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Is this normal?

By 2coldnpagosa,
in 250-530 EXC-F/XCF-W/XCR-W

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2coldnpagosa

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I've referenced the RFS valve adjust video on youtube which is awesome though he makes it look a bit too easy. I seem to fight with the flashlight, screwdriver, radiator and 10mm!

What I've run into twice now is when I go to adjust the intake valves (toward the rear tire) they are tight, no gap at all. Both times I have found the exhaust valves just slightly out of adjustment. I'm no motor head though I attempt to do all my own work, within reason. Is what I'm finding between the valves normal? Getting ready for the KTM DS ride in Payson, don't want to DNF! Thx!

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L-vie

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KTM's intake valves are very soft and will tighten up. Plan on adjusting them every 15 hrs.

The exhaulst valve should hardly ever move.

Use the 1/6 method for adjusting the valves.

When you run out of adjustment on the intakes, ship your head to Dave Hopkins on this site (DJH on KTMTalk) and have him do the over size KW valves and you won't hardly every have to adjust them and enjoy some power increase.

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monkeydebt

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I also have to slightly adjust the intakes every 15 hours. My bike has 220 hours and I'm sure that small amounts of talc have found its way into the carb. I know this effects longevity. I find I have to loosen them about .001. every adjustment (15hrs.). When they will adjust no longer, I will send the head to the experts. Very happy camper with the 400 RFS.:bonk:

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Burnrider

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I also have to slightly adjust the intakes every 15 hours. My bike has 220 hours and I'm sure that small amounts of talc have found its way into the carb. I know this effects longevity. I find I have to loosen them about .001. every adjustment (15hrs.). When they will adjust no longer, I will send the head to the experts. Very happy camper with the 400 RFS.:bonk:

2001 to 2005 RFS owners have long complained about dirt in the carb. Mine has been dusted several times. After checking carb boots, the plastic bell connected to the back of the carb and installing a carb vent kit- there was still dirt in the bell and slide. The Twin-air was sealed up perfectly.

I finally replaced the spring clip from the engine vent tube to the carb taper-dowel with an automotive hose clamp. Tougher to install, but so far okay.

Evidently the RFS can east some dirt and live with it. After performing a leakdown test and checking it several times, the bike is only at 5% compression loss.

Valve wear is most likely normal wear for some good hard riding. Don't throw away the piston and ring seal with preventable dirt exposure.

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Dave Hopkins

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You can simplify life by acknowledging the exhaust don't need adjustment (and are a lot of work to get to with radiators), intake are easy and need adjustment abt every 15 hours to keep the engine starting good. If you get to the point that it starts when cold, then when hot stalls easy and does not want to restart until its cooled down, you waited too long. Also as the intake wear engine temps will go up. The replacment valves I use will last much longer, recomended checking is "every December" and I have a set on the shelf over my bench with something like 9,000 miles (bike had 12K, 3K with stock valves)

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