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New Guy With A Question

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Yes I know it's bad just to turn up and ask straight away, so here is a little about me I am currently riding a Kawasaki ZX12 during the good weather and have just got an XR250-R3 for the winter time and general messing about on, loving it to bits as haven't been off-road since 1983...scarey.

DSC05028.jpg

And my big baby.

sun2.jpg

Anyway back to the question, can I remove the swinging arm bolt and grease it without having to remove anything ?, looking at the horror stories on here I wouldn't mind checking mine.

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Welcome

If you undo the nut on the swingarm bolt so its level with the end of the bolt (to protect the threads on the bolt) you get it moving with a wide drift and a BIG hammer, once moving remove the nut and hit the bolt through with something like a 3/8 extension bar. The bar will hold everything in place until you refit the cleaned and greased bolt.

You don't need to remove anything else, also penetrating oil won't reach where the bolt might be seized IMO, which will either be in the rear crankcase mount, or the collars that the swingarm bearings run on.

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I did mine the other day. Just put it on a stand so the rear tire is just lightly resting on the ground. Then you can remove the bolt and not have to disconnect anything else and everything will stay lined up.

My 03's bolt came right out with no problems or excessive beating. I just used a socket extension.

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I would do re-grease all the linkage, that way it is just piece of mind that it is done and you know what condition it is in. But thats just me

Congrats on the new bike

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Cheers guys that's just what I wanted to know, hoping mine isn't seized of course, got a stand of fleabay but hasn't arrived yet so might be down to using trolley jack. Will let you know what I find :moon:.

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More crafty with metal, here is my rear stand for the ZX12.

stand1.jpg

Only paid a few quid for the 1 on fleabay £20 so not really that bothered about making 1 :moon:.

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My god that was tight coming out, my plan of attack was as follows....

Slackened nut about 2 turns

Sprayed with penetrating fluid where the links meet the pin.

Tried using socket to turn pin....no luck well solid.

Moved onto larger tube and managed to get pin to move slightly clockwise then anti-clockwise....good sign.

More fluid

Using correct size socket, 1/2" extension & lump hammer whacked the pin nut which has a flange on it till the pin started to move inwards.

More fluid and back onto the socket...more movement.

Eventually it came out and doesn't look to bad after a clean up, slight pitting in the middle section which I guess could contribute towards the tightness.

Cleaned the pin and now wondering what to clean the swinging arm bushes with etc ?, maybe wooden dowl with fine wire wool on ?.

Once this is clean was thinking about using copper slip to prevent future seizing but open to suggestions ?.

Glad I removed it as don't think it has been ever taken out before, knackered the end of the 1/2" extension but will keep it just for this job.

I can see why these become impossible to remove, my thoughts were to try pipe freezing spray down the centre if it didn't come out, I am sure that would have helped.

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Good to see you got it out with no major surgery involved. Mine was lightly rusting and pitting in the middle too so I guess its a good thing we got them licked before they caused problems :moon:

You can see the pictures of mine here :

https://thumpertalk.com/forum/showpost.php?p=8929727&postcount=24

I am gonna do the rear shock linkage next then both my wheel axles.

Look at this cool mod prwler did to his bolt , he put a grease fitting in one end.

https://thumpertalk.com/forum/showpost.php?p=8945703&postcount=20

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Cheers Root, I saw the 1 thread before starting think it was this that made my mind up to remove it :moon:. I'm not sure there is enough clearance in the motor section for any grease to get to ?. Sounds a good way to lube the swinging arm bearings though.

where would you suggest the rust mainly comes from ?, I would have thought the shaft being steel and the engine alloy that there would be the normal aluminium oxidation problems to having dissimilar metals in contact with each other, I could image this making the pin seize in solid but mine has rust present. Feeling it the centre section is the area where it appears tighest also once this seemed to get past this point the pin came out much easier. Need to find something or some way to keep this area free from seizing rather than anywhere else.

I like the grease nipple idea a lot but might be better with a series of small grouves machine around the diameter of the pin to allow the grease to spread about ?.

Kind of like the opposite to this

ucaiddk1.jpg

Friend works in a toolroom so might pop it around to him to add some.

Needs to go back in today for the weekends playing, running out of time as a lot of places closing soon for Xmas.

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I bet putting a cork screw grove about 1/16th of an inch into it would help spread the grease out. I am wondering if putting holes in it and a grove would weaken it much.

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I have just dropped the pin back in with my hand, smeared it with copper slip and without any effort and still just sitting there on the side stand it slid in. will check it every 6 months or so :moon:.

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