2010 yz450 suspension?Anyone worked on it?

Does anyone have any experience with this bike yet?Im looking to get it revalved and resprung.I just wanted to know who has worked on it so far as I dont want to send it to someone who hasn't even touched one yet let alone tested any settings.Im a fairly aggressive B level mx racer at 6'2 and 210lbs so im looking for something fairly stiff.

Really not too big of fan of the whole Racetech setup on anything in paticular.Looking for more of just a standard revalve.Thanks for the info though.Any recommendations on the correct spring rate?

you need 0.48 fork and 5.6 shock, and if i was you id send it to enzo racing they specialize in yamaha's kyb stuff,some of the best suspension work you can get, rg3 also does realy good with them to and you can bet there already on top of it since they both do alot of pro bikes enzo especially with yamis, i had them do my 08 and 09 kawi 450 kyb's and man there do make miracle's happen

I would leave it alone,Just spring for your weight and you will love it. Not exactly the same but I have an 08 yz250f and just set up for my weight and suspension is awesome. Yamaha has the best stock suspension. i did not know the 2010 was on the east coast. How do you ike it.

So I made an attempt to order springs today and realized I cannot find anyplace that lists springs for the new yamaha.Do the older springs fit fine or does something else cross-refrence over?

Dunno too much about KYB but my bet is the -09 fork springs, at least, will fit. Call Enzo and ask them. They must know.

im not so sure that the 09s will fit, they have more travel this yr. 12.2in last yr was 11.8in so the springs must be longer this yr. rite?and the shock was 12.3 last yr. now its 12.4, but like i said and so did villektm enzo will know 4 sure give'm a call..[714-541-5218] nobody know more about kyb then them the owner was a kyb industry company test rider,engineer,and tech for a long time, 25 yrs. or more i think

are not the std springs around 0.48 and 5.6? have you checked the sag with the std springs?

The yzf in 2010 has plenty of damping as std, have you rode it yet?

Fork springs are the same as the '09 kxf450.....shock spring is the same as used on the '09 crf450 and the '09 kxf450

are not the std springs around 0.48 and 5.6? have you checked the sag with the std springs?

The yzf in 2010 has plenty of damping as std, have you rode it yet?

there .46 57

there .46 57

oppps hit the wrong # .46/5.5

i would just preload the std fork springs a little.

oppps hit the wrong # .46/5.5

Are you sure about those spring rates. KYB says there are 4.6N in fork and 56N in rear (-09 54N). I am not sure about US models...

ross maeda is THE man, he owns and runs enzo, he is the ONLY guy i have ever let touch my kyb suspenders. he goes to japan every year and helps to develop the factory settings. nobody knows kyb better or sooner than ross.!!!!!!!!!!!!

ross maeda is THE man, he owns and runs enzo, he is the ONLY guy i have ever let touch my kyb suspenders. he goes to japan every year and helps to develop the factory settings. nobody knows kyb better or sooner than ross.!!!!!!!!!!!!

without a doubt!

So I made an attempt to order springs today and realized I cannot find anyplace that lists springs for the new yamaha.Do the older springs fit fine or does something else cross-refrence over?

Did you try Yamaha dealer? they already have a parts list available on-line.


33D-22212-20 SPRING (K=54N/MM)

33D-22212-40 SPRING (K=58N/MM)  

33D-22212-C0 SPRING (K=54N/MM)  

33D-22212-E0 SPRING (K=58N/MM)  


33D-23141-20 .SPRING, FRONT FORK(K=45N/MM)  

33D-23141-30 .SPRING, FRONT FORK(K=46N/MM)  

33D-23141-40 .SPRING, FRONT FORK(K=47N/MM)  

These are for Japanese market, so you might have stiffer stock springs for you Americans. Not sure why there are two different parts numbers for Rear spring in same weight though....

Probably because there is a blue spring and a red rear spring.I didnt even think to try to order OEM ones.Time to check on a price.

just be sitting down when you do...

Well I got fork springs for $62.It was around a $1 or 2 over dealer cost.Retail was like 110 or something.The shock spring was $110 and retail was like $200ish.With the discount it wasnt bad at all.

Have you ridden the bike yet?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By Chris Edwards
      Hey guys, I'm wondering what suspension settings you all are running front and rear?  I have a 2017 crf 250r I'm a 210lb newer rider, my settings are currently set at,
      rear suspension low speed  at 12 clicks
      rear suspension high speed 2 turns
       rebound is 12 clicks.
      Left front fork inner chamber 150psi, outer  chamber 10psi, balance pressure 150psi
      Right front fork compression position 7 clicks, rebound 29 clicks
      Sag is 4"
      Thanks guys
    • By Stillwell Performance
      One of the most common calls we get here at the shop is “how do you recommend I go about tuning my suspension?” Good question! The second most common call is “I started turning clickers on the front/back/bottom/top etc. and now I don’t know what I did, help!” The amount of improvement you can gain from proper suspension setup is significant, if you go about it in the right way.
      Look at it this way: if you are 6ft. tall and get in your truck after your 5 ft. 3in. wife just drove it, the first thing you are going to do is adjust the seat/steering wheel, etc. for your size. The same thing goes for your bike’s suspension-last week we had (3) 2010 bikes in the shop for revalves at the same time. Identical models, one guy was a 150lbs. pro racing MX, the next guy was a “B” level GNCC racer and weighed 220, and the third guy was a 180lbs. trail rider. Same bike, three totally different setups!
      So with that in mind, here is where to start:
      • Grab your owners manual, a computer, clipboard and a scale. You cannot effectively start tuning until you determine if the correct springs (fork and shock) are on the bike for your weight. Put down the double cheeseburger, hop on the scale, and get your weight in street clothes. Add in for your gear, which typically runs between 20-30lbs. You can easily check recommended spring rates by visiting www.racetech.com under their spring rate calculator. Look in your manual (or ask your tuner) and see what rates are on the bike.
      • If you need to change spring rates-do it first. Trust me on this, trying to tune suspension with the wrong rates is not only frustrating, but you will be short changing yourself on the results. On most bikes the shock spring is easily changed, fork springs can be a bit more difficult-get qualified help if you need it.
      • Even if you are familiar with what “clickers” are, take a moment and read your manual. Determine what style of forks you have (closed cartridge or open cartridge), where the compression and rebound clickers are, and check to see if your shock has both a high speed and low speed compression adjustment.
      • Grab the right tools to adjust, load up and go find a typical piece of terrain to test on. By typical I mean your MX track, hare scrambles course or favorite singletrack. You don’t need to ride a 30 mile loop in order to adjust your bike, rather focus on finding a section of track/trail that has all the different types of jumps/bumps/whoops you encounter.
      • OK here is where I will preach a bit-everybody has a buddy or two that claims to “know suspension” and setup. This is YOUR bike, and unless you plan on dragging him around on the back of the seat the end result of your tuning should be focused on what feels good to YOU. Trust the feedback the bike gives you…..
      • SET YOUR RIDER SAG!!!!!!! This is critical to tuning properly. Again, look in your manual or ask your tuning dude.
      • If you do not have an idea of where to set your clickers, put them in the middle of their adjustment range. This is your baseline setting.
      • Gear up and get warmed up. It is important to be loosened up on the bike BEFORE you start tuning, or you run the chance of mis-diagnosing how the bike is feeling (I never start testing until I have at least 15-20 minutes of warmup time on the bike-I always ride stiff initially and sometimes do not get into a groove until then). Some guys can just jump on and pin the damn thing right from the truck. You know who you are, Wattsy……
      • Remember, this is a tuning session not the MXoN. Use you head and ride at a pace UNDER you max speed-there will be plenty of time to “fang it” once you have zeroed in on some good settings.
      • OK-ride and get a good feel for the bike with the clickers in the middle of their range. Now it’s time to really find out what “too soft” and “too hard” means.
      • Take your clickers and turn them all the way out, full soft. Go ride the bike, but take it easy-it will feel ALOT different. Then come back in and turn everything all the way stiff-go ride again, being careful as this will feel totally different again. For guys that have tuned a bit, these two steps might seem pretty basic, but you will be amazed at the difference in how the bike feels. This is especially helpful for guys who are just starting out.
      • Set everything back to baseline. FROM THIS POINT ON YOU WILL ONLY MAKE ONE ADJUSTMENT AT A TIME!!!!!!
      • So now you will want to determine your tuning range. The tuning range is what settings you will use to adjust for different conditions. For example, If you are an MX racer as well as an occasional singletrack rider you will want to use different settings for those conditions.
      • Fork compression is a good place to start. Ride your test section at baseline, then go about 3 clicks softer. The question to ask yourself after each adjustment is: Does it feel BETTER, WORSE, or THE SAME????
      • There are no right and wrong answers, only what you feel. So let's assume that the 3 clicks softer felt better-go 3 more clicks softer each time until it does not feel as good. You have just found the soft end of your fork compression tuning range. Now return to baseline and do the same thing, only this time go stiffer. After you have found the best compression setting, work on rebound. Remember, one adjustment at a time ONLY or you can become confused!!! Do the same testing with your shock. Once you have both comp and rebound individually adjusted, you can fine tune them to work together-just make one adjustment at a time!
      • As a final test, when you have what you would consider your best setup, write it down, then go back and compare that to your initial baseline, riding both setups back to back. Might surprise you…….
      I could go into some advanced tuning topics about the interrelation of compression/rebound, high and low speed comp, tuning for extremes, etc. but we will save that for another newsletter. Take your time, tune by how your bike feels to you and have fun. You will be surprised by how much better you will ride with well adjusted suspension.
      You can learn more at www.stillwellperformance.com
      KEEP IT PINNED!!!!
      Alan Stillwell

    • By Jo_nathan
      Selling the showa A kit off of my yz250. It comes with a set of like new x trig adjustable triple clamps. Have 4 rides on rebuild and overall in great shape. Few dings, no dents or leaks. Setup for a 165lb a rider. Work absolutely awesome! I got hurt and cant ride for a year so I'm selling off some of my parts. 
    • By Kim Franz
      lookin to upgrade my suspension on my 06 cr250, curious whats possible with some work.
    • By tplayer100
      Currently have a 2000 drz400s work stock suspension. From my understanding this is the worst suspension the drz ever came with without even rebound damping adjustment. Therefore I'm looking for a upgrade. I'm seeing three approaches to take. First being a newer year s model suspension with dampening adjustment. A SM model USD forks and triple tree or some USD forks and triple tree from a rmz. So if you were going to upgrade what direction would you go. I currently ride off-road mostly but I do have some 17s for on road with as well so have to keep that in mind. Thanks