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Picked up a 1995 KX250 dirty bike

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And it sho is dirty.

I finally found a message board that has threads!!!

My friend owed me money, so I decided to take it off his hands (before he ruins it) and settle our debt (cause he's never gona pay me my 700 dollars back anyways).

I'm in the process of taking it apart to clean, paint and oil it. When I went to check the air filter, I found that it didn't have one anymore (it disintegrated and was sucked into the engine at some point in time). That didn't stop my dim-witted friend from riding it in the sugar sand for a few days.

The oil was black too.

So now I have ~300 dollars worth of parts on the way from bike bandit. Like jets, oil plug, air filter, chain rollers, hand grips, etc...

I pulled the exhaust off and there isn't too much damage to the cylinder or piston from what I saw. The leak down isn't bad at all either. So i'm surprised.

I have to attack the carb with a garden hose and some brake cleaner this weekend. The airbox is caked with goo.

Front forks are leaking, but will get to that in a few weeks.

I'm thinking about painting the frame silver, like a nice single stage. I'd sand blast it down first of course. Might just start with the rear frame section and see how it turns out.

I have this pro circuit exhaust pipe, but it looks like it necks down smaller than the stock pipe. Is this common with these pipes? Or should I cut out that small section and redo it with new metal? (its the section right before the tailpipe coupling)

:moon: <---i'm on crutches atm. lol

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I've been in that position before with a friend ownign me money, you gotta take what you can get, I think I got some subwoofers and other crap...

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Am I guessing correctly when I think I can go to an auto paint shop and give them the vin number off my bike to get a paint code for green paint?

no, you cant. It's proprietary of kawasaki.

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Wow, I got a 1995 KX250 for $600 and it was in amazing shape compared, guess I got a nice deal. Only thing I needed to do with it was put in a new plug and replace the coil, previous owner could barely get it started and think that's why I got it cheap. Ended up selling it to my brother who screwed it up.

Anyhow good luck, my 95 KDX200 was in the same boat ($550 buy), maybe worse and I put a lot of money and time into it to get it back into shape... love it to death now.

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I have this pro circuit exhaust pipe, but it looks like it necks down smaller than the stock pipe. Is this common with these pipes? Or should I cut out that small section and redo it with new metal? (its the section right before the tailpipe coupling)

:moon: <---i'm on crutches atm. lol

By your description that sounds normal. That´s how PC get the engine to run differently with their fancy pipe...

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Just called color-rite and they want ~200 dollars for enough material to make 1 quart of paint with seperate stage clear. lmao

There's gota be another source.

Or i'm gona paint it ford silver single stage. :moon:

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Colorite is a complete ripoff. I bet they sell used MX parts on Ebay too. :cheers:

You can bring the frame to a PPG dealer and they can use their electronic color thingamajig to mix up some paint.

Someone posted a rattle can green here very close to Kawi green. You just have to search this forum for it.

I'm lucky enough to still have some PJ1 leftover. My ultimate find though was 3 cans of unused PJ1 Flo Green. I'm saving those for my Splitfire replica (if I can ever find someone to make the graphics for me) :moon:

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i do believe it is grabber green by dupli color that Jeekinz is referring too.Kawie

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Yep, she's in a good home now, gettin' a make-over.

The only thing bad about rattle can paint is it ain't fuel proof.

There are a few fuel proof hobby paints that can withstand 30% nitro, but don't match too well.

I have a nice hvlp gun and can spray car paints no problem.

Probably gota commit to a color and not try to match anything.

Green is green I guess. Just gota get close.

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Welp, I got a bunch of new parts...

clutch lever, chain rollers, air filter, carb jets....

Fixed a bunch of stuff....

broken exhaust muffler baffle, missing bolts, adjustments here and there....

I got to ride it for 5 minutes tonight!

She's got some awesome bottom end torque. Its about 35 degrees here, so I didn't feel like banging through all the gears, though she has some power.

I get back to my garage and the front shock is leaking, rear shock is leaking, and the engine case is leaking from the case gasket by the right rear swing arm mount.

Other than that, everything seems ok. :moon:

I want to try and fix these last problems myself. I'm guessing it shouldn't be much money for a few seals and gaskets, just a lot of labor.

I know I probably need a manual at this point, but i'm asking a quick question about the case gasket.

Do I need to pull the motor completely out and lay it on the side to change this gasket, or will all the transmission shafts come flying out if I pull the side of the case off with the bike upright? Or maybe I can lay the bike down in my garage and do it like that. Need input please.....

The rear shock... I've taken one apart before for my old RM125 and am pretty sure I can do it again on this one, I just need to know where to buy the seals/parts. Need links please......

Front shocks I can rebuild if I know where to buy parts from.

Thanks for listening/reading.

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I decided to take the clutch cover and right side cover off to change the gasket myself.

All the 8mm bolts came out just fine.

I got to the waterpump, popped it off and the impeller was laying at the bottom of the housing along with the retaining bolt (half of it anyway).

The other half of the bolt is broke off inside the waterpump drive shaft.

The waterpump drive shaft bearing is very tight to turn and needs to be replaced, along with the seal. I don't know if I can get away with using the waterpump drive shaft again. Its kinda blued and i'm just not sure it'll be a snug enough fit in the new bearing.

Anybody got any micrometer specs of what the shaft should be? I could use them please.

The oil leak was what I hoped it was. Someone put the gasket on wrong and it slipped inside the case, causing my oil leak by the swingarm.

The clutch basket looks minty fresh, so I have that going for me.

Shouldn't cost that much for these parts. I'm actually kinda happy.

Do you know what the odds are for finding (more like stumbling upon) this kind of problem (waterpump being broken) before catastrophic damage occurred? If I would've rode it again I'm sure it would've locked up and/or thrown a piston or two. :ride:

holy cow...

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her you go....

http://old.racetech.com/evalving/english/Srchpr.asp?bikeid=701&manufacture=Kawasaki&model=KX250&year=1995&TABLEINFO=dirt&langname=english

have you pulled the pipe to take a peak at the piston/ cylinder...that would be the first concern given your no filter/ he ran it in the sugar sand comment...paint is nice but reliable is better.

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her you go....

http://old.racetech.com/evalving/english/Srchpr.asp?bikeid=701&manufacture=Kawasaki&model=KX250&year=1995&TABLEINFO=dirt&langname=english

have you pulled the pipe to take a peak at the piston/ cylinder...that would be the first concern given your no filter/ he ran it in the sugar sand comment...paint is nice but reliable is better.

Thanks for the link!

Yes, I pulled the pipe and inspected inside already.

It's slightly scratched, nothing deep, just discolored around the port area.

Leakdown is still good.

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