200R Header Upgrade?

Where are you guys finding aftermarket headers for the XR200R? No problem finding arresters or slip-ons. Just can't find any complete systems listed on Powroll or FMF sites.

XRs Only sells a really nice stainless steel header and system. The Powroll CRF230F header is a redo of the XR200R header, it fits the head and cases but may need mods at the end to adapt it to the XR exhaust and/or frame.

Here is what I know about 200 exhausts: All theory says a small header keeps the gas velocity up and delivers the best power. Running the numbers for a stock XR200 yeilds a head pipe size of approximately 1" depending on the engine speed selected for tuning. This is very close to the stock pipe.

The aftermarket headers are bigger: The Powroll header is 1 1/2" OD and the XRs Only is 1 1/4" OD thru the U bend and then 1 3/8" OD to the end. I've run both on 200s with several different mufflers.


Thanks for the info. The only part number I could find at XR's Only is : XREH-8200

Is that the one?

Also, after reading your "Uncorking" post (good stuff, by the way), I still have a few questions...

What I've got: Rebuilt '87 200R, Megacycle midrange cam, Wiseco 66.5mm overbore, stock carb, R/D Springs, no porting

1) In your final opinion, theory aside, is the XR's Only header a good investment?

2) FMF, Supertrapp or ??? for muffler?

3) What about the midpipe?

I'm just looking for whatever little bit more power I can get.

Thanks again.

Don't remember the part number but the XRs Only site said plain steel on the one I ordered and it was SS.

I have a XRsOnly header on one bike, a Powroll on the other, and a friend used to have a 200 with stock header and a Supertrapp w/ quiet core. They all work but I think the XRs Only is close to the Powroll. As my post said I've been experimenting with exhaust system with lots of sixth gear drag races between bikes and the differences can be small enough to be masked by difference in gearing and/or rider weight.

My latest is the XRs Only header extended to 30" from the exhaust valve with 1 3/4" mid pipe to a Supertrapp ISD2 muffler. This is suppose to have the power of a 3" Supertrap but quieter, but others have commented that the ISD2 is not that quiet. The 3" Supertrapp with a Powroll pipe sure produces good power and crisp throttle response but is too noisy for my taste.

I didn't answer all of your questions: Powroll says their pipe and a 3" Supertrap with 8 discs is the best power for a 200 or 218, I ran that exhaust for years and really liked the performance but not the noise. Two years ago I installed a FMF Q from a CRF250; I had to fab a midpipe but much quieter and I like the sound.

I like the XRs Only header, well made and nice appearance but it will turn straw yellow from heat. I'm now installing a Supertrapp ISD2 from a XR400 and need to mod the mid pipe to suit the frame and head pipe. I'll do some subjective sound comparisons between the different mufflers and while I don't have a dyno I'll gear the two bikes the same and do some comparison tests.

Mid pipes are a PITA for several reasons: These exhaust pipes are 0.049" wall (18 gauge) and automotive headers use 16 gauge pipe. The header sizes are smaller than standard automotive so muffler shops don't have small enough tools. 18 gauge mandrel bends are available in SS which can be welded to mild steel but won't be a strong joint, but this is exhaust not structural.

Here is what i"m doing, perhaps some ideas that you can use. OnLine Metals.com has tubing in 0.049" wall, I bought a 12" length of 1 3/8" tubing for $4 to use as the first section of the mid pipe which will extend the header 4 5/8" to provide a tuned length of 30" from the exhaust valve. The XR400 mid pipe is basically a "S" but not the angles needed to suit the XR200. I found a local header fabrication shop with a foreman who is a dirt biker and bought a 1 3/4" mandrell bend for the midpipe, I will only use a 90 degree section so I'll eat the weight of a short length of 16 gauge. They will also provide a 45 degree cone to connect the 1 3/8" pipe to the 1 3/4" pipe, this will terminate the tuned length of the head pipe.

I forgot one other pipe option:

Yogi has a Big Gun header on his stroker XR200R, I don't remember if he has the Big Gun muffler. Not as quiet as stock but not too loud and the system seems to work well with his modded engine.


Thanks for the follow up answers.

Yeah, I've been thinking about the fit all day. I'm probably going to go with an XR's Only headpipe and an FMF Q muffler.

So you say that a midpipe section has to be fabbed to get the muffler and the headpipe together? Or did you just fab a section to get to the magic 30"?

EDIT: I have always hated the sound of Supertrapps.

The FMF and the ISD2 were for other models of bikes so the mid pipes had to be modded to fit the XR200R. So while I was at it I thought I would fuss with tuned length.

The FMF Q was for a CRF250 and had a 1 1/2" inlet & mid pipe, the ISD2 was from a XR400 and has a 1 3/4" inlet & mid pipe.

Got it. That makes sense.

Well, I went ahead called XR'sOnly and bought their complete system for the 200R. Its just money, right?

I'll post up some pics once it gets here.

Well, after a fair amount of frustration dealing with FedEx, I got my XR'sOnly system today:



However, the exhaust does NOT fit. I'm aware that a bit of fabrication was going to have to be done, but the guy at XR'sOnly did NOT tell me over the phone that the $239.00 muffler that comes with their "bolt-on" XR200R kit is actually for a CRF150F/CRF230. The headpipe is XR and fits fine, but the can is an absolute no-go:

Lower bracket not even close:


Upper bracket? The same story:


I do not want to fab up some hinky-looking diagonal brackets that try to connect two obviously mis-fit parts that'll snap the first time I dump the bike or loop it on a hill (which I do quite often, I'll admit).

And wouldn't you know that in trying to mount this mess I of course nicked the muffler and put a couple of scratches on the top. So it's mine. Unless somebody needs a brand-new muffler for their CRF....small nick in the pipe just below the can where my ratchet fell out of my pocket and hit it, some tiny scratches on the top, and its been called some rather dirty names in the past three or four hours.

So, how do the FMF pipes fit? I've seen them listed in retailers' catalogs as a direct fit for an '86-'02 XR, but I'm suddenly wary of taking any retailer at their word.

Nice looking system and that megaphone cone on the XRsOnly muffler should really help the tuning effect of the pipe. The length of the exhaust to the megaphone also looks the right length for tuning.

Here is a photo of my XRs Only headpipe:


Looks like it ends about the same place as yours.

Here is a pic on my headpipe and it has a step after the 180 bend, I didn't see that in yours. this pic also shows the mid pipe that I fabed to extend the head pipe to obtain 30" from the valve and then flare to 1 3/4" to the muffler. The frame bracket at the header end is from a stock mid pipe/muffler. The head pipe is stainless steel and the straw yellow color is heat induced.


The mount tabs on your mid pipe and muffler could be moved to suit your frame, I cut a mount off a stock pipe for my new mid pipe using a Dremel cut off wheel. If your system is stainless it can be TIG welded as long an inert gas is purged thru the inside to displace the oxygen, this will protect the back side of the weld.

Edited by chuck4788


Took your advice and just dremel'ed the tabs off and re-welded them to suit the XR mounts.


Looks like hell after all the welding and grinding but it fits:




The sound is good; not too loud with a good, deep note. Not wild about the looks but...whatever. We'll see what kind of performance gains I get after some of this snow and ice melts.

P.S. In addition to selling me a muffler for a totally different bike, XR'sOnly also sent the wrong sized exhaust clamp to mount it to the headpipe.


It may not have been easy, but you should be really proud of what you've done there!


not a pretty sight! the fit what fit,looks like id be sending that back if i wer told it was to fit,or you could do some cutting,adapting,cusing,fusing,fab work,but ive seen your imporvising skills not impossible.unless your up for that i would suggest retreat,regroup,wish i could tell ya exact fit upgrade.its not impossible but would require some welding equipment at least.

That will work,looks good and functional,my previous post was late or out of sinc.If your happy thats all that counts!

oh jeez

I ordered a FMF Powercore 4 for my bike, no header, and it bolted up just fine. I just slipped it on and bolted it up.

what year is your bike?


She's an '87. The year I graduated from high school no less...

Yeah, from what I could tell, the Powercore 4 is the only one that advertises a direct fit to the '86-'92 200R's.

Oh well. I'll just get an FMF after I wear this one out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By spezza-125
      Anyways so I got a 1985 xr200r RFVC, and I have heard that the oil really overheats and in some cases people have had their bike (Rarely) go up in flames, however I don't want to take any chances and I heard that there is a way to put on some sort of oil cooler... How do I do it??
    • By Yamiha
      I have a '01 XR200 and i was wondering it anyone could give me a top speed for it. Where i live its more 2 lane highways and things so i cant find a good straight to run it with a car in. Thanks
    • By Quick Draw
      I decided to compile a list of common modifications for the XR200 in hopes of eliminating some of the common questions asked on this forum. These modifications are intended to improve the overall performance of the bike, without sacrificing reliability. Feel free to suggest amendments or things to edit.
      The XR200 is an excellent offroad machine; however, it was for the most part obsolete about 20 years ago. The bike can still be accredited to having probably the best reliability of any full size bike out there. When properly setup and modified, the "little XR" can run with the modern big bikes, especially in the tight and nasty technical terrain.
      INTAKE: Remove the airbox snorkel on top of the airbox. It just takes a little prying and it's out. For $20-$40, you can get an aftermarket filter (UNI, TwinAir, No Toil), that will help increase airflow. Rejet one size up on the main and pilot.
      Here are the stock jetting specs to give you a basline:
      Stock jetting
      XR200 (not XR200R)
      main 102
      pilot 35
      Needle position 3rd groove
      Pilot screw initial setting 1 3/4 turns out
      XR200R (81-83 only)
      Main 138
      Pilot none
      Needle position 3rd grove
      Pilot screw initial setting 2 1/2 turns out
      XR200R (86 and later)
      Main 112 (86) 110 (87 and later)
      pilot 38 35(98 and later CA only)
      Needle position 3rd groove
      Pilot screw initial setting 1 1/8 turns out
      When these things are done, the bike will breath much better. This is the single greatest modification for a bike ridden at high altitude.
      Overall cost w/out filter: about $10 for jets; $20-$40 for the aftermarket filter
      ENGINE: The greatest improvement to the XR200R engine is a big bore kit. Here are the 2 most common kits: http://www.powroll.com/P_HONDA_XR200.htm
      Other options include porting and polishing the head, high compression pistons, hotter cams, etc. The more you do, the more reliability is reduced, but it is a trade off for power. Another option is an ’83 -’85 ATC200X cylinder head. It has a .5mm smaller bore, so it would need to be bored to 65.5mm, however, it has much larger cooling fins. For motors that are constantly being run in extreme temperatures, this is an option to consider.
      Overall cost: Varies by modification, expect to drop $200-$1000
      EXHAUST: There are several aftermarket exhausts on the market. These range from silencers to full systems. Prices range from $80-$500. Most aftermarket exhausts will give about the same improvement. The engine will rev quicker, which can be nice, but mostly they all just make the bike louder. For mild improvement to the stock system: grind the weld off of the inside of the header and remove the small cap held on by 2 8mm bolts at the exhaust tip.
      Overall cost: 0-$500
      SUSPENSION: This is a major weakness with '92-'02 XR200s. The first option for the forks is to give the springs more preload by adding a larger spacer on top of the springs. The second, most common option is to swap out the entire suspension. '84-'91 XR200 forks and rear shocks will bolt right up, and ‘81-’83 XR200R forks will with the corresponding triple clamps. '84-'89 CR125/250 front ends will bolt up to any XR200R with the addition of a spacer. This particular swap is more complicated, but also adds a disc brake and improves the bike tremendously when used in combination with an '84-'91 XR200 rear shock. See this thread for more info on CR front ends: http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/sho...1&parentpage=2 These parts frequently show up on Ebay and can be obtained very cheap. Also, a visit to racetech.com or similar suspension tuning company couldn't hurt with any setup. Emulators and progressive springs will get conventional forks nice and plush. Currently, XR250 rear shocks are in question as to what years will work; therefore, I do not recommend them at this point. Many people have them on their 200, however there is not a definitive answer for the years yet. Be sure to research before you buy.
      Overall cost: Generally less than $100; for Racetech tuning, expect to drop $200+.
      WHEELS: An 18" rear wheel from an '86-'89 XR250 will bolt right up. This can help because the 17" wheel spins too much sometimes, and tends to work its own spokes loose. There is also a much greater tire selection with the 18" rear wheel.
      Overall cost: Generally less than $100
      LIGHTING/DUAL SPORT: Lights can easily be added to the 200 by tying into a pink wire that just comes up under the tank, then loops right back down to the stator. This wire has no purpose, and was left behind in the wiring harness, because the non-American XR200s had lights, and Honda didn't pay to change the wiring harness or the stator. I have personally tested it up to 75 watts, but I wouldn't recommend going much higher. From there it is simply a matter of wiring it the way you want it. In any application you will need a 12v voltage regulator. I would be happy to assist with any questions on the wiring you may have, since I have redone mine several times to change things. Also, please visit this thread for some diagrams (about halfway down the page): http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=431097 Each wiring job is different, so it is difficult to write a generalized way to do it. For dual sporting, there are kits from Baja Designs and similar companies, or you can be creative and pull parts together yourself, and in result save lots of money. The first time I had lights on my bike, it only cost me $6. A speedometer cable can be attached to the speedometer port on the front brake hub, as long as you can find a way to mount the speedometer. TrailTech computers are the easy alternative to the manual speedometer.
      Overall cost: Dependent upon creativity. Baja Designs kit runs around $450
      Helpful XR200 Links:
      www-staff.lboro.ac.uk/~elvpc/papers/XR200.html (engine info)
      http://www.4strokes.com/tech/honda/lightup/ (adding lights)
      **I need more links for XR200 INFORMATION, NOT PRODUCT websites....Post them in this thread if you have them***
      Again, please feel free to suggest editing....I'm sure there are MANY things I forgot. This is just a baseline to get started.
    • By Footy
      I don't have photo access yet but lets see your 200's.
      My dad is planing on selling his 02 XR 200, but it's in need of a rear shock. I was told that these shocks arn't servicable, so we priced a new one out. The dealers asking over $400 for a new one. So my question is, what other bikes have a rear shock that will work on his 200? Thanks.