Moble 1 oil

I made the switch and it seams to me that I get alot of clutch chatter at low RPMs, I want to switch to something else but what? What is the best oil or what oil do you guys like?

I had a 00 yz426, used yamahalube, and my clutch was fine. I put mobil 1 in it, and it ruined the clutch instantly. It made it grabby as hell. :) New fibers fixed it, but I'll never use mobil one again. Some people on this site have used it and been ok though. Now I use valvoline all-climate 10-40 from auto-zone. Ever since I've had no problems.

Ouch! Sorry to hear that. My WR is new and I haven't changed oil yet. I bought two boxes of M1 15W50 red cap hoping to change it after every long day out. Now you got me concerned. What kind of M1 were you using?


I've had really good luck with Actevo as well as Amsoil 10-40. Both are synthetic with no 'moly'. Motorcross Action Mag had a great article on oils in March of this year. It's worth reading.

Most 4-stroke motorcycles are unique to the world of engines in the fact that they share a wet clutch and transmission with the engine oil. Add this to twice the normal operating rpm of an automobile engine, you come up with some special requirements of the oil. The word "synthetic" was fought over in court and has lost its true meaning, it is now more of a marketing tool. Most if not all of the "synthetic" oils at the local parts stores are a high grade petroleum based. Hydro-cracking I believe is the term used in the refining process, try a search on the net for some interesting reading. I have been using Mobil 1 in my car for 6 years now, it is not the same stuff today that I started using on my first oil change. If your interested in running a true synthetic look for the high dollar brands like amsoil(sp?), royal purple, redline, etc. Back to my first point, whether you run synthetic or not use an oil designed for motorcycle engines. They contain additives for what going on inside the case. In addition motorcycle oils can still run some additives that can not be put into general automotive oils due to damaging effect on emission control items like the catalitic converter and O2 sensors, all engines burn some oil.

I'm using Bel-Ray regular motorcycle oil but will switch to the Bel-Ray Thumper oil after 1st service. :)

Let us know how you like the Thumper Oil... I am trying to find other "semi" synthetics, but I think I'm going with the Bel-ray. I'm using golden spectro 10-40 for now, then switching. BTW when is a good time to switch to Syn ? I've heard alot of debate on the subject, but basically to wait until you have some miles on the bike.

JUST MY 2 CENTS I REPEAT JUST MY 2 CENTS.(yamakaze and all the other experts who think no one else can have an opinion) :moon:I read an article in one of the dirt bike rags and they talked about the difference between oils. :excuseme:They said the difference between them was so small it really did not matter as long as you change it often(which you should do any way).I buy what is on sale and usually dont pay more than 80 cents a quart,and have had no oil related problems and i ride more than average(over 10,000 miles in a year so far :D) :thumbsup:Just make sure there are no additives which you probably have in the oil you are using which is giving you the chatter!just a thought maybe not! :)

Opened up the old 'which oil' can of worms again. All I can say is I've used Mobile 1 redcap (15-50) in all my bikes for years and never had any trouble and I don't personally know anybody who has had trouble. I use my bike mainly off road which includes silty sand and long, steep, rutted hill climbs. I've never felt any slip or chatter in the clutch. I've got Magura juice clutch so I'm not going to see fade anyhow. Go ahead and try it or use the Yamalube, it's not much more expensive anyhow.

I used Honda oil until I had 500 miles on the bike then went to M1 red cap. What Im experiancing is what sounds like extreme chain chatter or clutch chatter when at low RPM or lugging the bike. I checked the chain rollers and swingarm rubber and they are fine. I now have about 1500+ miles on the bike, could it be a worn clutch?

I agree with my neighbor, Ratbiker! Change it often. I use Mobil 1 15-50 red cap. I would suggest that if you go synthetic, that you stay with the same brand of oil. Clutch plates sometimes don't agree with diets of different oils.

While motorcycle shops would be happy to sell you a $1 qt of oil for $3 cause it is motorcycle specific. I believe it is a marketing ploy.

My .02

Bryce :)

I am not sure what I will do, I just looked in my WR450 manual and it says no oils with a CE or greater rating. I looked at my M1 red cap jug and it shows a CE rating???

I agree with DesertChris that oils are not the same any more. I think I noticed oil quality change in Motul oils for the last 4 years. However I'm very happy with my Motul 300v competition :D oil. I have 10000km on my bike with no signs of wear, except for the clutch basket. :)

I believe the chatter you're hearing is coming from the valves. The WR450 doesn't like to be lugged. Seems to prefer mid-range to high RPMs. Anyone else notice this?

Hey Blue Man: It is quite possible the noise you are hearing is coming from the chain. My bike is real sensitive to proper chain adjustment or it chatters and sounds a lot like the clutch. I have seen other posts testifying to this. I thought it was my clutch then I put it up on the workstand and stuck it in gear and it was obvious it was just the chain slapping the plastic chain slider. Tightened it just a little and no more noise. Oh yeah one other thing, I think these bikes love to be lugged. Tim

Make sure your oil DOES NOT say "Energy Saving".

It's too slippery for your clutch.

While I would agree that most oils are the same and even most gas brands are the same, I would stick with Motorcycle specific oil. The reason that most oils and gases are very similar is that they are made to meet many different standards. In order to meet these standards most of the contents of the oil are already specified. Also, many of the manufacturers get their raw oil from many of the same refineries and are only allowed to play with about 5% (or less) of the oils content. The other 95% has been spec'd by the "standards".

As for using a motorcycle oil, they are designed to be used in a wet clutch environment where standard automotive oils are not.

Just my opinion


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