06 Seized

I was climbing a muddy incline in 1st gear. Reving it out pretty bad. The engine started knocking and turned off. I was forced too start it cause I wasn't able to push it out. Too muddy and slippery. I made it out, engine knocking like a mutha. Got to about 2 miles from my house and the engine locks up. Kick starter locks up. It has oil. It has water. I haven't opened it up yet. You think its the piston rings? Crank bearings? RTiming chain slipped? I think the sounds came out of top end. Crossing my fingers.:excuseme:

You can count on it to be the piston/crank,you shouldnt have rode the bike after it started clanking as you most likely turned a piston change to a complete engine overhaul.

Good luck!

Sounds like that may be one expensive decision to ride the bike after obvious problems. Not a good thing to do.

Well, he said that he couldn't push it out... So should he of just left his bike? Its funny that he asked for help and you guys just tell him he made a bad decision.

I was about two valleys deep ina rain soaked hawaiian forest. i don't think anybody could have pushed this thing out. the bike seized because of oil starvation I think. The incline was pretty slippery but I've done it in my sleep. Not enough momentum and the bike pretty much came to a spinning stand still. Then the knocking. No oil in sight window. Well I'll just tear it down. It needed a rebuild anyway. Does anybody know where to get brand new engines? If not pobably buy a new bike and rebuild this slowly. Hate to do that cause it had head mods done by LA Sleeve.

Just took the topend off and its in good shape. Took the motor out too. I think its the crank. The trans shifts through all the gears.

any idea what kind of parts cost that will be? Curious siezed my bike on saturday wondering how much its gonna be in parts

The crank is like $275 on ebay. I don't know how much labor is. I think I'm doing it myself.

Im not saying there is nothing wrong with the hotrods crankshafts,but if it were me I would order a falicon knife rod and just change the rod on the oem crank.Its 30g lighter,that along with wiseco piston is 60-70g off the topend.Thats a lot less reciprocating mass meaning less vibrations,less prone to stalling,faster revving and more hp.

What it comes to main bearings I would use oem.On my last bike the oem had much more balls than the skf equivalent,and the tolerance was much smaller.

I don't stall. But i like the idea of faster reving. Thanks for the info. I'm more than likely going with the stroker crank from hotrods just for the ease factor. No need to go to a machinist. Friken $100 an hour.

I talked to Rafael from Falicon. Probably sending mu crank ther. Thank you for the heads up.

By the way it was a shim thats in between the rod and weights that broke a jammed it self in between the two.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now