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650R starting problems after uncork

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I finally uncorked my 06 650r yesterday, I went with the 175 main, 68s, and drilled out my tip. Everything came apart and went back together just fine.

But now when I try to start it, it will fire, but wont run. Tried it on all three choke settings. I fiddled with the idle screw, but I cant remember if its setup like a standard adjuster (righty tighty = more idle??)

Its cold outside, so I dont know if thats a factor. I have never started at temps less than 70F. But I am also thinking that maybe the pilot screw needs adjusting.

Any suggestions?

Thanks

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Try bump starting it? You can really get way out of whack on the idle adjustment and it sucks to keep guessing and kicking it over. If you can bump start it and keep it running try adjusting it from there maybe?

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You are going to love this bike uncorked the smile will be unremovable from your face. Good luck and I amsure it is something simple createing your starting issue.

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clock wise is turning the idle up..give it a couple twist up and she'll fire.......lots more air now, just need alittle more fuel

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You are still running lean. I suggest 178 MJ, 70 pilot, #3 or 4 position from top of needle. Did you replace or open up the "nascar style" intake?

Double check your jets are in there tight and the plastic sleeve (splash guard) is installed properly in the carburetor.

After it idles, turn the fuel screw in slowly until the rpm drops, then turn the fuel screw out until it starts to drop again. The setting is in the middle of these (peak rpm at idle).

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how do we know he is lean without knowing his details? elevation, temp, plug chop, ect...

get her fired , ride it and read your plug

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how do we know he is lean without knowing his details? elevation, temp, plug chop, ect...

get her fired , ride it and read your plug

Trust me when I tell you. 175 main and 68 pilot is lean on the 650R unless you are at nosebleed elevations.

I was running 180 main, 72 pilot, #4 on the clip. My bike ran fine all the way up to 9,000+ ft. The rich pilot makes for an easy starting pig as well.

These bikes also run cooler with richer jetting. Your HP will drop slightly with the richer jetting. 3hp difference on the dyno from a 178 main at 46hp, to a 180 main at 43 hp.

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Trust me when I tell you. 175 main and 68 pilot is lean on the 650R unless you are at nosebleed elevations.

I was running 180 main, 72 pilot, #4 on the clip. My bike ran fine all the way up to 9,000+ ft. The rich pilot makes for an easy starting pig as well.

These bikes also run cooler with richer jetting. Your HP will drop slightly with the richer jetting. 3hp difference on the dyno from a 178 main at 46hp, to a 180 main at 43 hp.

Sorry for not filling that in. I am at sea level, or within 10 ft of it. Temps generally between 70-100 most of the year.

Messed with the idle screw, but I still cant get it to start. It fires, and acts like she wants to start, but wont. Sometimes I smell gas if that makes a difference.

I have the 175 main, 68s pilot, B53e needle.

Another question, which way does the needle seat go in, long part towards the needle or short part?

thanks for your help

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Sorry for not filling that in. I am at sea level, or within 10 ft of it. Temps generally between 70-100 most of the year.

Messed with the idle screw, but I still cant get it to start. It fires, and acts like she wants to start, but wont. Sometimes I smell gas if that makes a difference.

I have the 175 main, 68s pilot, B53e needle.

Another question, which way does the needle seat go in, long part towards the needle or short part?

thanks for your help

u shud be able to get it run'n w/ that jetting :smirk:

w/ all of these attempts to start i wud expect an extream smell of unburnt fuel...maybe a fuel flow or float problem :cheers:

i wud remove the carb and check & clean everything (jets, needle, float level, hoses, check for proper assembly, etc...). set the fuel screw 2 turns out. w/ the carb off u can adjust the idle visually where the slide is just a few mm open and increase it from there when attempting to start it.

use the "starting drill" and use the clearing method after a few failed attempts to start...grab'n the front brake helps w/ not twisting the throttle when starting :moon:

:smirk:

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u shud be able to get it run'n w/ that jetting :smirk:

w/ all of these attempts to start i wud expect an extream smell of unburnt fuel...maybe a fuel flow or float problem :cheers:

i wud remove the carb and check & clean everything (jets, needle, float level, hoses, check for proper assembly, etc...). set the fuel screw 2 turns out. w/ the carb off u can adjust the idle visually where the slide is just a few mm open and increase it from there when attempting to start it.

use the "starting drill" and use the clearing method after a few failed attempts to start...grab'n the front brake helps w/ not twisting the throttle when starting :moon:

:smirk:

The bike has super low hours, less than 20. Everything in the carb was squeaky clean. I assume that 2 turns out means to tighten the screw all the way in, then back it out two turns?

Should i do anything to the pilot screw adjustment?

Thanks for your help!

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The bike has super low hours, less than 20. Everything in the carb was squeaky clean. I assume that 2 turns out means to tighten the screw all the way in, then back it out two turns?

Should i do anything to the pilot screw adjustment?

Thanks for your help!

there is no "pilot screw" only external adjustments are the fuel screw on the upper right side of the bowl and the idle adjuster thumb screw on the left...

fuel screw 2 turns out(CCW) from lightly seated (full CW).

u shud be starting it cold w/ the choke on and no throttle until it fires.

:moon:

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When my bike was new, it did the same thing once after I had let it sit for a couple of weeks. I had read about how easy they are to flood and assumed that I had done that when it wouldn't start. Finally, out of desperation I took off the air filter and using a piece of fuel line like a soda straw I injected a teaspoon of gas right into the back of the carb. It started right up first kick although I had to repeat the process twice before it would continue running. I know it sounds crazy, but one of my old bikes had what was called a "tickler" that basically did the same thing. I'd try that before I ripped everything apart again.

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I was out of town for the weekend, but tonight I am going to get the piggy running, here is my plan of attack. I will keep going down the list till it starts

1. Try to push/bump start it, get it running, then set the idle

2. Straw gas directly into the carb through the airbox.

3. Take the carb back off, make sure everything looks right, adjust the idle screw visually.

4. Get pissed, and throw wrenches across the garage, then limp back into the house with my sore ass starting leg...

Any other suggestions?

Thanks

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I was out of town for the weekend, but tonight I am going to get the piggy running, here is my plan of attack. I will keep going down the list till it starts

1. Try to push/bump start it, get it running, then set the idle

2. Straw gas directly into the carb through the airbox.

3. Take the carb back off, make sure everything looks right, adjust the idle screw visually.

4. Get pissed, and throw wrenches across the garage, then limp back into the house with my sore ass starting leg...

Any other suggestions?

Thanks

One really good suggestion is the next time you have her running, put it on a sidestand, shut off fuel, and let it run out of gas.

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One really good suggestion is the next time you have her running, put it on a sidestand, shut off fuel, and let it run out of gas.

Yeah, I always do that. Do you think this could have something todo with it not starting after rejetting?

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Yeah, I always do that. Do you think this could have something todo with it not starting after rejetting?

YES!! I remember mine not starting......

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