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Rear shock cylinder adjustment 04 WR250F

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Hi Everyone,

New FMF slip on arrived in the mail today so I've been down the shed tinkering away. Few small challenges to overcome with the mounting of the pipe and clearance issues. Needed to run the spacer between sub frame and mid pipe to ensure clearance on the subframe. This has moved the mid pipe closer to the shock springs but no contact is being made. The spacer to keep the plastics off the pipe was marginally too small and left the plastic sitting against the pipe too, nothing an extra washer slipped in there couldn't fix though.

Overall pretty happy with the build quality of the pipe and the exhaust note it gives.

The problem I have however, is that the gas cylinder for the rear shock needs to be adjusted slightly. At the angle its at now the cap on the end of the valve will touch the exhaust when you lift the rear of the bike. Marginal clearance when sitting under free sag. Could someone tell me the procedure for doing this? I think its about a 23mm spanner to loosen, and then rotate and tighten. Just wanted to confirm.

Will be changing out the 175main for a 180 tomorrow aswell as its feeling a little flat on top. Not sure if I'll drop the clip one position on the needle yet. Time will tell.

Thanks, Jake

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The end cap doesn't screw in. A clip is the only thing that holds it in so, you should be able to turn it to a better angle. Though I have only turned one freshly rebuilt, before I charged it. I guess you can just try it. I just figured I'd let you know it's not threaded.

Edited by chris7521

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The end cap doesn't screw in. A clip is the only thing that holds it in so, you should be able to turn it to a better angle. Though I have only turned one freshly rebuilt, before I charged it. I guess you can just try it. I just figured I'd let you know it's not threaded.

Thanks for the reply. Not sure what you mean by the end cap though.

I'm specifically talking about the cylinder. It typically runs perpendicular to the frame and mine is sitting more verticle (from side view). I'll have a play with it and see what I can do.

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Couldn't move it by hand..

Here is photo 1 showing the base of the cylinder touching the exhaust. This is with the bike on a stand and the rear wheel off the ground.

Pic_1127_047.jpg

Image 2. The outer silver part has 2 flat edges like it can be turned with an open ender. Don't want to go cranking it undone if I'm going to have to recharge again after loosing all the nitrogen.

Pic_1127_048.jpg

So what do we all think?

I'm mean to be riding tomorrow morning, in about 10 hrs so any advice one can offer will be most appreciated. I don't particularly want to ride it with the pipe making contact with the valve every time the rear wheel leaves the ground. It doesn't sound like a wise idea.

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Yeah don't turn that! You'll take a bath with shock oil. The whole shock body is one casting including the reservoir. I'm talking about the cap that is actually touching the pipe. Like I said, it does turn but, not sure how well it would with a shock that's got pressure and that it's cap hasn't been turned since the day it was made. Not sure why they made the pipe like that. Might just be a little adjustment in the way it's mounted. That's probably where i would be looking myself. Good luck

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Yeah don't turn that! You'll take a bath with shock oil. The whole shock body is one casting including the reservoir. I'm talking about the cap that is actually touching the pipe. Like I said, it does turn but, not sure how well it would with a shock that's got pressure and that it's cap hasn't been turned since the day it was made. Not sure why they made the pipe like that. Might just be a little adjustment in the way it's mounted. That's probably where i would be looking myself. Good luck

Looking at the mounting of the pipe there's absolutely no way around it. The mount point in the midpipe is a one only kind of deal and due to the mounting point being so close to the shock res there's no way of doing it any other way.

I dont think I'll be able to reposition without discharging the res and then moving the end cap around. Might take it for a ride today (just on the trails) and keep an eye on it. It has a few mm clearance on the bikes stand. Better clearance under my weight and seems to only just be making contact when the swing arm is at full extension.

Frustrating never the less. I thought this new pipe would be an easy bolt on and go. Things are never as easy as they should be!

Edit: After closer inspection. By removing the cover from the valve stem and lifting the bike there is no contact on exhaust. So we're talking mm's here. I think it should be fine as it's not going to be exerting any real force onto the pipe or the valve stem. They are just going to touch every now and then and it won't be long enough to cause any heat transfer issues. It appears they just designed these pipes to run a tight fit.

Edited by Jakobi

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