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wr426 2002 tuning carb...too lean or too rich

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i know someone with a wr426...and i have a some questions, can you help!!!

1 the carb has a red dial with numbers on it to determine the fuel mixture position....is that a factory knob for that bike or is that an after market upgrade?

2. what should be the staring position of the fuel mixture be at to begin with for tuning?

....its a used bike so we don't know it the carb is stock or has been jetted...bike has mods...air box mod and exhaust fmf pipe with power bomb header.....which makes me think the carb might be jetted...the bike has some good torque to it....maybe cause of rear sprocket...not sure....

3. so if the carb has been jetted what should the starting point of the fuel mixture be set at to start?

4. is turing the screw clockwise make it run lean or rich?

5. currently he as tried to tune it, but he tells me it is overheating so i told him it is too lean...adjust the other direction....in what size increments should he be turning?

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1) After market extended fuel screw, fuel screw affects idle only

2) Ignore the numbers, they are for reference purposes only. - See Below

3,4) See Below

5) Ride the bike, get it fully heated. Tweaking of the fuel screw should take all of 5 seconds. Do not let your bike sit idling, it will over heat wityh no air passing over the radiators. It has not thing to do wit being lean or rich. Your 'guy' is no guru.

Fuel Screw/Pilot Jet

Fuel screw settings in the 'book' are recommended starting points. Every bike is different, as is the temp and altitude. Set the screw according to this method. Do it with the bike fully heated up.

Gently turn the screw all the way in. Now back it out two turns. Start the bike and fully warm it up, go for a 10 minute ride. Set the idle to speed to 1,500~1,800 RPM as best you can (I know, without a tach this is tough, just set it to were it idles relatively smoothly). Once warmed, slow the idle to the lowest possible speed.

*** When turning the fuel screw, keep an accurate 'count' of the amount you are turning it and record it in case you have to reset it for some reason. Makes life easier when you can just set it from notes Vs. going through the procedure again.***

Turn the screw in until the idle becomes rough or the bike stalls.

if it stalled, open the screw about 1/4 more turn. Restart it and slowly screw it in till you can just perceive a change.

If the screw can be turned all the way in and the bike still idles perfectly and does not stall, then you need to go down a size in pilot jet.

Now very slowly, open the fuel screw till the idle is smooth. Blip the throttle, let the bike return to an idle, wait say ten seconds. Confirm it is the same smooth idle.

If the screw has to be opened more than 3 turns to get a smooth idle, you need to go up a size in pilot jet.

If you find it does not stall with the larger jet but has to be open more than three turns with the smaller pilot jet, put the larger one in and set the fuel screw at 1/2 turn.

If the idle speed increased, adjust the idle speed knob to return the bike to a real slow idle speed. You must then re-visit the fuel screw. Keep doing this till the fuel screw is opened just enough to provide a nice steady idle at the lowest possible RPM. Once this is done, increase the idle speed to the normal one for your bike, typically about 1,800 rpm, but go by the spec in your manual.

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