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Deglazing and Honing Cylinder


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Hey guys my 06 YZ250 is due a top end soon and basically i've heard the best way to deglaze the cylinder is to use a hone, basically i'd like to know which is the best one for me to get be it a flex brush hone or a ball hone? what grit etc? Also after the deglaze does it provide the crosshatch on the cylinder? (i assume it would). And is it a fairly simple process? Any info appreciated :moon:

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  • 3 weeks later...
don't quote me, but think you might find that you don't hone nikasil barrels as you may wear thru to the steel sleeve.

cheers

eric

Nikasil is plated onto the aluminum bore, it is very hard and long wearing so de glazing and new rings is usually all that is needed. Use the wrong hone or hone improperly and you will damage the nikasil, repair or replacement is expesive.

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Can someone put me onto a link that shows me exactly wht i need?

http://www.eric-gorr.com/ and read through the two stroke rebuild.

Clean clean clean the bike before cylinder removal.

Be sure to use the tool to unbolt/remove the power valve or you will beak parts.

Note the cylinder designation and put the right size piston back in it. Wright down the letter on the cylinder for future use it will wash off.

Clean cylinder with soap and water and a new scotch brite pad - green one.

A hone can only take away and will not bring anything back. If the x hatches are still there do not use a hone. If not there send cylinder out for resealing.

Oven cleaner on a really nasty cylinder will remove the yuck and oil glaze but no longer than 20 min on the cylinder then use soap and water as described above.

Coat everything will two stroke oil and drop some drops in the crank bearing holes and lower rod bearings

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heh okay, now I'm curious... How many of you deglaze your cylinder before putting in new rings? I never do. Out with the old, in with the new, and get to riding again...

I don't hone... I don't scotchbrite... I'm talking about nikasil cylinders.

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heh okay, now I'm curious... How many of you deglaze your cylinder before putting in new rings? I never do. Out with the old, in with the new, and get to riding again...

I don't hone... I don't scotchbrite... I'm talking about nikasil cylinders.

I usually always do pisron and rings. How many hours do you just do rings? How many rings before you do piston?

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heh okay, now I'm curious... How many of you deglaze your cylinder before putting in new rings? I never do. Out with the old, in with the new, and get to riding again...

I don't hone... I don't scotchbrite... I'm talking about nikasil cylinders.

I usually always do pisron and rings. How many hours do you just do rings? How many rings before you do piston?

I'm sorry, I should have phrased that better. I always replace the piston and rings at the same time.

When I was younger, and driven by an over abundance of testosterone, I used to replace rings alone once, before I replaced piston and rings. I 'think' it was somewhere around 12 hours of ride time to a ring change for me back then? Could be remembering wrong... long time ago.

These days, I have no idea how many hours I get. Usually change piston and rings in the middle of the summer, and again at the end. (when I let it go past mid summer... I usually end up regretting it) 'Course I ride a lot less than I did back then, and I ride like a little girl now...

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Hey guys my 06 YZ250 is due a top end soon and basically i've heard the best way to deglaze the cylinder is to use a hone, basically i'd like to know which is the best one for me to get be it a flex brush hone or a ball hone? what grit etc? Also after the deglaze does it provide the crosshatch on the cylinder? (i assume it would). And is it a fairly simple process? Any info appreciated :ride:

Never use any kind of hone on a nikasil cylinder. This includes ball hones. They have been known to chip the plating around the ports.

Scotchbrite pads work OK in a pinch, but the right way to do it is to use the Cylinder brush. You can get them at Wiseco.com?

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but the right way to do it is to use the Cylinder brush. You can get them at Wiseco.com :ride:

Which IS a hone. A brush hone is the kindest to the port edges, but honestly after honing hundreds of 2 strokes with ball hones, I've never chipped a port. If you jam a ball hone that is too big into a cylinder, it could probably damage it but why would anyone do that?

Use a finer grit 280 or higher and clean it then clean it again , then clean it again, then clean it again.

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Never use any kind of hone on a nikasil cylinder. This includes ball hones. They have been known to chip the plating around the ports.

Scotchbrite pads work OK in a pinch, but the right way to do it is to use the Cylinder brush. You can get them at Wiseco.com :ride:

I just looked it up on their website:

Wiseco supplies honing brushes in multiple sizes to assist in your rebuild. These nylon soft hone brushes assure a proper ring seal in Cast Iron Sleeved Cylinders.

Also, unless I missed it, the service manual for the kx450f doesn't say anything about honing or 'deglazing'.

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I just looked it up on their website:

Wiseco supplies honing brushes in multiple sizes to assist in your rebuild. These nylon soft hone brushes assure a proper ring seal in Cast Iron Sleeved Cylinders.

Also, unless I missed it, the service manual for the kx450f doesn't say anything about honing or 'deglazing'.

PM TT member Wiseco. He is the one that actually told us not to use ball hones and highly recommended this product for all nikasil/plated cylinders.

I searched but couldn't find the thread that he 1st mentioned the brush. sorry.

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It is a know undisputable fact that a fine honing ensures better ring-seating, holds oil to lubricate pistonskirts/rings, and reduce galling/scuffing. Don't overthink it. Lightly hone the cylinder, clean it immaculately, and run it in hard. Recommending otherwise is misinformation.

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PM TT member Wiseco. He is the one that actually told us not to use ball hones and highly recommended this product for all nikasil/plated cylinders.

I searched but couldn't find the thread that he 1st mentioned the brush. sorry.

This one?:

https://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=587903

It is called "Deglaze"

The cylinder can build up a "Glaze" it will look like varnish. yellow to brown in color. You wil need to use a hone designed for Plated cylinders to break the glaze. Again only use or have someone use a hone specificaly designed for plated cylinders. The Nylon Soft Hone Brush is what you want.

The convential hone will put a much courser finish on the cylinder than needed. Most likely you will need to do nothing.

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Maybe this one?:

https://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=748113&page=4

Guys here is some info on the Wiseco brush hones. http://www.wiseco.com/Catalogs/Powersports/Accessories.pdf Open the link then go to page 4 of 7.

A brush hone is really just used to break the glaze for better ring seal when the cylinder bore is otherwise in good condition (meaning still straight, round, and within the bore size spec.) Ball hones are okay for cast iron, but we don't recommend them for Nikasil because of the risk of tearing up the Nikasil. I know many guys use ball hones even on Nikasil, but we recommend deglazing with the brush hones, or lightly deglazing with a rigid dimond hone. A rigid hone means an actual honing machine with stones that you find at a good dealership. Hope that helps guys!

Quote from the Wiseco link:

Plated Cylinders: (Includes nickel ceramic coatings (Nikasil), chrome, Electrofusion, and boron composite.) If the plated cylinder is in good condition, honing may not be necessary. If deglazing is necessary, DO NOT use a ball hone. Use a rigid or brush type diamond hone. Plated cylinders cannot be bored oversize without replating or resleeving.

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