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Remove rear linkage bearings ... 08 450


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I'm in the process of replacing all the swingarm, linkage, and steering head bearings on my YZ.

I have been able to remove all the old bearings except for those in the rear linkage connecting rod. All others, I've pressed through from one side to the other.

It appears those in the connecting rod need to be pulled out from the same side they are installed on. Is this true? Any advice on accomplishing this?

Thanks in advance.

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I'm in the process of replacing all the swingarm, linkage, and steering head bearings on my YZ.

I have been able to remove all the old bearings except for those in the rear linkage connecting rod. All others, I've pressed through from one side to the other.

It appears those in the connecting rod need to be pulled out from the same side they are installed on. Is this true? Any advice on accomplishing this?

Thanks in advance.

I had the same problem on my 07 WR. I tried lot's of heat with the torch, pentrating oil and I use a press. All to no avail. I ended up cleaning and repacking the bearings as I didn't feel like destroying my connecting rod and the bearings could still live a while longer.

I am starting to think like you that next time I should try pulling them out with a blind bearing puller.....

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Thanks for the input guys...I just took another shot at it...and failed. Either there is an additional sleeve that sits between the bearings or they really can only come out the way they went in. There's definitely something in there between the bearings.

I put enough pressure on it to snap the 3/8" all-thread that I was using as a press.

I'm pretty much at the point of no return. I've banged them around enough that I wouldn't want to leave them in there. I think I'll need to take it somewhere to get it done unless I can find a blind bearing puller somewhere locally.

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Are you able to post some pics of the internals. I find it odd that yamaha would make it so hard to remove the bearings by having them come out only the one way.

By the way the 3/8 all thread might not cut it. I use a large vice with a bar on the handle

and can not budge some of these. So what I do then is apply as much pressure as I can and heat around the bearing. It may take a while, but you will hear a crack as the bearing shifts. Scares me every time. You may have to repeat the procedure as you go along. Penertrating oil dosn't go astray as well.

I have done many con-arms this way but none on the newer gen yz450's, so don't no the internal diameters.

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Try punching them to the outside. I have done this with seated bearings by removing the bearing needles on both bearings, and inserting the collar back inside, but on an angle, so it catches on the second bearing. Then use a suitable punch or device tapped back in firmly from the other side to wedge the collar in place against the bearing. Then you can tap the collar to push the bearing out. Just be careful not to do any damage to the connecting rod and I assume you are replacing the collar. It's a while since I've done a connecting rod, but I have used this method on either the connecting rod or relay arm.

Edited by TonyR
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OK...wow...success! I stopped by the local Harbor Freight store and picked up a blind hole bearing puller kit for $30. I put the connecting rod in a vice, attached the puller with the right sized attachment, heated it up with a torch, then started pounding on it with the puller. It took some significant effort, but I got both sides out.

With a proper press, the bearings could have been pushed out one side. There is a spacer/collar that sits between the bearings, that would have to be pushed out too. Given how stuck the bearings were, I suspect that the collar would have been a real bear to get out of there.

Thanks for all the info/encouragement.

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  • 4 years later...

This is a bit late, but it might help someone.  I swore a lot to get this far....

I hammered two slots in the one bearing race to allow me a bit of extra space to slot in a washer as big as possible, i.e about as big as the centre shaft, let this washer drop to the other end and it'll lay flat on the outside edge of the untouched bearing.  Then I pressed against the washer with a C-clamp, (hammering is not so effective), pushing on a wide socket and extension...with a big socket on the outside of course to accept the exiting bearing.

Good luck.... ?

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