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CR250 Damaged oil check hole.

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Hey guys,

I have a bit of a wee problem with my '07 CR250R, we got to do our first oil change as it's a new (second-hand) bike, and when we removed the oil "check" bolt, the threads from the actual hole themselves came out with the bolt.

Obviously the previous owner overtightened them nicely, and now I am left with a bit of an issue.

Anyone have any advice on how to proceed ?

I'd really like to not spend TOO much money but I wouldn't have chose MX as a hobby if I didn't resign myself to the fact that you HAVE to spend some money.

I don't have much experience but I am fairly good with tools etc and I want to learn to work on my own bike. I had a friend suggest a "Heli-coil" ?

Just to clear it up it's the oil check bolt, not the drain bolt.

Thanks guys,

Kaz.

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Thanks guys,

I got a 1/4 inch drill bit and a tap and I'm gonna pull the cover off and tap it out.

Anything in particular I should be aware of ?

This will be my first time pulling anything more than seats and guards off my bike, as I've had it 2 months and the bike before that was an '84 XR500 that only got worked on two or three times in my lifetime haha.

I have a copy of the factory manual with exploded diagrams etc, so I will mostly be following that.

Thanks again,

Kaz.

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-You Will have to drain your coolant.

-Remove the waterpump cover, this will, make it easier to line up the impeller gear when putting the case back on.

-Remove the rear brake lever

-Remove the Kickstarter

-Remove the case.

You will need the 2 waterpump gaskets, and you will need a right side case gasket.

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While you have the case off you mise well check the clutch plates and basket for grooves. You can measure and deglaze the pads by using an emery cloth and lapping them lightly on a level surface. If you have grooves in your basket you can temporarily fix it by filing them evenly. You're best bet if to purchase a billet basket.

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I wouldn't bother taking off the right cover to fix that. I'd come up with something to just seal it up (JB Weld the bolt in there or something). This is another example of why it's better just to measure out the correct amount of oil and pour it in.

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I agree with you HRc, but It is quick assurance to check the oil level in case a seal is bad or something and you are burning/losing some oil. I change my oil every 2-3 rides so I never really use it to check oil but I think its better to have a stripped oil check bolt than a seized motor?

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Thanks for all the info guys.

I am considering just getting some loctite or similar substance (it's kinda like JB weld but with enough strength and a socket set you can crack it) to seal the bolt up temporarily until I can get some gaskets and do the job properly.

The downside is I am worried some of the threads that broke off might be inside, but am all but positive it would only be a shaving or two if that.

I'm not really keen on breaking anything majorly so if there's no way to flush it with old clean oil maybe ? (I save my oil in bottles to take to recycling plants)

I change my oil nearly two times a week because I ride about 5 hours mon-fri, change it fri night, and then ride 5-10 hours sat/sun, and then change it again sun night.

I always measure my oil perfectly to the manual's specs (650ml for oil change) and use fully synthetic 10W-40 oil, and other than when the threads broke, I've had no oil leaks.

I clean and detail my bike after any major ride or at the latest at every oil change, so I can keep on eye out for any problems like oil leaks etc.

So what I am really getting around to I guess is how bad of an idea is it to loctite the bolt in for maybe 2 weeks, and flush the transmission with the salvaged oil, or even clean oil, once or twice before riding like that ?

Would that kind of flush get the shavings out ?

How badly would one or two tiny thread shavings cause damage if not ?

Thanks for answering all my questions guys,

I love this bike like my baby haha.

Kaz.

Edit: Oil is not expensive for me, $8 a litre for the fully synthetic brand I use (Valvoline).

Edited by Kazuroka
Details.

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I wouldn't worry about if you think there are some small particles of thread inside. The aluminum is way to soft, and will get ground up my the gears if anything. Plus you said most of it came out with the bolt :moon: I wouldn't hurt to flush and change the oil anyhow.

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Thanks,

Looks like a small amount of temporary threadlocker and an oil flush is the way to go for this week, and a new gasket kit and the helicoil goes in next week when I can afford it. :moon:

Just out of curiosity, I assume the gearbox oil isn't under TOO much pressure if you use the right amount, so a threadlock bolt isn't likely to shoot out at any point ? :cheers:

Thanks all for the quick and detailed answers, So far thumpertalk has been the best thing I ever joined.

Kaz.

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