been ok since early in the spring.

Also fitted 2 strips at the bottom ,see the piccie


I haven't done it, but I saw a picture of a DRZ with the plate in the wheel well right under the seat. Not sure if it is legal here, but it is visible from behind and it would get it out of the way of the exhaust. I haven't had any problems with mine yet :bonk:

the bug

Haven't had a problem with my license plate with the MRD yet. The existing "burnt" plate was caused by the old Hindle Ti pipe I had. I have destroyed about 2 sets of rear signals though with the MRD.

Have you tried running a "license plate frame" with your license plate yet?

Sounds like you need something to stiffen up the plate like this. :bonk::bonk:


I have a nice 1/4 inch sheet of aluminum cut a little bit smaller than the tag. Then I bolted the tag to it with four steel bolts with locknuts. Havn't had any problems since:thumbsup:

The first one only lasted a few months. It's somewhere in the Jersey pines.

Off set this one to the left (away from exhaust pulse) a nice layer of silicone between the plate and mount.

So far so good.


I went with the edge and I made some Plate backers out of Expanded PVC. THey are about 1/4" thick and really absorb vibration. PM me if you want one $10 including shipping. I also throw in an acrylic cover plate if you want it. I'm still on my first one and have 5k on the bike.

Have hooked up half a dozen TT ers with them.


Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By BikeChimp
      I'd like to turn my UK 2004 DRZ400S back to stock airbox (snorkel) and jets, needle shim position etc
      When I bought it the PO had fitted a Sigma6 kit and done the 3x3 mod but is doesn't have a tapered needle like the JD and other kits. Took me ages to get it running right, however it still runs rich and I'm fed up of arsing around with it. 
      So I've bought a standard airbox without 3x3 hole, stock exhaust.
      Q1 The Suzuki manual says this Mukuni BSR36 (29FA) carb should have a 142.5 Main Jet but the Clymer manual say its a 135.  In UK everything's from sea level to 1000m. I'm in Sheffield so nothing gets above 500m even in the Peaks (Hills). Any UK owners or anyone else know what the correct jet should be?
      Q2 Says the original needle is a '5DH36-2nd'. The needle has 5 notches on it. Currently set at 2 clip from bottom. The Suzuki reference says needle is 5DH36-2nd, Does the 2nd bit mean 2nd from top or bottom?
      Q3 - Does anyone have a detailed photo of the shim order just in case it was assembled wrong. (mine is attached)
      I know most people on here are going to be horrified I'm taking back to stock but any help on above would be really appreciated.

    • By Bgringo
      I've read a lot of threads about this but still haven't found exactly what I'm looking for.  I'm pulling my 2004 DRZ400S out of storage sometime this week and getting it ready for the season.  I live at 9,000 ft, but my first ride of the year is probably going to be at around 5,000 ft.  I was going to pull the 145 main jet I'm running and put in the 150 adjusting the needle from the 2 clip to the 3rd, then re-jet once I got home.  I already have the extended fuel mixture screw in place so I started thinking that I should just run the 150 jet set up and adjust the fuel screw to compensate for the higher elevation where I'll be doing most of my riding.  I will be going down in elevation for rides until late May or June depending on snowfall, but riding on the street when I'm able.  Are there any disadvantages with this?
      I'm new to posting on this forum, so please forgive me if I didn't get the right search words in and there is already a post about this.
    • By Markl5557
      I am currently running 10w 40 Belray non synthetic and I want to switch to full synthetic amsoil .... is it ok to switch from regular to synthetic? I have read it’s not safe to go from synthetic to regular can someone explain if it’s safe to go from regular to synthetic!? Thanks !
    • By RockyMtnMark
      Good Morning,
        Last night I measured my valve clearances for the very first time (I know...) on my DRZ400S.  It's a 2002 and I've owned is since 2011.  I bought it with t's got about 15,000 miles on it and most of it's miles these days are on dirt.
      Intake specs are 0.10-0.20 mm.  Exhaust specs are 0.20-0.30
      My intake valve clearances are in spec, forgot to write them down.  My exhaust valve clearances are between 0.1778 and 0.2032 which is slightly out of spec.  They are no more than 25 microns out of spec.  My question is, do I really need to shim these?  Will this kind of out-of-spec cause performance, mechanical, or other losses?  As far as I can tell, I'd have to buy a whole shim kit which is like $80.  Thanks!
    • By Zach440
      Selling my 2009 Drz400sm. Been a great bike but it’s time to let go . Not looking for any trades - spring is just around the corner ! Located in northern Virginia . Cash only $4200- willing to negotiate I have some wolfman luggage options available as well. Love to make a package deal for someone 

      -11640 miles . Mild off-road never wrecked.
      -Oil / filter changed every 1500 miles
      -New did chain , brake pads , front sprocket at 10400 miles .
      - valves checked and within spec at 10,000
      - jetted with JD kit and 3x3 mod
      -doubletake mirrors
      -waterproof usb wired and located next to Speedo
      - drc large foot pegs , barkbusters with integrated turn signals . 12oclocklabs tall delete with upgraded circuit board
      -thumpertalk case savers
      -sergeant seat (amazing) and Clarke 3.9 tank (190mile range )
      - fog lights wired in so they shut off with high beams
      -Shorai lithium battery
      -led headlight

      - stock gas tank and seat will be included

      The bike is dirty in photos and I apologize my water is currently disabled outside due to freezing temps . Radiator guards and skid plate NOT included but can be for some extra $$. Rear tire could be replaced but front is fine .