Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

The Eddie Mod - not the Taffy Mod

Recommended Posts

In the past few weeks we've had a couple of threads on how to deal with bogging in the slant body FCR. The Taffy Mod WAS the way to address this problem but this old man is saying that is now history. These two threads (to my knowledge) introduced The Eddie Mod. They are complete with pictures so there's no sense in my adding identical pix.

https://thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=832902

https://thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=846960

I needed to change jets from high altitude (7500' and up) to 600' so took the opportunity to do the Eddie Mod: 1) shortened the AP diaphram stopper, 2) wired the linkage, and 3) spread the metal arms until the linkage worked smoothly. Finished this morning and promptly took it out to see if it really worked. Long story short, my '03 GreenE has NEVER performed so well since I bought it almost 3 years ago. Every time I twisted the throttle seriously the front came up like it should, reliably and consistently. Instead of bogs I got lifts. I've never been able to get the front end up reliably before. I'm totally stoked.

So, if you've got a slant body and are having bogging problems when you yank on the throttle, forget the Taffy Mod. It's a waste of time. Instead, follow the two threads above and do The Eddie Mod.

As we all already knew, THAT MAN KNOWS HIS STUFF!

Thanks, Eddie. You are outasight. 😏

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
FCR - is that the stock carb or an aftermarket?

could be either.

this thread is for the old style slant body fcr. not the newer fcr-mx.

the old style slant body fcr was oe on older E models & kick only models.

can also be purchased aftermarket from sudco or cpw.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When I pull my bike apart again I'll be doing this one. Hell, might just pull it apart for the hell of it now

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I finally got to do test ride yesterday and WOW does it work, way better than the crf diaphram mod! Not only no bog, but revs like crazy all the way thru the range with the additional volume- happy camper here.

Eddie is the man..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I can't wait to inspect my FCR for wear on the plastic pump actuator arm -- if there is wear, I'm planning to make a small brass bushing to prevent future wear. This could be the answer to one of the tuning problems I've had with my 39.

It's so easy to overlook such a small detail, but it clearly has a big effect on the AP squirt timing, which has a HUGE effect on throttle response. Thanks for bringing this to our attention, and showing us the way to fix the problems.

Eddie, you ROCK!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

does it still make sense to do this mod if there is no wear on the hole or if like Al you bush the hole ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If anyone replaces their plastic linkage could I have the old one? I have access to a mini CNC mill and have a fettish for CNC parts. I would use mine, but then I gots to take apart my bike. So don't through it away, let me have it please!

S

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

did the eddie mod to my ktm today. works great! i did manage to nick the part of the 2 springs that are on the ap assembly with my dremmel ( making a notch to secure the wire) however , if i am correct you dont even need the spring now since the ap arm movement is wrist powered now right? before wiring( after cutting the diaphram) the duration became looonnngggg. once wired together its quick and powerful. i guess the spring isnt even doing anything now.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Im still having an issue with wiring the arm. it wants seperate at 3/4 throttle, and i dont want to force it.

I grinded it down flat on the diaphram rivet

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
did the eddie mod to my ktm today. works great! i did manage to nick the part of the 2 springs that are on the ap assembly with my dremmel ( making a notch to secure the wire) however , if i am correct you dont even need the spring now since the ap arm movement is wrist powered now right? before wiring( after cutting the diaphram) the duration became looonnngggg. once wired together its quick and powerful. i guess the spring isnt even doing anything now.

why where you near the spring with a dremel?

all the springs need to be intact.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Im still having an issue with wiring the arm. it wants seperate at 3/4 throttle, and i dont want to force it.

I grinded it down flat on the diaphram rivet

spread the fork.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...